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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: DSX9
05/06/2008 22:38:00
Thanks Brian.
Thread: Are you feeling the 'credit crunch'
05/06/2008 22:25:00
Richard, re servo extentions, try ebay or perhaps giantcod.com for 20 x300mm extentions for just £1.98!
05/06/2008 22:18:00
Luckily just got my pension lump sum and have been splashing out on a few things on my wish list, but it will have to stop soon. Modelling has been my (not got one ) life for around 49 years and do not intend to let an economic disaster stop it! See you at the Nats!
Thread: air retacts
05/06/2008 22:02:00
The Eurokit air retract units are very good in themselves, but from my experience use Robart valves etc. to avoid leaks. The extra expense is well worth it.
Thread: DSX9
05/06/2008 20:05:00

Having purchased a DSX9 just five days ago, I was looking forward to the review by Graham in the July issue.

Gripe about the review: hardly touched the surface. We modellers want things yesterday , not have to wait another month for the meaty stuff.

Gripes about the gear: (1) I agree that the lack of info about Rx positions is worse than abysmal. A newcommer to 2.4 would not have a clue as to satellite Rx placement, not that I know much better because my other 2.4 gear all use a single Rx.

(2) The mixers 3-6 cannot be switched on as far as I can make out other than by a pre-assigned switch, unlike the 388 or 3810 which can be permanently on. This means that you have to waste a full-function mix on, as in my case, simple dual retract channels. This could be a simple software upgrade to modify. What say you MacGregor?

(3) I purchased an extra AR7000 Rx which I intend to fly first. On the bench, if I switch the Rx off and on again with the Tx left on, the LED`s permanently flash on both Rx`s. I still have control. If the Rx and Tx are both switched off and on, the system operates normally with all LED`s permanently on. Is it safe to fly with them flashing? Again I can find no reference as yet to this situation.

(4) The JR Rx as supplied with the system is not available separately. You have to buy a Spektrum branded one.

Thread: Futaba 2.4GHz with caution
02/06/2008 23:31:00

On the 2.4gHz theme, but diversing a little, I have just purchased a JR DSX9 set from a very well known retailer. The first thing they said was `this is very expensive for what  you get, you can do it much cheaper by buying a 9X11 and a module conversion`. Smell a rat? So did I. they are just trying to offload their old stock and flog you nearly obsolete gear at full price and not much saving. Beware!

Re pricing, these Rx`s probably cost under 50p to produce so we are being ripped off right left and centre.

Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
06/05/2008 12:40:00
Mine came in a big assorted bag from a tool merchant at a trade show.
Thread: Deadsticks!
05/05/2008 21:32:00
I managed to get a MDS 48 to run very well; that was after some file work on the carb. to stop it jamming fully open, and using 10% nitro and a No.5 plug it will idle all day, loads of noisy power, but don`t ever think of ever using one to fly a model!
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
05/05/2008 21:12:00
Shaun, I fly from grass and always try to use a steerable tailwheel. I cheated on the Spit and used a Dubro bracket, which are the easiest to install, with the top of the wire bent to face rearwards and formed to a hook at the end to which is attached a 3mm dia. x60mm spring screwed into the underside of the rudder and cyano`d at each end to prevent metal to metal noise. This gives perfect control on the ground, protects the rudder servo and is hardly noticeable. It is not in the least sensitive at takeoff but very effective at low speed because you can vary the length of the spring to give greater/ lesser wheel throw.
Thread: From the archives......
02/05/2008 23:03:00
Can anyone remember the ECC Telecommander 951A Rx and ED ground based  carrier wave Tx complete with earth spike and a microswitch on the end of a wire? 8`6" tank antenna. The Rx was suspended on four rubber bands to protect the single triode valve poking out of the top and the relay which operated at about 3mA if you were lucky. The rubber driven escapement was protected by a hinged former which contained a mercury switch which would disconnect the power to the rudder escapement when the rudder `stuck on` and the model spiralled downwards due to radio failure. The RCME UK and Tinytone Rx`s changed all that and transformed r/c flying for many home builders, and at only 14 on a paper round I could just about afford the (3) batteries for a weekend`s flying, but a heated screwdriver tip is not the best thing to solder a Rx with! I probably got more enjoyment from the hobby in those days and still like to dabble in the electronics side if possible (the `E` in RCME) but give me a modern 2.4 set any day now.
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
15/04/2008 21:11:00
I just use foam plastic under the tank to keep the front slightly raised with the tank usually protruding rearwards through the former at the wing L.E. Tight tanks make your fuel foam.
13/04/2008 21:59:00
Shaun, that Bolly website is brilliant and gives me an incentive to try a 3-blader on my Spit, thanks.
Thread: The April Grand Prize Draw
02/04/2008 12:44:00
Me too.
Thread: Where are the electronics?
28/03/2008 09:15:00
Shaun, I use two servo slows on my 63" Spit. with the MG995 servos mounted outboard of the units in the aileron servo wells. Pushes the c of g back somewhat but they are timed to make one leg retract before the other which is very impressive.
Thread: Pick a plane 2008
28/03/2008 09:07:00
Graham, it was actually me who asked for the plans, my message seems to be mingled with the one from Terry!
27/03/2008 23:04:00
Fine, I want a Mossie, so I am doing my own for 2xYS 63 at about 15% scale, but how can I get the official drawings similar to the Lanc. ones which I got from M.A.P. please Graham A.
Thread: Where are the electronics?
27/03/2008 22:47:00

Is that Graham from the SCRCAC?  Remember me? My first Tx was also in a biscuit tin with the heavy 120V+1.5V batteries slung over my shoulder in a gas mask bag, GPO levers as well. 1st successful Rx was the UK, then the Tinytone which I further miniaturised, both from RCME. Got much more pleasure from the hobby in those days knowing that everything down to the finest detail was home constructed.

Back to the question, how about servo slow modules which I use to great effect on my Spit. The details are available on the internet but cannot be reproduced here due to patents. These are very simple to make if you have the programmed chip. Anyone care to design  one because it would make a very simple to assemble and useful device for retracts, flaps, etc., using a normal, metal geared servo (a retract servo will not work). These can be bought for about £20  but made for pennies. Come on you designers.

Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
26/03/2008 20:22:00
Shaun, as is usual with my models, I made a glass fibre cowl which is not as difficult as it may sound. This is simply screwed to plastic angle mounts after engine installation, the only tricky bit being to get a spanner in to tighten a four stroke exhaust. Could reproduce these on a small scale if it would be worth my while re-stocking with cloth, resin, etc. The type of female mould I use can only be used a few times. I am no expert at this and cannot guarantee a professional product. If anyone is desperate I could possibly do these for around £20+pp. Remember that these will be shaped to fit MY fus., but are very flexible.
Thread: Fitting retracts to foam cored wings
22/03/2008 21:08:00
Graham, go with the ply plates every time on foam. I have always used 1/8 birch ply inset so that the edges front and rear align with the wing section. Fit balsa infill on top of this and sand to section. 3" square plates should be about right. Do not dowel these in as is sometimes recommended because in the event of a heavy landing the plates will usually just pull out and not cause further damage. The balsa infill will probably be about right when cut down to the ply to make your u/c flush with the surface. I usually make the rough cutouts with the heated end of a ruler, and finish with a 8mm or so Dremel burr with 60 grit paper glued to the end. Cut the pushrod holes with a heated tube before joining the wing.
Thread: What connector?
13/03/2008 18:40:00
Timbo, only for commercial use. The bod in the street is still, thankfully, able to buy it. If you want some, or 60/40, just email me.
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