Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wiiispa's Tucano|
2" wide is more than enough. Epoxy resin is best but I tried acrylic varnish on the 44".
Look at the pics of my wing joiners and you will see that they are simply pieces of lightply bent to meet the angled spars. They are really only there to assist with the dihedral angle since the strength lies in the gf bandage over the wing sheeting. Note that a veneered foam wing has no spars and totally relies on the bandage.
Thought so. Just go for electric and copy what I did! Any help required just ask. It will be at Greenacres if you can make it and want to have a look.
I cannot visualise just how you could fit a fully inverted motor, be able to access the plug and still fit the nosegear at the very front of the model. Sidewinder would be better since whichever way you do it the head and/or silencer will stick out.
Hope the above is of some help.
You certainly seem to have this well thought out. Mine are both fully symmetrical sections with +1 deg. incidence which seems about right so you will not require more than this with a semi.
Making a built up tail just adds too much complication for such a small model and soft 1/4" balsa would be better. Remember that with a heavy i/c motor and a retract unit right up front you may have to add tail weight so no point in trying to make it lighter.
I would stick with a two piece wing since it follows convention and is simpler/lighter.
Try to dispense with the nosewheel steering if you can. It is not necessary. (continued)
|Thread: Martin's Tucano|
Not quite sure what exactly you are after here.
The motor is a NT propdrive 35/36. The full drive spec. as used is in the build blog somewhere and is more than adequate. Actually less power than most people seem to be using.
|Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread|
Thought so. I was a member for twenty odd years. Recognised the old air raid shelter. Oh for those lovely tarmac runways again. Flew aerobatics today from the hallowed Barkston main runway for the first time in 34 years which brought back a few distant memories.
That site looks very like Fradley to me Colin, am I right? Well done with the model.
|Thread: Calling All Tucano Builders!|
Oh. Whats the difference?
What has happened here? Nothing after 19/5 although I certainly posted my threat to attend on both days well after this date.
|Thread: Wiiispa's Tucano|
Sorry to sound so negative but I fear that this would only end up as a tale of woe.
Remember that I have nearly fifty years experience of fitting every type of these and whilst electric units require no complex linkages or air valves the rest of the pitfalls are still present.
Hi, I expect that you have looked at my built up wing retract version.
The noseleg was a squeeze even with an extended fus and electric power.
Considering that this is your first build I would strongly suggest that you put the retracts away until you have very much more experience since there are many pitfalls even on a much larger model. Just trying to fit and get the legs to remain in the correct place can be mind boggling even to an experienced modeller.
If you think that you really must go ahead with this then a single door fixed to each mainleg oleo will give you enough to think about. Forget magnets and rubber bands. It is not done like this. The slightest impediment to an electric unit will cause it to shut down and stop.
|Thread: Tucano Builders Meet Up at Greenacres|
I shall be there flying on both days and have laid up the models so that I cannot bend them beforehand.
That is if I am recovered from a mystery bug which has seen me off work for nearly three weeks now.
|Thread: Dalotel 48|
Hopefully this will be at Greenacres.
Hi kc, this is a 70% version from a plan kindly given to me by Joe Suddes from South Africa in 1979 when I was there. The original was for a geared 60 and is believed to be fairly accurate scale.
Since I have now finished my Tucanos and was kicking my heels a bit I decided to reincarnate my very old 48" Dalotel DM165 Viking which I killed off in a rather too enthusiastic `Blender`recently.
This is OS25FX powered and now sports electric retracts to replace the old Robart ones.
I have built many of these from 44" to 2M and is the most delightful design I have ever flown. Would make a good leccy conversion.
Some fuzzy pics.
|Thread: Two stroke oil|
You are right to be sceptical but it is far from a myth. Many of the (cheaper end) current petrol motors use a standard piston and liner incorporated into a model engine case.These are not exactly a perfect, modern, CNC fit and require running in as did old car engines, i.e. run for a while at low speed, let it cool for a few hours then repeat a few times to bed in the rings/liner and harden off the surface. Synthetic will just not allow this initial smoothing off of the surfaces and you will end up with them hardened but without a good seal. My last petrol acquisition had zero compression from new but it started and is now tiptop. Of course a quality high end motor should not really need this.
ABC motors come with a perfect seal generally and need no running in but I once bought a bad example of a very popular glow which took two hours to start the first time but after much running became very good and reliable.
Hi Steve, I seem to remember Brian Winch saying the same as me somewhere in the past. Synthetic is effectively too good to get a reasonable run-in time. Similar to putting a couple of tanks of castor through a glow to build up a seal.
Trouble is that assuming your motor needs a running in period you can run it on synthetic until you are blue in the face and nothing much will happen, which is why I said to use mineral oil (the cheap stuff) for this and this only.
|Thread: Greenacres Fly-In|
Martyn, I shall be there this year whatever the weather and promiss to give you that display, flight line organisers permitting!
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