Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|The current BMFA guide does not specify a minimum spinner radius- don`t ask me why. Martin Mc., BMFA examiner.|
|Thread: The neighbours are complaining|
|Don`t try that with a four stroke- my Spiteful caught fire because a 4T exaust is much hotter than a 2T! Prop blade tips make a huge difference. If you have rounded tips such as the shape of a typical wingtip (not talking about APC shape-more the Super nylon), then squaring the tips as if you had done it with sandpaper on the edge of a spinning prop can save you 3dBa which is half the previous noise level. Try it. Martin Mc.|
|Thread: futaba interference|
|Glitches usually go the same way for a given set up, ie., right/down. I recently had a similar problem when, nomatter what sort of Rx I fitted, the model (ic) would glitch badly, despite the receivers being flown OK in other models. The servos were replaced one at a time. Mistake. Two coreless servos were each causing the problem. When replaced as a pair the glitching disappeared. If your model is electric, could it be that you are trying to operate too many, or too high a current drain servos from your ESC? Try fitting a UBEC (try ebay) which will allow you to operate four or more servos from a 3-cell Lipo pack. These are typically 3A rated. It worked for me. Martin Mc.|
|You are all talking rubbish! If you want (why?) expo on throttle just experiment with moving the servo or throttle arm off centre. Martin Mc.|
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit|
|Thanks Tony, will remove and reset the tail again. CofG does not seem to be any problem. I have run it into the long grass and it does not tip over. Would at a guess be OK with it even more rearward. The RAF 30 tail section (modified) has proven to be OK on a Spiteful (not a recommended subject to model). Martin Mc.|
|Graham, it comes in 125ml tins which will do several Spits and a Lancaster to boot! Even Humbrol enamel which is an expensive alternative, would only require 1-2 tinlets of each colour, because it covers better. I use this for roundels etc., applying to plain paper circles which are then glued together with PVA and centred with a pin. Just apply to the model and smooth down with a cool iron. PVA acts as a contact adhesive if applied to each surface, but it takes a little practice. Martin|
|Graham, I used Spectra (previously Spectrum I believe) on top of primol coated silver Solarfilm (which, incidentally, is much easier to apply than the solid colours) , the first coat of each colour being applied slightly thinned with Spectrum thinner, then a full strength coat of each, applying the lighter colours first then, when complete, making the contours with 4mm wide strips of masking tape. I applied the second coat as soon as the first was dry (about one hour) then removed the masking when dried to a matt finish so that the masking tape adhesive did not get time to set hard. Any rivet or panel lines you wish to add should be done prior to painting. By that I mean raised (rivets) or indented (panel lines) . When completely dry you may add pencil/ink lines then roundels/ transfers. The whole model should then be Tuffcoated using a 3/4-1" very soft brush. I normally mix gloss and matt 50/50 but it seems that the latest batch of Tuffcoat matt is not so matt as it used to be so you may wish to use neat matt. Must take this up with Ripmax. Do not rely on the Spectra alone to be fuel proof especially if you use any nitro at all in your fuel. Coat the canopy with gloss Tuffcoat. Martin.|
|Gary, what an interesting and informative club website you have - more should follow suit. your Spit build so far looks great so the best of luck. MM.|
Hi Graham, don`t worry about the weight, mine is now 7lbs 10oz inc. the 9oz noseweight and the two heavy metal geared digi servos behind the cg. If you are using a single retract servo near the wing L.E. as suggested you should not require so much lead, but I think that some will be needed. The model is not heavily wing loaded. My retract equipped smaller version with a similar set up weighs 3lbs 9oz as against the original quoted 2lbs 8oz and is very reluctant to spin let alone stall. No problems there with the 63 either. The cg is exactly the same percentage of the wing chord in each case. Tried the laser level today - confirms that the tail is still one deg. too negative despite a previous change of 1.25 deg. The plan appears to be correct; apologies to Tony. Must be something to do with the centre line distorting when pulling the rear fus together around the curves. Strange that it did not happen with the smaller one though. Being basically an aerobatic flier, I am always normally careful to get the decalage correct.
Do not use excessive control surface throws on this model as they are all fairly sensitive. If you can, try around 40-50% expo on aileron and elevator.
