Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Just the video link which we may be interested in, not the quads (yet).
I have been looking at the Heliguy site quite a lot but it is obviously very sales orientated. I shall, however, have a peek at their forum which I don`t think I have accessed as yet.
I am only interested in building from scratch..
There was a link somewhere to three free Vimeos but cannot seem to find them again. These were showing some excellent FPV shots. I do not wish to splash out on this sort of stuff for my hobby but as I am in the (sometimes wireless) video business I could do with finding them again. One was chasing a quad bike, one on a business park and the other flying between trees. May be interested in the equipment used for commercial use but need to show the capabilities to the boss!
Thanks for the info,
If anyone knows where to find them please let me know.
Hi chaps. Did not intend a pic of someone elses quad but thanks to David for explaining how it may have got there. No offence intended.
Can the HK KK board be used as received or is further programming necessary? Have looked at few websites on this subject but they are rather less than informative. Guess I will have to wait until it arrives.
Anyone out there trying to build a quadcopter from scratch? Just started a 450mm one using 12mm alloy tubing and awaiting the KK board, Donkey motors and 12A esc`s from HK. Probably got it all wrong from the start but then I get my kicks from experimenting. You will gather from the above that I am trying to do one as cheaply as possible.
|Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!|
Pics when it is a bit more finished.
Tried to make my own cheapo roll mask using bits of cable, masking tape and UHU POR to get a feathered edge. It worked well but was too labour intensive.
Messing about with my new Hobbyking bead blaster in an attempt to weather it (sandpaper is much more effective) I tried it on the paint colour joins. It gives a slight overspray blend effect but boy does it get rid of all the paint creepage. No need to touch in here and there. Well worth the small cost.
Don`t forget my offer to make a standard half cowl in GF if you want a quicker route.
My Spit is now all riveted and painted so will probably be finished after about another six months!
Let me be the first to offer you my most sincere condolences Danny. Words cannot express what many scores of us out here must be thinking. The tips you have passed on may in some way make your loss into a massive gain in inspiration for your fellow builders.
Having just sanded the excess cloth from the first fus side with 320 grit and partially flatted some of the covered area, the rest should just take minutes and loads of primer should not be necessary. This has made glassing a model very easy. The wing underside is now done and I found that peeling back a little of the ply at the centtre whilst the resin was still wet in order to do the other half had no ill effects.
Wakey wakey all. Just removed the peel ply from the first fus side and am very pleased with the result, this being my first attempt at this method. I was even more tight fisted than Danny and only used 35ml of resin. Hardly any came through the ply and it was totally done with a 1/2" brush, not a credit card although I shall probably try that on the wing which I am just about to do. I increased the fairing size to near scale and the ply went on a doddle. 30 mins work with a pot life of 40 mins. I shall do the fiddly bits at the nose and fin later. The ply was ironed first with the setting on mine between silk and wool. It looks like it will require quite a lot of filler/primer prior to finishing but we shall see.
Danny, tried Ashtek but could not see what I want so will probably look for something else. Thanks anyway.
Thanks Danny, I shall look them up.
Thanks Danny, I shall look them up.
Hi Danny, exactly what is the make and type of connector you have used? This looks to be a good idea which I could use a lot. Are they the same pins as servo plugs? If so I can easily get the female shells but the males only come in PCB header type from my suppliers. Where did you get them please?
My Spit . is coming along fine now, with the wing and tail surfaces ready for covering/glassing. Just a bit disappointed that the MHS version 1/4" fus bits are nowhere near the height above the wing fairing than that shown on the plan which makes sanding to shape a little difficult. The wing seems to be rather overweight for the size, probably due to the re-used Taiwanese tea chests that the ribs must have been cut from despite making as many lightening holes as possible. With my previous gripes about the plan this will be the last one that I shall buy from MHS. Looks like the choice of a 30cc petrol may have been a good idea. Making the tail/fin/elevators/rudder entirely from built up balsa should pay off as they are very light.
Hi Danny, surely you are going to use an ally spinner, which can add a lot of weight? Why not try my way of casting lead into the nose of this as you cannot get it much further forward? Nats or bust tomorrow! Have you any of those generic stencils you mentioned which you could bring with you? I can usually be found in the bar!
You can get digital scales with a hook from China on ebay for next to nothing.
With all those unnecessary spruce stringers on my Hurri I needed a huge forward shift of the cg and ended up casting, after very careful levelling, 1kg of lead into the nose of the spinner. This was secured with epoxy afterwards and has posed no problems whatsoever.
The Hurri was only turning 5600 on a 23x8 at GMAC but still flew OK. The problem was not overheating as such but a bit of debris in the carb.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 21/08/2011 00:14:39
Hope you sort this problem out soon. Now you see why I am going for a 30cc petrol. A bit of an overkill but with the Hurri experience I am keeping my fingers crossed. Will take you up on your offer of the generic lettering soon if that is OK.
|Thread: New builder would like info please.|
Hi Gary, you have not said what you are building. If the fus sides are rounded off then generally there would be triangular or square section pieces of balsa along the length at each corner of the formers to allow for sanding: if left with square edges this would not be necessary. The centre section ribs should be angled inwards slightly to take account of the dihedral, this done before any sheeting of the wing. Any gap will be filled with epoxy when you glue the halves together. The learning curve for model building can be very long indeed and we all make mistakes but the end result is usually very satisfying.
|Thread: Sorry, servo size question!|
I used GWS 9g servos on my Mini Jazz - no problem at all.
|Thread: Dustys Spitfire sound effect module.|
A workmate was recently repairing an I-pod amplifying system which consisted of a couple of very tiny speakers fed into a circular, tubular horn. The lower frequency sounds were truly amazing and the whole assembly was around a large model fuselage cross section size. May be worth a look at.
Yes. the sounders we use need to be almost totally exposed (a large hole) so I would have thought that using a wing skin as a sound plate should work although, not having a model sound unit myself, this is only theory. If in the above example you put the speaker cone against a window pane then the sound would be transmitted to the patio.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 31/07/2011 21:34:35
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