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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Blue Foam
11/10/2007 22:42:00
Yes, I have tried this stuff in many situations and it seems to be as good as epoxy without the cost, mess, but I do not know about the smell! It can really reek if it is getting on a bit
Thread: servo's
11/10/2007 22:29:00
Don`t underestimate the thirst of digi servos. I recently re-equipped a small aerobat with digis which previously required a recharge of a meagre 105mAh after three flights. It now needs 300mAh after just two. Linkages etc. are the same. They just buzz drawing current with the mere weight of the control surface pushing against the servo. Much, much better model control though.
Thread: Typhoon builders discussion thread
05/10/2007 20:35:00
That short nose puts me off I am afraid, but maybe this reduced size version will be a hit after all. You just need a smaller motor and canopy.
Thread: Control Rods
04/10/2007 22:33:00
Timbo, must have been some previous post-cannot recollect it though (senior moment). Do we know each other? Ever been a member of the s/c Fradley club?  I hope that this topic is of use to any beginners in general as we as usual have strayed way off the original question!    
04/10/2007 22:24:00
Timbo, glad we agree on something at last!
04/10/2007 22:18:00
Yeah, 40 does mean this size of motor but there are lots of variations between manufacturers. Best to measure your motor or take it with you to the model shop.
04/10/2007 21:54:00
Shaun, you need a larger mount. Nuts and bolts will probably vibrate off on the first flight with this type of mount.
04/10/2007 21:37:00
Shaun, back to your engine mount. If the rear end fits then it is normal for the front to have to be bent out slightly but you should not have to force the motor in such that the front end then splays outwards. If this is so, then get a different mount or relieve the rear end a bit The motor should sit parallel without too much stress on the mount. I normally use No.6 self tappers on a nylon mount, which will require drilling to 3mm. Good idea about the glass tape. 2-3" wide should be about right but ensure that you use epoxy rather than polyester resin cos the latter will disolve the foam underneath unless it is fast setting. Use the minimum possible ammount of resin. If the wing is already covered you will need to remove some covering around the centre.
04/10/2007 21:02:00
Most of today`s so called trainers seem way overpowered, fly like missiles and are a compromise re dihedral to keep them stable, or lack of to make the ailerons work. It does make a novice fairly competent by the time they reach their A test though. I would recommend something like a Limbo Dancer or a Cougar, with greatly reduced throws, since they are very forgiving and easy to fly, and do not have that silly, weak, noseleg which `trainer` manufacturers insist on fitting. Of course there is always the sensible Super 60?????
04/10/2007 20:32:00
Shaun, please do not ever try to glue a clevis of any type to a metal rod unless you know a lot about types of adhesive and suitable etching fluids. I would go with the solder bucket adaptor. Most control rods are about 1/16" dia. made of very soft steel and can be Z bent with a strong pair of long nosed pliers. If you wish to solder steel, as I do, use Telux flux from a hardware store-do not rely on flux cored solder for this type of job. It is too important.
Thread: Power Panels
04/10/2007 19:44:00
Try that with a YS!
Thread: Nihuis Spits
04/10/2007 17:51:00
Thanks to your much appreciated help. Used Corel photoshop 1X in the end. Martin.
Thread: Power Panels
04/10/2007 12:49:00
Timbo, I use the TO 220 plastic package because it is a lot cheaper and the 4mm ali lid to the box forms the heatsink.
Thread: Control Rods
03/10/2007 22:52:00
Only just looked at this post - the mere thought of wobbly artfcumdontknowhowtodoitanyotherway plastic snakes just makes me cringe!
Thread: Power Panels
03/10/2007 22:36:00
Having tried many methods including glowsticks which I regard as being under voltage for a 1.5V plug, downright dangerous when they decide to fall off and of low capacity, I now use a home made unit using a LM338K variable regulator which can be switched between 1.25V and 1.45V. I have only needed the 1.25V setting so far, because it is regulated no matter what the load. It requires a minimum input of only 3.6V derived from any old `past it`nicads, even used in parrallel and only two or three other components with a three position switch and can be strung together without the need for a circuit board. Cannot give drawings here, but if any R/Cers want to try it just contact me at
Thread: gliders
03/10/2007 22:04:00
Wot if one servo fails at full travel? Hold full up/down and hope for the best!
Thread: 2.4ghz a warning.....
03/10/2007 21:57:00
Scott, you do not have to spend £200 on a camera system. A 10mW 100M range set can be readily bought for £21, and a 200mw, yes, 200! for £28. I have tried the 10mW in a 35mHz set up and it exceeds its stated range but would not care to try either in a 2.4gHz model since even the low power unit would surely swamp the Rx. I totally agree that these should only be used under controlled conditions when no other 2.4 equipment is in use. I do not really foresee people wanting to video every single flight - just occasionally when other fliers should be made aware  of the situation.
Thread: Balance point
02/10/2007 17:48:00
On low wing models I use a piece of string lightly clamped between the fus. and wing to suspend the model from. Measure from the LE to the string to get each side the same.
Thread: Tx programming
30/09/2007 18:39:00
Got to add my tuppenies worth to this. Flew in a glider duration-type comp. today using my JR 3810 which I decided to reprogramme as JR intended instead of my version so that I could incorporate camber/reflex. First problem after decoding the Japglish was that the ailerons would not follow the flaps in the downward direction but did so in the `up`. The programme evidently does the mixing for you and although they say that you may need to fine tune there does not appear to be any way to do this. Any ideas please? Coupled with other self-induced problems I managed to be the last place winner having won the comp. a month ago! MM.
Thread: Typhoon builders discussion thread
30/09/2007 18:07:00
Kieth, building from a split plan is very easy if you just carbon trace the essential components of the rear end on to plain paper and Sellotape the two together at the join line. MM.
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