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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Dents and dings...
22/11/2007 23:09:00
Terry, just what type of plastic skin have you tried? Do you mean Solarfilm? If so try Profilm which is a different kettle of fish altogether. Having said that, I use Solarfilm a lot, especially the silver and polyester versions because they are easy to apply and very light. If you want to use glass covering then go for 0.9oz cloth from a model shop.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
19/11/2007 19:28:00
No problems Pete. Thanks for an excellent design.
19/11/2007 09:27:00
Sorry Pete, I fly pattern.
18/11/2007 21:53:00

PW, fledged mine for the first time yesterday with an electric set-up. No downthrust but 1.5deg right thrust added. Pleased to say that no detectable faults were found. One of those rare models which flew straight from the board. Used a 14x7 APC leccy prop but can go up to a 14x11 which may need more right thrust Tried loops, outsides, four points, slows, stall turns, upright and inverted spins and no rudder coupling or veering off was found. The cg seems to be spot on and not even one click of elevator trim was required, so go with the small ammount of sidethrust. I have never found a model which does not need some. MM.

Thread: 35mHz interference poser
12/11/2007 21:49:00
Pete, yes, that is about the right situation, three or more Tx`s with mine on 73, one on 67 and one or more on some other frequency. I have never used dual conversion, only PPM or PCM single conversion. I wonder how many other combinations of frequencies could cause a similar problem? The fact that I could be holding the model with full Tx aerial and the interfering TX had the aerial collapsed and still caused a complete lockout is rather worrying. Thanks for your input. MM.
Thread: 3 blade props
11/11/2007 20:04:00
Thanks Reuben, Martin Mc.
Thread: How Many flyable planes do you have ?
09/11/2007 23:50:00
Thread: 1/3 AAA Cells
06/11/2007 21:40:00
John, please email me for further details. I believe that there is an email button somewhere that you can use. The packs are approx. 12mm dia. and 10mm long, weighing 4g each and can easily be split with a knife. I would only want a nominal sum for say 10 packs. I use desoldering braid to join cells. Just looked at a pack which is typical of a central heating back-up battery, and realised that even this, though much larger, is only 150mAh capacity so you may have to take chance and use the small packs in parallel. Would be great for LED lightng.
Thread: JR nes591 servo's
02/11/2007 23:36:00
David, don`t worry about your sevos constantly buzzing. It generally means that you have servos with good tight centring, PROVIDED THAT YOUR LINKAGES ARE NOT BINDING! Just listen to digi servos singing away to the weight of a control surface alone using ball raced linkages. Just ensure that your horn and servo links will fall due to gravity when disconnected. Much better to have a loose link than a tight one, because not only will your battery drain increase, you will have problems finding neutral on control surfaces.
Thread: 1/3 AAA Cells
02/11/2007 23:13:00
I have loads of small NiMh 3.6V a little greater dia. than AAA and about a 1/4 of thier length if anyone is interested. LED lights maybe? Probably the wrong voltage for your RTF though.
Thread: 35mHz interference poser
01/11/2007 18:59:00
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
01/11/2007 18:51:00
Peter, you are preaching to a converted, dyed in the wool petrol head but I do like to dabble in other things, besides, there are three days a week when we are not allowed to fly i/c at my site. Also I have decided to change the outer motors of my nearly completed Lanc to electric to give power in reserve and hopefully peace of mind that if all else fails at least they will still be running. So as I said - it is a test bed. Martin Mc.
Thread: 3 blade props
31/10/2007 22:35:00
Dunno yet but a very low kV motor should be the answer. I have been trying a 670kV and the bigger the prop I fit the better the performance seems to be but of course the current drain goes up. I think a case of suck it and see at the moment until motor manfacturers/ retailers start to give more info on the recommended props/ battery capacity/discharge rate required/power output expected/rpm etc. instead of the utterly confusing diameter/length/No. of turns which do not mean a lot to me, and I presume many others.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
31/10/2007 21:31:00
Peter, I bought wisely on ebay and ended up with 2x 2200 3s1p lipos, 2x 60A esc`s and 2x 600W motors for around the price of an OS32SX, but these are intended for the outboard motors of my Lanc. and at the moment are just experimental in other models to get the feel of them and try different props etc: your Cap is just right for this, not that I would not have built it anyway because I can get more than enough power from an OS25FX piped - but that would have to be built inside to get it to look right. Certainly I would recommend the i/c set up for anyone intending to build this model as I have had similar in the past, but then I am not averse to trying out this funny newfangled technology. Not looking for a mind boggling performance. Will keep you posted as to the results. Martin Mc.
Thread: 35mHz interference poser
29/10/2007 23:26:00
Eric, already checked the band with a spec an. You would not fly at all if you saw the results, and that was 5 miles away!
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
29/10/2007 19:11:00
Howard, I too am attempting an electric set up on this model. I have a 600W (max) motor which successfully powers a Limbo Dancer on 3s Lipo and 14x8 EAT wooden prop but punishes the 20C 2200mAh pack despite an 11min flight time. Better on 3900mAh 3s. Will try it on APC 14x7 electric prop. My model is near the covering stage and have modified it somewhat by using 1 1/64 ply doublers and mainly balsa formers hollowed to the bare essentials: also a homespun glass cowl which will make conversion back to i/c simple. I have increased the aileron area as a matter of personal choice and made them built-up. I shall be using two mini digi servos in the wing and JR591`s on rud/ele. The basic airframe weight so far is 19oz with no covering or hardware, but I expect the flying weight to be as quoted. Probable covering will be Solarfilm polyester-if I can find somewhere which stocks it.
Thread: Mode 1 or Mode2
29/10/2007 17:12:00
For you youngsters: pre proportional radios were tuned reed sets. The key switches were laid out to the right and left of the Tx. If you had a posh set you could use any left key with any right, (called dual simultaneous) but only any two at a time. Elevator and elevator trim were on the left. Aileron and rudder were on the right along with throttle if my feeble memory serves me correctly. To spin, or use elevator with aileron you needed one right and one left key, which is very nearly mode 1. Our American cousins, when going proportional, preferred very often a `cuddle box` which had a central stick for ail/ele fitted with a rotary knob for rudder, the throttle being operated by a side mounted slider control with the left hand which `cuddled` the Tx. Since most gear is directed at the US market, ail/ele on one stick caught on. Modes 3&4 are merely left handed versions of modes 1&2. Since most gear now comes into this country in the US configuration it is not therefore surprising that the current competition winners use it. Does not necessarily mean that it is better though.
Thread: 35mHz interference poser
25/10/2007 22:31:00
Thanks for your comments Brian, but as I said in the post I have a boxful of crystals and different rx`s and it does not come down to what I am using on the day. Could have been due to sunspot activity at the time I suppose. Like I said, it is a real poser. MM.
Thread: Which Radio Gear????
25/10/2007 15:48:00
Go for the 7ch. You can buy just the Tx and Rx. Digi servos are something to be appreciated when you have a lot of experience. You would not be able to distinguish the difference in the air for quite some time, and you would save yourself a fair bit of money. If you go down the glider route you will need 7ch, also both of my Spits require 7ch, although on the face of things to start with you may think that you only need 4 or 5ch.
Thread: August Edition CAP 21 Plans
23/10/2007 22:04:00
The Cap 50 would be too narrow. Cannot remember the width of the 140 but would guess at 5 1/2 to 6".
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