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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
17/02/2009 21:16:18

Shaun, that looks great. You will welcome the extra length to get the cg correct, but I fear that the covering and paint will send it a long way back. I use a 1200 NiCad under the tank and a few ounces of lead in the nose with a YS63 up front, but I do build my tail ends very light. I covered mine in silver Solarfilm which is much easier to apply than the normal solid colours because it is thicker, then applied Humbrol enamel by brush, finally coating with 50/50 mixed Tufcote gloss/matt. Use plenty of elevator throw initially on take off. Good luck.

Thread: Draining tank with cowl
17/02/2009 20:51:02
If not using crankcase pressure but only silencer pressure or none at all, you must keep the fuel line from the tank outlet as short as possible or the motor will have problems drawing fuel when the nose is raised. A fill valve fixed to the firewall on the underside would appear to be a good compromise since it will be out of sight.
Thread: Multiple Ribs
13/02/2009 22:58:40
If all the ribs are the same, ie, constant chord, then just cut a load of rectangular blanks, align them with a 1/16" ply template at each end and plane/sand to shape. You can also cut the spar notches with a saw or file at this stage. Drill a hole for aileron cables/pushrods also. If you want a tapered wing then go to `Profili` website. It`s dead easy.
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
13/02/2009 22:36:41
Shaun, do as I do. Chuck the commercial plastic horns and make your own to any shape you wish from 1/16" epoxy glass printed circuit board ( from Maplins). Epoxy into place after drilling several small holes to grab the glue. Only use ball links as a quick link will soon wear out the hole.
Thread: Draining tank with cowl
09/02/2009 22:46:14
I normally drain from the silencer pressure line with the model inverted and the bung from the fill line removed; alternatively I use a system of tubes (four) under the model which consists of a `U` arrangement in the carb. line, a pressure release tube with a bung (in the case of crankcase pressurised systems - or otherwise) and a blanked off tube to park the clunk tube on when not in use so that the system is sealed  to prevent evaporation and fuel seepage. These are soldered or glued to a strip of printed circuit board or similar. Works well. Hope this helps.
Thread: Phoenix smoke
09/02/2009 22:21:51
Thanks guys, will try that. only just seen the replies because I did not click the reply notifications button.
Thread: Pick -a- 'plane discussions
08/02/2009 22:24:37
To Tony Nihuis - what would YOU like to design for us next?
Thread: Super-charging does it make sence?
05/02/2009 21:03:58
Just buy a YS and you will see why supercharging works!
Thread: Pick a plane 2009
03/02/2009 22:29:34
Cannot find my suggestion on this site, which was a Kawasaki Ki 61 Tony which was featured in RCM&E many years ago. Looks like a good sensible model to build as it was a low wing Japanese fighter with good lines and would be fairly easy to build. Could be leccy or i/c but would prefer i/c about  65" span for 61 four stroke.
In my view some of the suggestions are rather silly. Just how many people would want, or are capable of building them?   The Tony bit would be appropriate!
17/01/2009 22:42:59
How about a Kawasaki Tony - featured in RCM&E many years ago. From what I remember it looked a sensible modelling subject.
Thread: Phoenix smoke
17/01/2009 22:29:21
Cannot get the smoke to work. No problem with streamers which are on the same set up page. Can anyone help please before I contact Phoenix?
Thread: Phoenix Sim
17/01/2009 22:21:32
You must download DirectX 9
Thread: Buying from china
18/12/2008 23:18:00
Hi Neil, yes they do have an address in Truro and I can highly recommend them for rapid delivery of quality goods at the right price.
07/12/2008 23:16:00
Just go to Giant cod and get most lecky things legally, at the right price, and UK postage to boot! Having said that I must admit that I still look at Chinese sites.
21/11/2008 21:47:00
I do not mind paying the customs duty, which is only VAT, but its the eight quid on top of that to the post office which really riles me. Been caught twice when buying from the US because they insist on putting the full price on the label.
Thread: Aerofoils
20/11/2008 21:50:00

I seem to have opened a right can of worms here! The subject of engine offset has always been very debatable. The circulating propwash could well account for the left roll tendency because I have not found thrustline offset to be necessary on a couple of pushers I have made, but these were not intended to be very aerobatic.

I have always endeavered to get a model to fly straight up, down, upright, inverted and in knife edge. Look at the torque roll - the model has no forward speed and if left alone rolls to the left. The propwash must be far more effective here.

Now look at a (toy) gyro. If you push it in one direction it does not go away from that direction but responds at 90deg. to the force applied, so an engine offset to the right will not necessarily make the model yaw right. Try fitting a smaller prop to a model and you will find that it tends to lose sense of direction and has a mind of its own. This is frequently demonstrated on el*ctr*c models which have a high revving motor turning a small prop. Right thrust is not really pulling to the right as you look at an upright model but countering the forces which are trying to roll it to the left - whichever way up it may be. What does this have to do with airfoils? Sorry Eric.

20/11/2008 14:51:00

Hi, I am not really talking about an individual model but the type in general, because fitting a semi symmetrical wing to say a F3A or Cap type simply causes the model to zoom when the speed is increased and means that you need a fistfull of down for inverted figures, whereas the normal symmetrical wing does not cause inadvertent snap rolls unless the model is unduly heavy.

Right thrust is still right thrust inverted because it is countermanding the roll effect caused by the torque and gyroscopic effect of the motor, which of course is still rotating in the same direction.

Being former F3A British champion and twice team member, I know most of what is worth knowing about aerobatics, but it is this fun fly section thing which is bugging me!

20/11/2008 09:41:00
Phil, I am talking about the Limbo Dancer in each case, this of course being a high wing model. With the supplied wing you can outside loop as tight as you like all day and it does not snap out, but fit a symmetrical wing which is otherwise identical and it will immediately snap out of a tight bunt. Just wondered what the theory may be behind this.
19/11/2008 23:01:00
A bit puzzled by fun fly sections. A symmetrical would seem the obvious choice for this type of model but on each occasion I have tried it the model just screws out of outside loops. The almost flat bottomed section a la Limbo Dancer seems to work best. Why? 
14/11/2008 20:14:00
I stick with the RAF 30 on most of my aerobatic designs (i/c-F3A) because I have not found a better one!
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