By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz
04/12/2007 22:45:00
Me too neither - would not use them in a tranny or non electric set up. Have had several fail so far but luckily not in the air. `Good` quality ones to boot, and looked after carefully.
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
30/11/2007 21:27:00
Kevin, it is about 1/7 scale.
28/11/2007 12:50:00
Hi Shaun, I cut a tapered piece of 1/4" balsa to prop up the te, starting at zero thickness at the root then the height of the tip rib at the other end, steaming this to the shape of the te. Use for building both wing halves. Pin this, the outer edges of the root and tip ribs and spars and the false le. Then remove all internal pins. If you have added most of the shear webs, as you should, the wing will remain straight. Don`t forget that the te shape should be near the final shape to enable you to get at and remove the pins. Make a card template from the plan and draw in the final te shape before you remove it from the plan. MM.
27/11/2007 21:35:00
Shaun. You can now remove the wing half from the plan, trim the LE and TE and add aliphatic, PVA, cyano or whatever you prefer from the underside of the top surface to strengthen the joints. The fun really begins when you come to fit the retracts, servos, and sort out the ailerons! Never heard of the amonia trick, so don`t try it. Best of luck.
27/11/2007 21:24:00
Shaun. You now need to join them. Pin one edge of a sheet to the board. You can either coat the adjoining sheet with medium or slow Zap and offer it to the pinned sheet smoothing the cyano with your finger, or pin both sheets closely together and run thin Zap down the joint. Either works. Repeat for the other sheets. Remove from the board. The flattest surface will be the underside. Sand each face as level as possible-I use an electric sander. You would find it hard to level the joins after applying to the wing. Coat all surfaces on the pinned down wing with `slow` or `sheeting` Zap and apply the (trimmed to slightly oversize) sheet, pressing down the length of the spars first, then gradually onto the LE and TE. Keep up the pressure until you think that it has stuck to the ribs, but do not try to force down a low area or you will end up with a dip. (continued).
27/11/2007 20:58:00
Shaun, I flew the model on Sunday last with the smaller 53 motor using a 13x5 Zinger wood prop. I think that the landing speed was quite a bit slower but it was rather windy. The power reduction was quite noticeable but very adequate because I do not wish it to tear around like a pylon racer. Re your building queries. You must join the sheeting prior to applying to the wing surface. I do this as follows: I lay the cellophane backing from transparent Profilm onto the building board; you could use greaseproof paper or just rub the board with a candle. Take each sheet of balsa, pin down to the board and using a straight edge trim both edges carefully so that they are perfectly straight. you only need to remove a small ammout of material. (continued).
Thread: Dents and dings...
22/11/2007 23:09:00
Terry, just what type of plastic skin have you tried? Do you mean Solarfilm? If so try Profilm which is a different kettle of fish altogether. Having said that, I use Solarfilm a lot, especially the silver and polyester versions because they are easy to apply and very light. If you want to use glass covering then go for 0.9oz cloth from a model shop.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
19/11/2007 19:28:00
No problems Pete. Thanks for an excellent design.
19/11/2007 09:27:00
Sorry Pete, I fly pattern.
18/11/2007 21:53:00

PW, fledged mine for the first time yesterday with an electric set-up. No downthrust but 1.5deg right thrust added. Pleased to say that no detectable faults were found. One of those rare models which flew straight from the board. Used a 14x7 APC leccy prop but can go up to a 14x11 which may need more right thrust Tried loops, outsides, four points, slows, stall turns, upright and inverted spins and no rudder coupling or veering off was found. The cg seems to be spot on and not even one click of elevator trim was required, so go with the small ammount of sidethrust. I have never found a model which does not need some. MM.

Thread: 35mHz interference poser
12/11/2007 21:49:00
Pete, yes, that is about the right situation, three or more Tx`s with mine on 73, one on 67 and one or more on some other frequency. I have never used dual conversion, only PPM or PCM single conversion. I wonder how many other combinations of frequencies could cause a similar problem? The fact that I could be holding the model with full Tx aerial and the interfering TX had the aerial collapsed and still caused a complete lockout is rather worrying. Thanks for your input. MM.
Thread: 3 blade props
11/11/2007 20:04:00
Thanks Reuben, Martin Mc.
Thread: How Many flyable planes do you have ?
09/11/2007 23:50:00
Bull
Thread: 1/3 AAA Cells
06/11/2007 21:40:00
John, please email me for further details. I believe that there is an email button somewhere that you can use. The packs are approx. 12mm dia. and 10mm long, weighing 4g each and can easily be split with a knife. I would only want a nominal sum for say 10 packs. I use desoldering braid to join cells. Just looked at a pack which is typical of a central heating back-up battery, and realised that even this, though much larger, is only 150mAh capacity so you may have to take chance and use the small packs in parallel. Would be great for LED lightng.
Thread: JR nes591 servo's
02/11/2007 23:36:00
David, don`t worry about your sevos constantly buzzing. It generally means that you have servos with good tight centring, PROVIDED THAT YOUR LINKAGES ARE NOT BINDING! Just listen to digi servos singing away to the weight of a control surface alone using ball raced linkages. Just ensure that your horn and servo links will fall due to gravity when disconnected. Much better to have a loose link than a tight one, because not only will your battery drain increase, you will have problems finding neutral on control surfaces.
Thread: 1/3 AAA Cells
02/11/2007 23:13:00
I have loads of small NiMh 3.6V a little greater dia. than AAA and about a 1/4 of thier length if anyone is interested. LED lights maybe? Probably the wrong voltage for your RTF though.
Thread: 35mHz interference poser
01/11/2007 18:59:00
Definitely.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
01/11/2007 18:51:00
Peter, you are preaching to a converted, dyed in the wool petrol head but I do like to dabble in other things, besides, there are three days a week when we are not allowed to fly i/c at my site. Also I have decided to change the outer motors of my nearly completed Lanc to electric to give power in reserve and hopefully peace of mind that if all else fails at least they will still be running. So as I said - it is a test bed. Martin Mc.
Thread: 3 blade props
31/10/2007 22:35:00
Dunno yet but a very low kV motor should be the answer. I have been trying a 670kV and the bigger the prop I fit the better the performance seems to be but of course the current drain goes up. I think a case of suck it and see at the moment until motor manfacturers/ retailers start to give more info on the recommended props/ battery capacity/discharge rate required/power output expected/rpm etc. instead of the utterly confusing diameter/length/No. of turns which do not mean a lot to me, and I presume many others.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
31/10/2007 21:31:00
Peter, I bought wisely on ebay and ended up with 2x 2200 3s1p lipos, 2x 60A esc`s and 2x 600W motors for around the price of an OS32SX, but these are intended for the outboard motors of my Lanc. and at the moment are just experimental in other models to get the feel of them and try different props etc: your Cap is just right for this, not that I would not have built it anyway because I can get more than enough power from an OS25FX piped - but that would have to be built inside to get it to look right. Certainly I would recommend the i/c set up for anyone intending to build this model as I have had similar in the past, but then I am not averse to trying out this funny newfangled technology. Not looking for a mind boggling performance. Will keep you posted as to the results. Martin Mc.
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Support Our Partners
Gliders Distribution
Pepe Aircraft
Wings & Wheels 2019
CML
Slec
Cambridge Gliding Club
electricwingman 2017
Sarik
Advertise With Us
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Do you use a throttle kill switch?
Q: This refers to electric-powered models but do you use a throttle kill switch?

 Yes
 No
 Sometimes
 Rarely

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us