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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
08/12/2007 21:05:00
Keith, I am not familiar with Unitracts and prefer the cheapo (£18.99) units from say Inwood Model Supplies, from which I also bought the wheels. They are a mail order company. I drilled them out to take 6SWG legs with no coil spring at all and they have proven to be very reliable. I have also fitted dummy oleo legs from aluminium tubing. As long as your leg outer surface is level with or below the wing surface you should have no problem. Did you manage to locate the mag. article mentioned? The legs should be raked back 21deg. on the surface of the wing, 16deg. forward when extended, then bent back 2 1/2deg. This will make the wheel sit in the well when set parallel in the extended position. Not easy to do but well worth the effort.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
08/12/2007 20:35:00
Mark, have test flown mine a couple of times on a 3520 L with E-Max 60A esc and 3s2p 4400 pack turning APC 14x7E. It can cope with 14x11 super nylon but the performance so far suggests that this will not be necessary. The max. weight with that pack and the 14x11 would be 4lb2oz. The minimum with a 3s1p 3200 and 14x7 is 3lb13oz. On the first set up it goes vertical forever but have not been able to test further due to the inclement weather. See previous posts. Er, knife edge? No problem. 
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
07/12/2007 22:29:00

Hi Keith, do not worry. I used Robart scale wheels 3 1/2" dia which are 27.5mm thick and they JUST fit. I have also fitted wheel doors. If you can get the Robart 3 1/4" they should, I immagine, be even thinner. There are plenty of wheels available which are much slimmer still but may not look the part. Have you angled the retract units correctly as shown on the plan? See RCME April 2001 (I think) to see how to do it properly.

Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz
04/12/2007 22:45:00
Me too neither - would not use them in a tranny or non electric set up. Have had several fail so far but luckily not in the air. `Good` quality ones to boot, and looked after carefully.
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
30/11/2007 21:27:00
Kevin, it is about 1/7 scale.
28/11/2007 12:50:00
Hi Shaun, I cut a tapered piece of 1/4" balsa to prop up the te, starting at zero thickness at the root then the height of the tip rib at the other end, steaming this to the shape of the te. Use for building both wing halves. Pin this, the outer edges of the root and tip ribs and spars and the false le. Then remove all internal pins. If you have added most of the shear webs, as you should, the wing will remain straight. Don`t forget that the te shape should be near the final shape to enable you to get at and remove the pins. Make a card template from the plan and draw in the final te shape before you remove it from the plan. MM.
27/11/2007 21:35:00
Shaun. You can now remove the wing half from the plan, trim the LE and TE and add aliphatic, PVA, cyano or whatever you prefer from the underside of the top surface to strengthen the joints. The fun really begins when you come to fit the retracts, servos, and sort out the ailerons! Never heard of the amonia trick, so don`t try it. Best of luck.
27/11/2007 21:24:00
Shaun. You now need to join them. Pin one edge of a sheet to the board. You can either coat the adjoining sheet with medium or slow Zap and offer it to the pinned sheet smoothing the cyano with your finger, or pin both sheets closely together and run thin Zap down the joint. Either works. Repeat for the other sheets. Remove from the board. The flattest surface will be the underside. Sand each face as level as possible-I use an electric sander. You would find it hard to level the joins after applying to the wing. Coat all surfaces on the pinned down wing with `slow` or `sheeting` Zap and apply the (trimmed to slightly oversize) sheet, pressing down the length of the spars first, then gradually onto the LE and TE. Keep up the pressure until you think that it has stuck to the ribs, but do not try to force down a low area or you will end up with a dip. (continued).
27/11/2007 20:58:00
Shaun, I flew the model on Sunday last with the smaller 53 motor using a 13x5 Zinger wood prop. I think that the landing speed was quite a bit slower but it was rather windy. The power reduction was quite noticeable but very adequate because I do not wish it to tear around like a pylon racer. Re your building queries. You must join the sheeting prior to applying to the wing surface. I do this as follows: I lay the cellophane backing from transparent Profilm onto the building board; you could use greaseproof paper or just rub the board with a candle. Take each sheet of balsa, pin down to the board and using a straight edge trim both edges carefully so that they are perfectly straight. you only need to remove a small ammout of material. (continued).
Thread: Dents and dings...
22/11/2007 23:09:00
Terry, just what type of plastic skin have you tried? Do you mean Solarfilm? If so try Profilm which is a different kettle of fish altogether. Having said that, I use Solarfilm a lot, especially the silver and polyester versions because they are easy to apply and very light. If you want to use glass covering then go for 0.9oz cloth from a model shop.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
19/11/2007 19:28:00
No problems Pete. Thanks for an excellent design.
19/11/2007 09:27:00
Sorry Pete, I fly pattern.
18/11/2007 21:53:00

PW, fledged mine for the first time yesterday with an electric set-up. No downthrust but 1.5deg right thrust added. Pleased to say that no detectable faults were found. One of those rare models which flew straight from the board. Used a 14x7 APC leccy prop but can go up to a 14x11 which may need more right thrust Tried loops, outsides, four points, slows, stall turns, upright and inverted spins and no rudder coupling or veering off was found. The cg seems to be spot on and not even one click of elevator trim was required, so go with the small ammount of sidethrust. I have never found a model which does not need some. MM.

Thread: 35mHz interference poser
12/11/2007 21:49:00
Pete, yes, that is about the right situation, three or more Tx`s with mine on 73, one on 67 and one or more on some other frequency. I have never used dual conversion, only PPM or PCM single conversion. I wonder how many other combinations of frequencies could cause a similar problem? The fact that I could be holding the model with full Tx aerial and the interfering TX had the aerial collapsed and still caused a complete lockout is rather worrying. Thanks for your input. MM.
Thread: 3 blade props
11/11/2007 20:04:00
Thanks Reuben, Martin Mc.
Thread: How Many flyable planes do you have ?
09/11/2007 23:50:00
Thread: 1/3 AAA Cells
06/11/2007 21:40:00
John, please email me for further details. I believe that there is an email button somewhere that you can use. The packs are approx. 12mm dia. and 10mm long, weighing 4g each and can easily be split with a knife. I would only want a nominal sum for say 10 packs. I use desoldering braid to join cells. Just looked at a pack which is typical of a central heating back-up battery, and realised that even this, though much larger, is only 150mAh capacity so you may have to take chance and use the small packs in parallel. Would be great for LED lightng.
Thread: JR nes591 servo's
02/11/2007 23:36:00
David, don`t worry about your sevos constantly buzzing. It generally means that you have servos with good tight centring, PROVIDED THAT YOUR LINKAGES ARE NOT BINDING! Just listen to digi servos singing away to the weight of a control surface alone using ball raced linkages. Just ensure that your horn and servo links will fall due to gravity when disconnected. Much better to have a loose link than a tight one, because not only will your battery drain increase, you will have problems finding neutral on control surfaces.
Thread: 1/3 AAA Cells
02/11/2007 23:13:00
I have loads of small NiMh 3.6V a little greater dia. than AAA and about a 1/4 of thier length if anyone is interested. LED lights maybe? Probably the wrong voltage for your RTF though.
Thread: 35mHz interference poser
01/11/2007 18:59:00
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