Don`t know what motor you intend to use but as a guide the YS is a bit of an overkill. MM.
|Help needed by Tony Nijhuis maybe? Finished the 63" Spit. Solarfilm/Spectra finish, YS63S, built-up tail and fin as is my usual with this type of design, retracts using two metal gear digi servos with servo slows to give scale speeds, loads of detail, BUT! It flies like a pig! I need lots of down trim, power on or off. The C of G is on the rearmost limit with 9oz lead up front - blame the retract servos rear of the cg for that (see later). I checked the wing and tail incidences and decided that my tail could be out a little, so removed and reset it to the plan. Result? less down trim but still does not want to fly level. Tried downthrust but no better. I have been flying the smaller version since Christmas and it is faultless, also having two retract servos behind the cg, OS26S and no noseweight. One of my favourite models. Is there a problem with the plan? Cannot detect any differences between the two re incidence. My tail now actually LOOKS at a positive incidence to the fus centre line. Got access to a laser incidence checker tomorrow so I shall see if that reveals the culprit. Anyone else flown one yet? PS. Gary, solarfilm, when painted, hardly wrinkles at all in the sun. Martin.|
|Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz|
|Thanks Timbo - don`t let go of that desk though. MM.|
|Thread: MDS 40 won`t start|
|Only just seen this thread. When I took up the hobby again after a nine year enforced layoff, I bought a few mags to see just what people were using and guess what? All of the reviewers were raving about MDS so I bought a 48. Starting on the bench was easy, but the throttle kept jamming at high, which reprofiling of the carb. slot cured. Not very helpful when it is shaped like a letter `P`. Usual Enya 3 was useless. I fitted a cooler plug and upped the nitro to 10%. Bingo! Idle perfect Very powerful motor, excellent piston/liner set-up , but it cools too quickly on the ground. It now languishes in a drawer until it becomes a museum piece, unless of course you want to buy a rare, running, MDS? Martin Mc.|
|Thread: Starting out`|
No,no, what I meant was to start with a cheap set as an intro to the hobby as it stands now, get used to the current pegboard system, get your hard landings out of the way with the cheapo, then if you find that the hobby suits you, go buy the best system that you are likely to require way into the future and which you can afford. My other Tx`s at the moment are just a JR 3810 and a 388. Excellent but they are both now long in the tooth and having spent the minimum possible on a 2.4 to see if the system is as good as it is cracked up to be I shall now wait for one of the better offerings to come because I am sure that it will outlast me! Martin.
PS I was able to buy an afforementioned MPX set in the early 80`s. It cost an arm and a leg at the time but I had an insurace payout when some b-----d nicked all my competition models and gear. It was the most reliable set I have ever owned. No failures whatsoever in twelve years.
|Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz|
|The reason that I would not at the moment put a lipo pack in a Tx is that out of the eight or so that I have bought, two have suffered from cell swelling, despite being very carefully used well within their C rating along with lipo guards and balancers. Don`t mind that happening on the bench but not in my tranny! These were what is considered top of the range packs too. Anyone know where I can buy single cells to repair the packs since I too am on a budget and cannot keep going out and spending 25 to 100 quid each time one requires replacing. Martin Mc.|
|Thread: Starting out`|
|Timbo, I agree with you on most of that, but some of us require more than 7 channels. My 1/9 and 1/7 scale Nihuis Spits both use 7 channels. My Rutan Cozy requires 9, and my unfinished Lanc. will need rather more than that. Depends on what you like to fly. Martin.|
|Thread: Futaba 6ex 2.4 gHz|
|`Cos I did not fancy that strange dual Rx set up. Also I thought that I would give Futaba a try. Will stick to JR in the future.MM. PS. my experience with lipos would not give me enough confidence to entrust them to a Tx. Cannot see the point either. MM.|
|Thread: Starting out`|
|Timbo, guess what, I disagree with that statement! I suggested a 35mHz as a starter because it will be with us for some time to come and will teach a tyro pegboard routine. They may well become an instructor or even examiner very soon and must learn the basics. Also, 2.4, although not new technology, is still in its infancy re model flying and does not as yet offer a top range set of gear, so if the perfomance of my basic set is anything to go by, will be worth the wait. I have to admit that I did not consider teaming the two systems with a buddy lead. MM.|
|1)Join a club with a proper training programme, even if this entails driving a few more miles. 2) Use whatever gear the locals do so that you will be able to fly with a buddybox. Buy the cheapest NEW gear compatible with the above and when proficient, you will be in a better position to decide on your next outfit, which should be a top range set and will last you for many years. There is nothing wrong with 35mHz gear, so this would be a good starting point. By the time you are proficient 2.4 will have advanced a lot so I would advise you to wait a bit, because the buddybox system will probably not be available on this frequency at your club as yet. Regards,MM.|
|Thread: Arising Star|
|3/16 ply? I doubt it. Most likely laminated from two pieces of 3mm liteply. Available from any model shop. Sounds like a bit of an overkill to me. Must weigh a ton! By the way, I offer a build/repair service. Regards, MM.|
|Thread: DIY hinges|
|Alvin, no, you have got it wrong. Zap-a-gap is medium thick/ slow ca. You must insert the hinge first then apply very thin ca so that it capilliaries into the hinge and the wood. You do not apply ca to the hinge first! MM.|
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