Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Curare Build|
Perhaps you would be kind enough to remove my last post (with the phone No.).
I would love to have a chat at the Nats and can be found in a LWB hi top white Transit usually parked as near to the hangar bar as possible.
Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 23/08/2012 21:00:57
Phew, managed it at last but with no text! Thanks.
Vecchio, thanks for correcting me on that one. Good pics, yours or the original?
Andy, I would lengthen the u/c by 1 inch if using a 12 inch prop for a taildragger set up from a grass strip.
Also make the tailwheel leg a little longer than I did.
Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 23/08/2012 08:40:25
Well, I have managed to get quite a few pics in my photo albums, but the tutorial stops short of saying just how I am supposed to get them on this thread. Sorry, but you will just have to look at`my albums` until someone guides me in the right direction here. Hope that they clarify the brake build.
Any ideas anyone?
Martin Mc. (complete computer idiot)
Thanks for your reply. I must admit that I did not study the Magic too closely re the exhaust because having all my models and gear nicked after the 1979 WC`s I lost all interest in competition flying apart from one attempt with a model with a swan neck and top enclosed pipe which was not successful.
Hanno had a huge array of switches on the back of his Tx, presumably one for each maneouvre requiring the brakes, which was beyond the electronics knowhow of most of us. I only use them for landing at the moment and they are a real boon for getting down in a short space.
I remember Mike Bone well. Unfortunately, although he was an excellent flyer, mainly because he could rarely get his engines to start/run properly! He used HP`s at the time as I did. Please say hello from me if you are still in touch.
I scaled my model from the original RCM&E article. It was quite simple since everything including balsa sizes is in inches. I noted that the `Prototyp Miss Springfield` had lots of strips of Solarfilm added to the fin/rudder where he had obviously experimented with areas/ angles to get it just right but the plans show these bits in rather too exact inches. Seems to work though.
He used a Webra slider carb but wether it was a Webra motor I cannot remember, but do remember him saying most forcefully at the time `zis is ze best carburettor`.
I have some Webra RE 61 bits lying around if anyone wants them but will require new pistons/liners.
Mark, if you use a rear exhaust motor then it must exit via the swan neck where the noseleg used to be surely? Otherwise the pipe would have to go down the side of the fus. instead of underneath.
That is why mine had to be a tail dragger. Also I now have to fly from a grass patch which is not very kind to noselegs.
Since in the seventies I was at the top of the aerobatic tree I must also disagree about setting up the noseleg shorter than the mains. This was just not so. They were set level so that the wing incidence was at the flight angle on takeoff thus the model would fly off the ground rather than leap off which would have cost a lot of points. Landing was achieved by gently setting the main wheels down first then letting the model sink on to the nosewheel. Getting these right was worth megapoints.
The post by Mike was a reply to my previous one. The colour scheme is as described on the RCM&E plan, orange and green, so it must be mine!
The flap/brakes are a real pain to make and fit but well worth the effort. Note that mine are the 1977 version with six holes in each brake: not the one shown in the article. I have set them in to be in line with the TE since we all use two aileron sevos now and a strip linkage does not have to run through them. They are 1/3 up and 2/3 down as measured from the upper surface with the hingeline central. On operation there is is slight pitch up from level flight but if you do this in a turn it is not noticeable. Servo slow would sort this.
What ever you do, do not use piano wire in tubes to operate them as it will rust and sieze, use brass tubing only. Silver solder the horns to the tube if you can. The hinges are a couple of tinplate straps on each side soldered to the tubes, some holes drilled then epoxied to the flaps when you are absolutely sure that everything is in alignment.
The brake part can be made from GRP, ply or alloy. It needs to be set in to follow the wing contour.
Hope to get some pics. of this here if I can work out how to do it again.
I would make the gear 1" longer if going from grass as the prop. clearance is minimal (tail dragger only of course).
Finished my Curare about six weeks ago. If you wish to see it go to the GBRCAA forum, retro aerobatic comp. 2012, page 7 and a description on page 8. Built from scratch, foam surfaces and top deck.
|Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!|
OK thanks for that info. I normally use the Perkins ones on other models but do not recall seeing a Spit. shaped one, but then again I am not going to be too fussy after that nasty mishap. I shall get one of those.
I looked at the Mick Reeves one but it is 4" and I need 3 3/4". My backplate has survived but that is all.
The fire damage is limited to the g/f cowl paint so no problem.
I did not go to Greenacres because of the lousy weather, but I did not have the Laser at that time and the original petrol motor was unuseable.
Will wait until the Nats and see what I can find.
Well, its second flight won the local club class 1 scale event, but today was a tale of woes. To cut it short, it caught fire after a backfire on starting - luckily put out with the model cleaner spray, then the lousy Traplet pressed alloy spinner flew off when the centre fixing screw went straight through it.
Question. Does anyone know where I can get a 3 3/4 inch turned alloy Spifire spinner which will fit a Laser 180? I have an M10x1.5 to M5 adaptor but could make a different one as necessary.
Any help would be appreciated.
A few pics on my album now, with as yet unpainted cowl.
Very much. Thanks Ian.
Been very quiet on this thread for a long time but pleased to report that at last AR 213 had an uneventful maiden today.
It was finished by last Christmas but the RCG 30 gave so many vibration and overheating problems that I gave up with it when the engine mount itself broke.
Someone suggested a Laser so I raided the piggy bank and got a 180 last Friday. What a beautifull motor. A bit heavier than the petrol which is useful, starts first flick, it is quiet, hides completely inside the cowl, very little oily mess and idles a little over zero rpm.
This is only the second model I have ever built which I can honestly say flew perfectly with no clicks of trim.
Despite flat calm conditions I did not even have to use the flaps as it landed like a pussy cat.
I said that I would publish pics. when it was done but having problems as usual with that. I have some moments after the landing so will try to get them on my album.
Danny, been trying to contact you but cannot find you on this website.
|Thread: Percival Mew Gull|
I would go for a 20x8 assuming that the motor is 25cc and has lots of power, since the greater diameter will drop the revs and the lower pitch will slow the model down quite a lot. My 30cc RCG does 6500 to 7000 on a 19x8.
If this is of any help, the tail span on my o/d version is 29" and the 6swg torsion bars are 3.25" long. I have now moved the battery pack as far rearward as it will go and it now only just spins, let alone tip stall. Landings can be as slow as you like. Don`t know what Seagull have done to their model because the two I have built from scratch are a doddle to fly. (see my earlier posting).
|Thread: fuel prices! like OMG!|
Where do I get these cells locally for that price please? I also have numerous leccy models.
|Thread: Fuel proofing|
Thanks for your replies.
What is PolyC?
The Fighter Aces stuff looks to be a good bet to try but it would mean completely restocking. I would suspect that the Perkins stuff is rebranded Spektrum.
Problem is that I run mainly YS motors and 20% nitro is really a minimum. I also run sparkies which of course are kind to paint but the noise is excessive and not very scale like.
The acrylic I tried was from Halfords, the stuff you spray over metallic car paint. Bad reaction when I used it on top of their appliance white - it went sticky, hence the thread as I am having to strip and refinish the items.
|Thread: fuel prices! like OMG!|
I seem to remember posting a thread on similar lines some time ago when fuel prices suddenly shot up by 50%. They came down again rather rapidly soon afterwards. Surely the ingredients of model fuel cannot be governed by world oil prices as they are not pumped out of the ground. I think that the suppliers are just jumping on the bandwagon. Maybe we should all try to fly el*ctr*c for a couple of months to make them see sense. Down to my last can and ages to go till wings and wheels.
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