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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
26/10/2011 16:16:45
Hi Danny,
Don`t forget my offer to make a standard half cowl in GF if you want a quicker route.
 
My Spit is now all riveted and painted so will probably be finished after about another six months!
16/10/2011 23:29:00
Let me be the first to offer you my most sincere condolences Danny. Words cannot express what many scores of us out here must be thinking. The tips you have passed on may in some way make your loss into a massive gain in inspiration for your fellow builders.
 
Martin
16/09/2011 22:41:20
Having just sanded the excess cloth from the first fus side with 320 grit and partially flatted some of the covered area, the rest should just take minutes and loads of primer should not be necessary. This has made glassing a model very easy. The wing underside is now done and I found that peeling back a little of the ply at the centtre whilst the resin was still wet in order to do the other half had no ill effects.
 
Martin
16/09/2011 18:52:50
Wakey wakey all. Just removed the peel ply from the first fus side and am very pleased with the result, this being my first attempt at this method. I was even more tight fisted than Danny and only used 35ml of resin. Hardly any came through the ply and it was totally done with a 1/2" brush, not a credit card although I shall probably try that on the wing which I am just about to do. I increased the fairing size to near scale and the ply went on a doddle. 30 mins work with a pot life of 40 mins. I shall do the fiddly bits at the nose and fin later. The ply was ironed first with the setting on mine between silk and wool. It looks like it will require quite a lot of filler/primer prior to finishing but we shall see.
 
Danny, tried Ashtek but could not see what I want so will probably look for something else. Thanks anyway.
 
Martin
05/09/2011 22:27:36
Thanks Danny, I shall look them up.
 
Martin
05/09/2011 22:27:32
Thanks Danny, I shall look them up.
 
Martin
05/09/2011 21:25:03
Hi Danny, exactly what is the make and type of connector you have used? This looks to be a good idea which I could use a lot. Are they the same pins as servo plugs? If so I can easily get the female shells but the males only come in PCB header type from my suppliers. Where did you get them please?
My Spit . is coming along fine now, with the wing and tail surfaces ready for covering/glassing. Just a bit disappointed that the MHS version 1/4" fus bits are nowhere near the height above the wing fairing than that shown on the plan which makes sanding to shape a little difficult. The wing seems to be rather overweight for the size, probably due to the re-used Taiwanese tea chests that the ribs must have been cut from despite making as many lightening holes as possible. With my previous gripes about the plan this will be the last one that I shall buy from MHS. Looks like the choice of a 30cc petrol may have been a good idea. Making the tail/fin/elevators/rudder entirely from built up balsa should pay off as they are very light.
 
Martin
25/08/2011 22:23:58
Hi Danny, surely you are going to use an ally spinner, which can add a lot of weight? Why not try my way of casting lead into the nose of this as you cannot get it much further forward? Nats or bust tomorrow! Have you any of those generic stencils you mentioned which you could bring with you? I can usually be found in the bar!
 
Martin
21/08/2011 21:49:36
Hi Craig,
You can get digital scales with a hook from China on ebay for next to nothing.
 
Hi Danny,
With all those unnecessary spruce stringers on my Hurri I needed a huge forward shift of the cg and ended up casting, after very careful levelling, 1kg of lead into the nose of the spinner. This was secured with epoxy afterwards and has posed no problems whatsoever.
 
Martin
21/08/2011 00:09:57
PS
 
The Hurri was only turning 5600 on a 23x8 at GMAC but still flew OK. The problem was not overheating as such but a bit of debris in the carb.

Edited By Martin McIntosh on 21/08/2011 00:14:39

21/08/2011 00:03:53
Hope you sort this problem out soon. Now you see why I am going for a 30cc petrol. A bit of an overkill but with the Hurri experience I am keeping my fingers crossed. Will take you up on your offer of the generic lettering soon if that is OK.
 
Martin
Thread: New builder would like info please.
01/08/2011 23:34:53
Hi Gary, you have not said what you are building. If the fus sides are rounded off then generally there would be triangular or square section pieces of balsa along the length at each corner of the formers to allow for sanding: if left with square edges this would not be necessary. The centre section ribs should be angled inwards slightly to take account of the dihedral, this done before any sheeting of the wing. Any gap will be filled with epoxy when you glue the halves together. The learning curve for model building can be very long indeed and we all make mistakes but the end result is usually very satisfying.
 
Martin
Thread: Sorry, servo size question!
01/08/2011 23:08:24
I used GWS 9g servos on my Mini Jazz - no problem at all.
 
Martin
Thread: Dustys Spitfire sound effect module.
01/08/2011 00:20:21
A workmate was recently repairing an I-pod amplifying system which consisted of a couple of very tiny speakers fed into a circular, tubular horn. The lower frequency sounds were truly amazing and the whole assembly was around a large model fuselage cross section size. May be worth a look at.
 
Martin
31/07/2011 21:30:41
Yes. the sounders we use need to be almost totally exposed (a large hole) so I would have thought that using a wing skin as a sound plate should work although, not having a model sound unit myself, this is only theory. If in the above example you put the speaker cone against a window pane then the sound would be transmitted to the patio.
 
Martin

Edited By Martin McIntosh on 31/07/2011 21:34:35

31/07/2011 20:59:07
Hi Dusty,
If this is of any help I sometimes make boxes with about 25mm sounders inside to warn that a video camera mast is still extended wnen the vehicle it is installed in tries to move. I found that with these fitted to a 2mm thick box with multiple holes drilled gave just a squeak instead of a loud blast. The face of the sounder needs to be flush with the external surface to work, so the sound plate needs to be the surface of the model as I see it. A speaker inside say a cowl would do nothing as the outlet area would be minimal compared to the surface area of the speaker itself. A bit like trying to play music indoors and expecting your guests out on the patio to be able to hear it properly. Best of luck with your experiments as I think that we could eventually get some realistic sounds from electric models.
 
Martin
Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
28/07/2011 21:45:29
Hi Danny, yes I am going to Greenacres Fri. evening after a rapid repair of the Hurri canopy and a very bent oleo which I had not noticed. Van full of models again!
My Hurri uses just ali doors which are very successful being clamped with Terry clips flexibly held to the leg with Uhu Por which allows a lot of `give` when retracted and eliminates landing damage. See you and all of the other new and old friends there.
 
Martin
27/07/2011 23:08:53
On my 62" Spit I used ali to fit inside the wells and slightly larger acetate for the outer piece which `gives` a little in the retracted position. This also works reasonably well.
 
Martin
25/07/2011 21:26:32
Hi Danny,
Changing the subject again, do you intend to go to Greenacres this weekend? I shall be there if I can complete a rebuild of UPW`s canopy after a disasterous first attempt at a full flap landing with rather less than enough power applied.
 
Martin
19/07/2011 23:54:22
Thanks for all the info Danny, I shall now hopefully let you get on with yours while I do the same with mine.
 
Martin
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