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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Age groups of modellers
05/01/2008 16:21:00
I am just about to become 60. Surprised that there are so many out there of my generation with computers to read this since many have yet to buy their first computer radio! I started at about 10 with a Jetex heli, then a KK c/l Spit. which never flew cos the DC Bantam would not start. I got a Veron Cardinal, which I believe is still available, and flew it into a lake when someone kindly showed me how to start the Bantam. Could not see the sense in using clear dope on the white tissue since I wanted mine painted red! I was given some valve gear which belonged to a deceased uncle from Scotland who I believe was quite high up in the modelling hierarchy. (Douglas Patton) It consisted of a ECC Telecommander 951A Rx and ED ground based Tx complete with 8`6" aerial, with a mercury switch to cut off the actuator supply when the model went into a death spiral due to loss of signal, which was frequent. The Rx, with its single valve, was suspended on four rubber bands. Then came the RCME UK Rx which anyone could build and they all worked. The RCME Tinytone all transistor Rx followed which was the size of a postage stamp and got me hooked on small models. Needless to say, when you build your own gear you also build and design your own models, which I have pretty much done ever since. The experience with basic electronics gave me a good background for my subsequent career, and the many other skills learned the hard way in modelling have proven invaluable in later life. I flew top level aerobatics in the 70`s but now tend towards the scale side due to slowing reactions, failing eyesight etc. but building models from scratch will always be a passion. You get maximum satisfaction from the hobby this way. So there! - you pseudo modellers!
Thread: JR Radio update
04/01/2008 21:28:00
Jonathan, no. Once you have tried 2.4 you would not want to trust your pride and joy to anything else, although having said that I would not turn down a real bargain on some really good quality 35Mh Rx`s.
Thread: Wing re-covering
25/12/2007 18:30:00
I always use cellulose to remove Solarfilm polycarbonate residue. If you decide to use clearcoat afterwards you may have problems removing the trapped air. It is like filming over film but more difficult because of the rougher surface, so if you do not have any concave areas or other awkward bits then don`t bother since the overlapping pieces of film will give a good seal.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
18/12/2007 12:02:00
Peter, the entry is very hit and miss but I entered as for a blender but with less aileron. There are articles regarding open aerobatic manoeuvres somewhere in RCME in the last year or so.
17/12/2007 21:57:00
Mark, I have now added wheel pants and a spinner, which not having increased the weight very much have moved the cg forward sufficiently to detract from the perfomance, ie., it refuses to do a knife edge spin anymore, so ensure that the cg is as per plan.
15/12/2007 21:56:00
Hi Mark, I left F1 as is and built a lite ply box mount, in case the leccy set up did not work out
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
09/12/2007 20:56:00
No, the plan does not suggest this but it is a rather advanced type of model and I think that Tony assumes that we have experience. Having said that, if you can install Spit. retracts you should not have trouble with any other type so persevere. I have done dozens and lost a lot of hair doing them.
09/12/2007 16:27:00
Keith, I cannot understand the quoted 24mm depth. The maximum depth of mine are 39mm from underside skin to the inside of the top skin with all rib parts removed from the well. It is built to plan.
08/12/2007 21:05:00
Keith, I am not familiar with Unitracts and prefer the cheapo (£18.99) units from say Inwood Model Supplies, from which I also bought the wheels. They are a mail order company. I drilled them out to take 6SWG legs with no coil spring at all and they have proven to be very reliable. I have also fitted dummy oleo legs from aluminium tubing. As long as your leg outer surface is level with or below the wing surface you should have no problem. Did you manage to locate the mag. article mentioned? The legs should be raked back 21deg. on the surface of the wing, 16deg. forward when extended, then bent back 2 1/2deg. This will make the wheel sit in the well when set parallel in the extended position. Not easy to do but well worth the effort.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
08/12/2007 20:35:00
Mark, have test flown mine a couple of times on a 3520 L with E-Max 60A esc and 3s2p 4400 pack turning APC 14x7E. It can cope with 14x11 super nylon but the performance so far suggests that this will not be necessary. The max. weight with that pack and the 14x11 would be 4lb2oz. The minimum with a 3s1p 3200 and 14x7 is 3lb13oz. On the first set up it goes vertical forever but have not been able to test further due to the inclement weather. See previous posts. Er, knife edge? No problem. 
