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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Starting out`
28/08/2007 19:27:00

No,no, what I meant was to start with a cheap set as an intro to the hobby as it stands now, get used to the current pegboard system, get your hard landings out of the way with the cheapo, then if you find that the hobby suits you, go buy the best system that you are likely to require way into the future and which you can afford. My other Tx`s at the moment are just a JR 3810 and a 388. Excellent but they are both now long in the tooth and having spent the minimum possible on a 2.4 to see if the system is as good as it is cracked up to be I shall now wait for one of the better offerings to come because I am sure that it will outlast me! Martin.

PS I was able to buy an afforementioned MPX set in the early 80`s. It cost an arm and a leg at the time but I had an insurace payout when some b-----d nicked all my competition models and gear. It was the most reliable set I have ever owned. No failures whatsoever in twelve years.

Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz
28/08/2007 19:07:00
The reason that I would not at the moment put a lipo pack in a Tx is that out of the eight or so that I have bought, two have suffered from cell swelling, despite being very carefully used well within their C rating along with lipo guards and balancers. Don`t mind that happening on the bench but not in my tranny! These were what is considered top of the range packs too. Anyone know where I can buy single cells to repair the packs since I too am on a budget and cannot keep going out and spending 25 to 100 quid each time one requires replacing. Martin Mc.
Thread: Starting out`
27/08/2007 21:04:00
Timbo, I agree with you on most of that, but some of us require more than 7 channels. My 1/9 and 1/7 scale Nihuis Spits both use 7 channels. My Rutan Cozy requires 9, and my unfinished Lanc. will need rather more than that. Depends on what you like to fly. Martin.
Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz
27/08/2007 20:43:00
`Cos I did not fancy that strange dual Rx set up. Also I thought that I would give Futaba a try. Will stick to JR in the future.MM. PS. my experience with lipos would not give me enough confidence to entrust them to a Tx. Cannot see the point either. MM.
Thread: Starting out`
27/08/2007 15:43:00
Timbo, guess what, I disagree with that statement! I suggested a 35mHz as a starter because it will be with us for some time to come and will teach a tyro pegboard routine. They may well become an instructor or even examiner very soon and  must learn the basics. Also, 2.4, although not new technology, is still in its infancy  re model flying and does not as yet offer a top range set of gear, so if the perfomance of my basic set is anything to go by, will be worth the wait. I have to admit that I did not consider teaming the two systems with a buddy lead. MM.
26/08/2007 23:31:00
1)Join a club with a proper training programme, even if this entails driving a few more miles. 2) Use whatever gear the locals do so that you will be able to fly with a buddybox. Buy the cheapest NEW gear compatible with the above and when proficient, you will be in a better position to decide on your next outfit, which should be a top range set and will last you for many years. There is nothing wrong with 35mHz gear, so this would be a good starting point. By the time you are proficient 2.4 will have advanced a lot so I would advise you to wait a bit, because the buddybox system will probably not be available on this frequency at your club as yet. Regards,MM.
Thread: Arising Star
26/08/2007 23:13:00
3/16 ply? I doubt it. Most likely laminated from two pieces of 3mm liteply. Available from any model shop. Sounds like a bit of an overkill to me. Must weigh a ton! By the way, I offer a build/repair service. Regards, MM.
Thread: DIY hinges
26/08/2007 22:56:00
Alvin, no, you have got it wrong. Zap-a-gap is medium thick/ slow ca. You must insert the hinge first then apply very thin ca so that it capilliaries into the hinge and the wood. You do not apply ca to the hinge first! MM.
26/08/2007 22:43:00
I guess that hinging is a major stumbling block for newcomers to the hobby and ARTF`ers. Perhaps an article in the mag. would not go amiss David? There must be many out there who have only just started and have not seen previous mags. MM.
26/08/2007 22:18:00
Alvin, you must only use ca on `hairy` mylar hinges. Push a set into the control surface and apply super thin ca to each side of the hinges. Push these into the flying surface and again apply ca. If using metal pinned hinges, you should always use epoxy. Coat the hinge line with Vaseline, fit to the control surface and allow to set, then epoxy to the flying surface. When hardened, chip away any excess with a blade until the hinges are free moving. The Vaseline barrier will ensure that the epoxy does not cause the hinges to sieze. You MUST then push a dressmaking pin through the hinges on each surface and snip off to leave flush. With practise this is very easy. Regards, MM.
Thread: canopies
26/08/2007 21:54:00
Thanks Peter, I shall try that.
Thread: Scale Servo Retracts
26/08/2007 00:48:00
Try making epoxy/glass cowls. They are very easy and so much stronger and better all round.
Thread: canopies
26/08/2007 00:17:00
Grumps, I seem to remember about 180C. There was an article in one of the modelling mags some time ago on this subject on which my vacformer was based. The problem with the design is that  you need to use a standard sheet of acetate. I found that using plaster of paris which was taken from a male balsa, then a female glass  mould resulted in a mould which required so much heat to the plaster that it cracked when heated. The answer is to use a hardwood former in the first place but then this would entail a fair bit of work. Do not know what Vortex use. Martin. 
Thread: Scale Servo Retracts
25/08/2007 23:38:00
Got the video - think I can better that but not enough of a computer wizard yet to get you pics. Martin.
25/08/2007 23:20:00
Ta
Thread: canopies
25/08/2007 23:13:00
I needed a canopy for a very specialised 1/4 scale model, so I made a vacform box from wood, to which a a vacuum cleaner could be attached. The acetate sheet has to be clamped in a frame which will fit over the perforated top surface of the box. Heat the acetate in the oven until it sags a lot, then quickly place over the frame with the vacuum running. A heat gun will help with any awkward bits, but this is very time consuming and expensive when you get it wrong!
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
25/08/2007 22:14:00
Nick, I was thinking of models up to 10 lbs!
Thread: Scale Servo Retracts
25/08/2007 22:04:00
Elliot, what span/ weight is your Spit? Exactly which motor are you using please? I have a newly flown Nihuis 63" Spit with home made servo slows, one leg 4 secs, the other 5 secs, using modified digi servos. I cannot view any of your videos! Why?
Thread: Piano wire
23/08/2007 22:47:00
Thanks Al
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
23/08/2007 21:23:00

Nick, yes, the wing will be flat on top. I intend to use this design because 1) it is the right size for the intended power plant, 2) most Caps fly well, 3) everyone else seems to go for the 232.

The hinges mentioned wll work with most models, but obviously not giants. You must use SUPER THIN cyano.

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