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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Martin's Tucano
01/01/2013 15:03:04

Its flown! A lull in the weather tempted me to the patch which now looks like the Somme after the rain plus Larry the lamb and friends, but despite the small wheels it got up and down uneventfully. Power seems about right and after a couple of clicks of trim here and there it was soon doing loops, outsides, cubans, slow and point rolls etc. As I suspected there is too much dihedral but this can be mixed out later.

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
31/12/2012 22:36:24

Hi David,

Please see my earlier post today.

31/12/2012 14:46:12

Mike, everything is done from the outside. My canopy is fixed. It was glued to the balsa with Liquid Weld but you could use foam friendly cyano. Do not use normal cyano as it will fog the acetate. After glueing I used a very cool iron to put a 10mm wide strip of black Profilm around the outer edge. Low tack masking tape was placed over this to prevent cutting through it when adding the main covering. This means that you do not have to cut an accurate line around the canopy when adding the side and top bits. The white profilm strips were added last of all.

Martin

Thread: Martin's Tucano
30/12/2012 22:58:26

Chris, it is not on u-tube. Will try.

Thanks WF, it is a very tight squeeze but no worse than any other. 35 years since I fitted one like this.

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
30/12/2012 20:38:50

Oh dear, I shall have to get some de-bonder and start again.

30/12/2012 19:55:35

Thanks Colin. Fingers crossed. And yes, I would do it again if I bend it meantime,

PS. Phil, I did not know there was an official start date.

30/12/2012 19:38:52

Colin

Don`t even try it. Let me test fly the thing first. Final pics on Martin`s Tucano thread.

30/12/2012 19:24:32

Hi David,

It is not trim but just narrow strips of Profilm ironed on with a very cool iron otherwise the canopy will be distorted. Don`t ask me how I know this! Sticky Protrim would be much easier but the cost would be even further through the roof. These lines are not very scale-like and have been enlarged a bit just to emphasise them. I used Profilm only because the rest of the model is done in this and not much else will stick to it.

Thread: Martin's Tucano
30/12/2012 19:04:12

Yer tis-done.

Final weight ready to fly is 1438gm/3lb 2 3/4oz. Will test fly with a standard APC 10x5 which gives a draw of 425W on a nearly discharged 2200 3S TGY Nano 45-70C. Alternative props are 10x6 or 11x4 which draw about 50W more but since it becomes `lighter than air` at half stick on the 10x5 I am happy with this. The motor is a TGY prop drive 35/36 with a 60A esc.

Now just need a word with that weatherman------

I tried to upload a vid of the u/c but it did not appear. How do I do this please Mr moderator?

29/12/2012 23:17:47

A bit more. The noseleg installation showing the steering set up.

 

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 30/12/2012 22:36:20

29/12/2012 17:35:02

WF,

Looks like from the above comments that you should be OK with the GS film. This is probably the same as I got from HobbyKing to cover the wing of my large Hurri. I thought it would be silver but was actually aluminium based and with care went on OK but the paint did not stick too well despite etching with Primol, which leads me to believe that it may well be polyester based. It was very good value.

29/12/2012 17:19:54

PS

The complete weight is 6 1/2oz/180gm.

29/12/2012 17:16:57

Hi IanH,

The retract units are DSR-D ones from HobbyKing (DE) and were chosen for the length of the oleo legs which seem just about right. The noseleg was supplied with the castor back to front for some reason but this was easily reversed. There was a circlip missing but not too much of a problem. Whichever way you look at the noseleg mounting plate, one or other of the sets of coutersinks are the wrong way round but it does not really matter at that price. They work well on the bench and the rather larger set I have from the same source have functioned well for some time now.

Wiring , as you see below, could not be simpler. Just plug the three legged lead into the retract channel.

Hope this helps. The others in the range are suffixed A,B etc and have different leg configurations.

29/12/2012 11:56:54

Hi Wolston.

If you have never film covered before, I would recommend that you spend a bit more and go for Oracover (Profilm). This is polyester based and consists of three layers: the protective outer skin, the pigment layer then the adhesive. I think that the cheaper stuff is called polycarbonate which generally only has two layers, the pigment and adhesive being in one layer. This means that even the heat from your hand or less will cause this layer to irreversibly stick to itself!

Solarfilm also do a polyester type which is cheaper and quite light and the difficulty factor is about halfway between the two. Check with the supplier as to the type before purchase.

Polycarb. has the advantage that you can paint it so I only use this on my WW2 scale models. The silver stuff is also thicker and easier to apply than the solid colours which are very tricky indeed.

Most quality ARTF`s now use Oracover.

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
28/12/2012 22:08:15

Nearly done now. Phew!

Thread: Martin's Tucano
28/12/2012 22:03:36

Been bashing away. Some bits of that fus. are a devil to do with film but I don`t think it looks too bad in the end.

Quite liked that black finish and offer no apologies for copying Nigel`s. You will require 3M of it.

Roundels from Hoo Kares but modified with white Profilm. The rest of the stickers I do not have so shall continue with the installation and go fly the beast.

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
26/12/2012 17:54:09

Thats probably why we all make so many boo boos - high as kites!

Thread: Martin's Tucano
25/12/2012 22:43:34

Sorry that you cannot see very much in the last pic. but the black covering must have made everything else white-out on the phone cam.

25/12/2012 22:35:35

Rather more advanced now. All construction is done, the g/f cowl painted and the covering started.

I am now hoping for an all up weight much closer to 3lbs.

Concave fairings are always very difficult to film cover and this proved to be no exception. Would now recommend 1/64 ply rather than 1/16 balsa.

The tail is covered but not glued in place as yet since the fus. needs to be covered first.

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
25/12/2012 22:17:07

Whilst I use aliphatic resin, currently Titebond from Al`s, it is mainly to go over cyano`d joints to fill any gaps and to glue anything which requires sanding later as it sands at about the same rate as balsa. Otherwise everything is cyano`d if possible to speed building. Mine is now finished and mainly covered. How far have you got? I have models up to 1/4 scale and 28lb and they do not fall apart. Forget about the old fashioned PVA for model making. You just need super thin, medium and thick Zap, 5-min. epoxy plus the aliphatic, which is available large economically priced bottles. Cyano `kicker` is a desirable extra.

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