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
07/12/2007 22:29:00

Hi Keith, do not worry. I used Robart scale wheels 3 1/2" dia which are 27.5mm thick and they JUST fit. I have also fitted wheel doors. If you can get the Robart 3 1/4" they should, I immagine, be even thinner. There are plenty of wheels available which are much slimmer still but may not look the part. Have you angled the retract units correctly as shown on the plan? See RCME April 2001 (I think) to see how to do it properly.

Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz
04/12/2007 22:45:00
Me too neither - would not use them in a tranny or non electric set up. Have had several fail so far but luckily not in the air. `Good` quality ones to boot, and looked after carefully.
Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit
30/11/2007 21:27:00
Kevin, it is about 1/7 scale.
28/11/2007 12:50:00
Hi Shaun, I cut a tapered piece of 1/4" balsa to prop up the te, starting at zero thickness at the root then the height of the tip rib at the other end, steaming this to the shape of the te. Use for building both wing halves. Pin this, the outer edges of the root and tip ribs and spars and the false le. Then remove all internal pins. If you have added most of the shear webs, as you should, the wing will remain straight. Don`t forget that the te shape should be near the final shape to enable you to get at and remove the pins. Make a card template from the plan and draw in the final te shape before you remove it from the plan. MM.
27/11/2007 21:35:00
Shaun. You can now remove the wing half from the plan, trim the LE and TE and add aliphatic, PVA, cyano or whatever you prefer from the underside of the top surface to strengthen the joints. The fun really begins when you come to fit the retracts, servos, and sort out the ailerons! Never heard of the amonia trick, so don`t try it. Best of luck.
27/11/2007 21:24:00
Shaun. You now need to join them. Pin one edge of a sheet to the board. You can either coat the adjoining sheet with medium or slow Zap and offer it to the pinned sheet smoothing the cyano with your finger, or pin both sheets closely together and run thin Zap down the joint. Either works. Repeat for the other sheets. Remove from the board. The flattest surface will be the underside. Sand each face as level as possible-I use an electric sander. You would find it hard to level the joins after applying to the wing. Coat all surfaces on the pinned down wing with `slow` or `sheeting` Zap and apply the (trimmed to slightly oversize) sheet, pressing down the length of the spars first, then gradually onto the LE and TE. Keep up the pressure until you think that it has stuck to the ribs, but do not try to force down a low area or you will end up with a dip. (continued).
27/11/2007 20:58:00
Shaun, I flew the model on Sunday last with the smaller 53 motor using a 13x5 Zinger wood prop. I think that the landing speed was quite a bit slower but it was rather windy. The power reduction was quite noticeable but very adequate because I do not wish it to tear around like a pylon racer. Re your building queries. You must join the sheeting prior to applying to the wing surface. I do this as follows: I lay the cellophane backing from transparent Profilm onto the building board; you could use greaseproof paper or just rub the board with a candle. Take each sheet of balsa, pin down to the board and using a straight edge trim both edges carefully so that they are perfectly straight. you only need to remove a small ammout of material. (continued).
Thread: Dents and dings...
22/11/2007 23:09:00
Terry, just what type of plastic skin have you tried? Do you mean Solarfilm? If so try Profilm which is a different kettle of fish altogether. Having said that, I use Solarfilm a lot, especially the silver and polyester versions because they are easy to apply and very light. If you want to use glass covering then go for 0.9oz cloth from a model shop.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
19/11/2007 19:28:00
No problems Pete. Thanks for an excellent design.
19/11/2007 09:27:00
Sorry Pete, I fly pattern.
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