Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parkzone sukhoi - anyone got any info?|
Just don`t bother. See other postings.
|Thread: Parkzone sukhoi - it's here! what do u think?|
PS. May do a test report soon so that others do not make the same mistake of buying it for what it is supposed to be.
Hi, I bought one three weeks ago on the strength of the hype and reports of it performing just like a larger model. It is very disappointing and just the opposite.
The cg is miles too far forward and even with two M4 nuts taped to the rear fus. to correct it it just nosedives on four points or knife edge as if the rudder was going in the wrong direction, despite moving the linklage to give maximum deflection. Spins are very steep although stall turns are OK. Power is very lacking on the suppied battery and I broke the prop. on the third, very gentle landing.
The supplied equipment is very good value and when I wreck it I shall try to use it in something more sensible.
|Thread: Flycam One version 2|
Hi Simon, maybe I did not persevere enough with it and will try again.
|Thread: Show us your workshop!|
Some of these photos gladden my heart. I shall never need to tidy my shed ever again. Too ashamed to post a photo.
|Thread: 4 stroke fuel|
Re oil content. For what it is worth, YS fuel contains 23% synthetic. I run my `cooking` engines on Model Technics contest 10 which I believe has 17 or 18% oil including 2% castor. I also use a similar blend from Southern Modelcraft and have had no problems whatsoever, so I would say that you only require a high oil content for the more powerful motors, but would never use less than 17%. About time that this is stated on the container which I believe has been asked for before on this forum but as yet has not been responded to by the manufacturers. Wake up!
|Thread: Flycam One version 2|
I bought one a year ago but if I had known it was only 1.3 Mpixels I would not have bothered. Trying to erase multiple videos is well nigh impossible and loop record seems to be the only way to go. Tried it on the dashboard of my car for a while but the results were so poor I have not as yet bothered to put it in amodel. Very disappointed with the quality.
|Thread: Petrol engine|
I have been thinking of petrol power and Hurricane (was going to be the Nihuis one) lately but came across the FLT 52cc from Hobby City at only £105 (plus £6 vat and £14 to the godammed P.O. to collect it). The reviews on it are great and with a few minor flaws appears to live up to its name. 6900rpm on a Graupner 22x8 after only 1hr running in. 1/5 Hurri plan on the way. Does anyone have any experience of this motor before I commit myself to the project please?
|Thread: How powerful is it?|
All that the manufactures need to do is state the RPM for a range of props for a given battery voltage. Simple.
|Thread: Glow fuel price|
Thanks for your replies. When I posted this I did not realise that others had already taken up the subject. The price increase appears to be across the board so they cannot blame it on the temporary increase in the price of nitro. Perhaps we should boycott one supplier at a time for a month, starting with Model Technics?
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 07/06/2009 22:13:23
|Can anyone offer an explanation as to why glowfuel has increased in price by at least 50% recently? The ingredients are not based on mineral oil so are presumably not imported nor should they be affected in any way by the state of the £ Sterling. Are we just being taken for a ride again or is it because petrol motors are becoming more poplular so the retailers/wholesalers are trying to maintain their profits?|
|Thread: Corona 2.4 TX Module and RX|
|DW, must invest in a `decent` typing finger.|
|Took the plunge and bought the 8ch set up with an extra rx. Only flown each twice but could not fault them in fast electric models. Switching the Rx on and the Tx off first takes a little getting used to. Would be a little cagey about using them in something descent without a lot more testing though.|
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit|
The OS 52 would not even stand a chance unless you have a very long patch. Starting to think about the Hurri myself. Probably easier to fly.
|Hi Hugh, my last post seems to have gone awol or maybe under another heading, but I made my 62" Spit with built up tail and control surfaces. This still requires a bit of lead up front but I do have two metal gear retract servos behind the wing centre. Will fly fine on a YS 53 turning a 13x5 wood but is better on a YS 63 turning a 11.5 x6 three blader. Pleeeeease don`t use a two stroke!|
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis Spitfire|
|To Martin Roberts. Only just saw your post re tapered wing ribs. Get `Profili`, you can do tapered, eliptical, spars, anything, and very cheap. Hundreds of wing sections.|
Gave lots of info and some pics when this design was first published, but since people are having trouble with the c of g then here is my set up which still flies most weekends.
Motor: back to the YS63 on 11.5x6 three blade with plastic spinner.
Retracts: Inwood metal with a 60gm. metal gear servo on each behind the wing centre (to use with servo slows with unequal wheel retraction speed). 6swg legs plus dummy oleos. Doors fitted.
Tail and fin traditional built up balsa with 1/16 skin.
Elevator and rudder: 1/16 centre with 1/2 ribs either side covered with Litespan.
Rest of model covered with silver Solarfilm, Prymol coated then brushed with two coats of Spectrum enamel, finally brushed with Tufkote matt/gloss mixed.
Cowl: home made GRP. Noseweight: a few ounces strapped above the motor plus some on the firewall.
Weight dry: 7lbs. 14oz.
If I had used a more conventional retract set up it probably would not have required any nose weight at all.
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit|
Shaun, that looks great. You will welcome the extra length to get the cg correct, but I fear that the covering and paint will send it a long way back. I use a 1200 NiCad under the tank and a few ounces of lead in the nose with a YS63 up front, but I do build my tail ends very light. I covered mine in silver Solarfilm which is much easier to apply than the normal solid colours because it is thicker, then applied Humbrol enamel by brush, finally coating with 50/50 mixed Tufcote gloss/matt. Use plenty of elevator throw initially on take off. Good luck.
|Thread: Draining tank with cowl|
|If not using crankcase pressure but only silencer pressure or none at all, you must keep the fuel line from the tank outlet as short as possible or the motor will have problems drawing fuel when the nose is raised. A fill valve fixed to the firewall on the underside would appear to be a good compromise since it will be out of sight.|
|Thread: Multiple Ribs|
|If all the ribs are the same, ie, constant chord, then just cut a load of rectangular blanks, align them with a 1/16" ply template at each end and plane/sand to shape. You can also cut the spar notches with a saw or file at this stage. Drill a hole for aileron cables/pushrods also. If you want a tapered wing then go to `Profili` website. It`s dead easy.|
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