Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bit Cold Out--How much Flying are You Getting In|
What gets me is that there have been some really fabulous weekend flying days this year but on several occasions I have been the only one to attend out of 100 members. I prefer to fly with others around for safety reasons and, of course, we all like to show off. Why do people wait until the weather is abysmal and then moan about it?
And no, I don`t smell appart from glow fuel.
|Thread: Percival Mew Gull|
Hi Graham. I cannot find the plans and article from which it was built at the moment but seem to recall that it was a rehash in RCMW of the original RM plans. From photos of the variations of the original I found a version of GA-EXF which had the high canopy and long spats which make a much prettier aeroplane. The biggest drawback was that on a hard landing the overly long torsion bars on the u/c caused it to bend back and go through the wing. Halving the length of these sorted that.
You probably saw mine at the Greenacres `do` just before the RCM&E 50th. when I spotted you sneaking round taking photos!
|Thread: Pick a Plane 2011|
I tried last year (or was it the one before?) Ki61 Tony.
|Thread: Percival Mew Gull|
Sorry to read about the demise of yout Mew Gull Graham. I have been flying a RCMW plan built Chorus Gull for many seasons now and once the take-off is mastered it is a very easy to fly model with no vices. Landing is simple and it is very aerobatic with virtually no rudder coupling in four points. No problem with the stall. I realise that this is not quite the same as the one which you built. The c of g on mine is about 25-30% from the LE at the root.
Was thinking of getting the Seagull one myself since the Extra 300 and 2M Edge 540 which I have are excellent in all respects.
|Thread: Nijhuis 46" Spitfire|
Hi Iain, I used cheapo £9 retracts from ebay with a metal gear servo on each leg on the outboard side. Servo slow is used to give scale effect.
Further to my email reply, I make roundels from paper discs, each painted and then glued one on top of the other. Not that easy over a curved surface but is acceptable.
|Thread: Nihjuis Spitfire 62"|
Probably a bit late for you now but I have been flying mine for some time now on a YS63 with a 11.5x6 3 blader which gives far less power than the normal 12x7 2 blade but is just right. Lots of threads available on TN 63" Spit.
|Thread: Nijhuis 46" Spitfire|
Only just looked at this. You may well wish to look at the photos of mine with retracts and only OS26FS powered. 3lb 10oz as against the original 2lb 6oz with seven servos! Cannot get it to stall even with full up on high rate. The pics are mixed with the 63" version-which is a beast, typical Spit.
|Thread: The 2010 Special Issue|
Augusto, thanks for your support as I expected loads of brickbats especially from the contributors of whom I was perhaps a little too harshly critical. I agree that the rest of the magazine was excellent.
The Spit looks good but untill I wipe out either his 46" or 62" version it will have to wait.
Wonder what it would be like on a 26cc petrol? Would this perform as well as/better than a converted 150 four stroke? Any ideas anyone who has tried a motor of this size? I only have experience of a 50cc petrol in a 1:5 Hurri to go on regarding this type of engine.
Sorry to disagree with you all, but I was rather disappointed with some of the articles. I was particularly interested in the DIY decals and graphics but whilst the writer tells you what is possible he does not exactly tell you how to go about it. Googling stencil fonts produced plenty of adverts and a blank tutorial but no useful results. A visit to PC World found no waterslide paper and the recommended Coral Draw is £120!
Also the article on film covering appears to be totally biased towards Solarfilm polypropylene materials. I use these myself, namely Litespan. Solartex and silver Solarfilm (on scale models because it is paintable and relatively easy to apply), but there is scarce mention that polyester films are so much simpler to use, do not wrinkle in the sun nearly so much and withstand the rigours of time so much better.
I can just imagine a novice wrestling with polypropylene, sticking to itself whenever possible, chucking the whole lot into the bin and going back to the ARTF shop.
Another thing, why bother to make card patterns the size of your bits and bobs when you will require an overlap of at least 1" in order to pull the film around the workpiece?
If you want to know how to do it properly read the article in the J. Perkins catalogue.
|Thread: Taking Off And Landing|
I think that you are all missing the point. In, say, a scale or aerobatic competition it is best to stand in front of the judges for take off so that you are not distracted by having to move there later. A helper will be restraining the model as you do final engine checks.
At a typical club site you will be at the downwind end of the patch, not midway. An engine cut on opening up will leave your model in a vulnerable position but will be easily retrievable if you are standing behind it. Many flyers do not have the expertise to adjust carbs. so that the motor will idle on the ground for any length of time.
A trike u/c trainer will probably take off much by itself but something like a Spit. or a Mew Gull requires vision of both the direction and attitude at all times and this can only really be done from behind. The lift off point is probably largely governed by the length of your patch and your experience of the model.
Landing from a position at the downwind end allows a much better perception of the touchdown point allowing the full length for rolling to a stop and steering the model to the side if necessary.
|Thread: Nats 2010 - whos going, pics, video...|
Pity about the weather as this was probably the busiest Nats I have ever been to. Fri. pm was balmy but early Sat. pm it was washed out. The only things flying around on Sunday morning were tents, so I bugged out. Third consecutive attenance since I used to compete 30 odd years ago and it is generally much improved all round now (with the usual exception of the toilets). Still got the competetive spirit so may try the r/c scale next year since what I have seen of the flying of some of these excellently constructed models leaves a lot to be desired. Maybe my F3A experience will help. Fingers crossed!
|Thread: RCM&E 2010 Hobby Awards|
1. Slough R/C
3. Seagull Edge 540, 50cc size
4. Horizon Hobbies
|Thread: Video camera|
I have been trying to get live videos to a ground station dvr from a model but having tried various systems/power levels they all shut down when an IC motor is started, appart from a (legal) 10mW set-up which worked but had very limited range. I have heard that this is a common problem. Any ideas anyone? I cannot see why vibration should affect the 2.4gHz link.
|Thread: The 2009 RCM&E & Modelflying.co.uk awards|
3.Leeds Model Shop
|Thread: Hurricane mk 1 or 2|
Hi, if you are still looking I am building the Vailly aviation version but have had it scaled to 1/5th (96"). Can give you details if you email me.
|Thread: Parkzone Sukhoi Su-26m|
Hi Alan, after contacting the dealer who shall remain nameless but resides in Milton Keynes, they do not want to know. I shall send it back to Horizon Hobbies who have a good customer service dept. and if there is a problem they will no doubt sort it out. I may try `Gliders` but am awaiting a selection of props. from Hobby King.
Mine is a load of rubbish. Looking at other forums, you can easily get one with a bad motor. Even a simple loop requires a steep dive to pick up speed to achieve. Knife edge is out of the question even with the rudder linkage altered to give maximum deflection. I am off to the dealer tomorrow to get it replaced.
Why do they not use a modern brushless motor?
Also the very weak props. are hard to come by.
Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 05/12/2009 05:56:17
|Thread: Two vs three-blade props|
I used to fly my TN 62" Spit on a 12x7 APC with a YS63 but the landing speed was too high so I changed to a YS53 on a 13x5 wood which solved the problem but the power was well down. I changed back to the 63 but this time on a 11.5x6 narrow three blader. This gives way less revs than the 12x7, surprisingly, but it is enough and it now looks right and allows a slow landing.
About time that the prop manufacturers made a much greater range of three bladers.
|Thread: Small servo choice|
Hi, Spektrum S75`s have very long arms indeed so may be worth considering. MG 16R digi`s are great if they work - they either do or don`t. Esky micro digitals have plastic gears but work well as long as the control surface is fairly lightweight.
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