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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: UKCAA - Models, engines and schedules
15/03/2013 22:36:16

Hi all, well, I have my 1977 W/C winning exact replica Curare with a ST61XRE piped as can be found in `my photos` and elsewhere on the forum plus a YS 63 powered Dalotel from a design around 1978. Also that 2M ish Dalo in the garish CPLR colours which you pushed me into test flying at the 2000 RCM&E event Terry. After languishing in the loft for many years it was re-equipped with a YS 110 and is now my favourite model, well worn.

Regarding some of the comments on tuned pipes, they were not introduced to give more power (which was an unexpected bonus) but with a welded on additional silencer they were initially used to get inside the new noise limit of the time, which was quite stringent. Terry Cooper did most of the development of these and first used one at the 1975 W/C. According to my tacho we were doing 14,500 on OPS Risonanzas on 11x7 Rev-Up wooden props. Just a bit of history.

Regards, Martin

14/03/2013 22:06:12

Hi Terry and hello again. I think that you have some very good points there. Presenting a model to its best ability for the era and engine/equipment would probably be a lot better than a formal comp. Maybe we could try both depending on interest? Models are ready, when is the forst one to be? Looking forward to it.


Thread: Martin's i.c. Tucano
14/03/2013 09:50:25

Hi Ian, The black and yellow are Solarfilm Polyester and the roundels from Profilm, which is also polyester based. No adhesive is necessary, just wipe over both sides of each piece with a tissue dampened with water to which a few drops of washing up liquid have been added. You do not need a wet surface with polyester, more to do with removing dust.

With the iron set to very cool iron on each piece starting at the centre and working outwards to remove any air. Troublesome little bubbles can be pricked out. Set the iron to medium and seal round all edges.

This does not apply to the cheaper polycarbonate type of film which needs to be applied wet to prevent premature adhesion.

13/03/2013 23:13:16

The tail trim is added. This took only about 25min.

The fus. roundels are made from film using a compass cutter and ironed on as for trim a circle at a time, positioning the red wirh a pin.

The wing seat was sealed against fuel and rain by taping plan protector to the wing then running a bead of silicone sealant on the seat. The wing was then bolted on and left to set overnight.

Thread: WolstonFlyer's Tucano
12/03/2013 23:26:07

Wot, no `A` ? Join the Aylesbury club and we shall get you through in time for Greenacres.

Thread: Martin's i.c. Tucano
12/03/2013 23:15:19

An update. As usual lots of work done but not a lot to show for it.

The wing and fus have had the yellow trim added and the tail and fin strakes laminated from 1/16 med. balsa and cross grained 1/64 birch ply using Wykes PVA and ironed together. The covering was done and they were finally cut and chamfered to fit.

Some film was cut away for glueing.

Not quite as to scale at the rear end as I would have liked but it will have to do.

Couple more shots of the two side by side showing the cowl painted ready for clear fuel proof laquer.

Thread: What type of aircraft do you fly the most?
10/03/2013 22:27:16

Interesting that only 4% said 3D since there seems to be a huge selection on offer out there, each much better than the rest and the subject of many press reviews to the point of boredom. Not my cup of tea either.

Thread: WolstonFlyer's Tucano
07/03/2013 20:20:40

Hi Wolston, adding sidethrust with washers is OK on this but for any future build it is far better to offset the firewall. Washers will dig in and cause a loose motor later so use a strip of ply, GRP or WHY. They can also be difficult to fit unless cyanoed on. A protractor and square will easily determine the angle of the former and give you the exact centre of the propshaft.

Thread: Martin's i.c. Tucano
07/03/2013 20:00:30

The tips are much more tricky. Use the high setting for your type of film and pull firmly round, a bit at a time until well over halfway. Trim off with a knife.

Seal all round with high heat. Do not shrink the surface until the complete wing is covered and do about one third of each panel top and bottom at a time to avoid warps.

The cowl is at last born and popped out of the mould easily for a change.

The flange is linished off and thin birch ply epoxied on where the fixings will be.

07/03/2013 19:50:03

Right, I think we may be over the problems so let`s look at the wing covering, bit by bit.

The inside corners are covered first as before.

The film is cut well oversize for the first lower piece. The remainder of this sheet is best suited to the upper surface of the opposite panel-you will see what I mean.

It is tacked all round the edges starting at the root and tip then the rest.

All the edges are sliced through and pulled round using medium heat.

Don`t be too fussy here about straight edges.

06/03/2013 23:10:26

Thanks for the above which I think I have now done. No time to repost today but will asap.

05/03/2013 23:49:07

Thanks again Pete, I shall look into the above tomorrow. I do find that if I hop from thread to thread then I have to log in again each time even though I always tick the `remember me` box. This just seems to be a recent thing as I never used to have any trouble with it. I cannot blame the PC because it happens on any I use, home or work.


05/03/2013 23:22:22

Thanks both. I think that the easiest way for a techno dumbo like me will be to split it up into bits. A phonecall in the middle of it probably did not help.

Will repost tomorrow.


Thread: WolstonFlyer's Tucano
05/03/2013 23:15:34

Looking very good indeed Wolston. Meticulous detail to your work. They say that when you have finished the balsa bashing, you are nearly halfway!

Thread: Martin's i.c. Tucano
05/03/2013 22:15:58

Well, I just spent ages on a detailed explanation of how to cover the wing but this must have timed out before I could send it. Most infuriating. Can this time out feature be removed please Mr mod or is there a way round it please?

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
03/03/2013 21:26:37

Back to the Solarfilm issue. After I posted about an hour ago I nipped back into the shed and covered a tail half top and bottom, this being between replying to various threads on here. I did not need balsalock, prymol or any other lotions or potions and as you may see from the pics it went on perfectly.

At the risk of some flak, which I am used to, then go for the polyester version which is easy to apply. I use ordinary Solarfilm but only in silver since it is much thicker and can be painted after a coat of Prymol. It is very false economy to go for the cheapest covering especially if you are a novice at this. Even the cheapest polyester will withstand a glowfuel onslaught without coating the edges. Solarfilm Polyester is not very much more expensive than polycabonate types.

03/03/2013 20:50:50

Nigel, if you can get anything like that I shall be your first customer. It was great for sticking on trim.

03/03/2013 20:06:35

Codename, that is for coating the outer surface prior to painting. At least, that is what I use it for.

03/03/2013 19:47:15

Phil, sorry to disagree, but Wickes works with heat on Litespan and I also use it as a heat activated contact adhesive sometimes when laminating thin balsa. I have many models built with this to prove it!

Thread: Any Quadcopter experts here?
03/03/2013 19:35:52

I am a BMFA examiner and can take people for a heli `A` test but how do I stand with these since they are quite different. I take mine to the field occasionally for a buzz but only when it is quiet and since I do not have a heli `A` myself then should I really do this?

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