Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Martin's i.c. Tucano|
I said sometime earlier that I may do a smelly i.c. one of these and a little larger. Having built and flown Nigel`s version I got to quite like it, so I have designed one for 52-63 power with the retracts again and this time flaps to boot. The wing structure is almost identicle to my earlier one and will not go into this beyond the pics to follow. It is hopefully reasonably to scale. The fus design is not completed as yet since I have only just received the canopy from Vortex (380mm, CN32), but will post pics as it progresses.
So that is as far as I have got, plus the tail which is from built up consruction. Much more to follow.
|Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread|
I am starting a thread with this one entitled Martins i.c. Tucano which is entirely from scratch and not just a scaled up version.
Hi Lucas, I probably will not do a blog as such for this one as the wing construction is virtually identical to the smaller version and is now near completion of the structure anyway. I only received the canopy yesterday so can now continue with the fus drawing which will have to be to a width to accommodate this. Once I have worked out the former sizes and shapes I shall make a start and post some pics here. I only work to a basic outline plan and make it up as I go along but could do one if required.
|Thread: I need help/advice regarding solarfilm issue good people!|
Cellulose thinners will disolve and remove the last bits but it is a long job.
|Thread: Kit's 72" Spit build|
I use a Laser 180 and the power is just about right. Not too much. Fits invisibly.
|Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread|
Hi Nigel, I omitted to say that unfortunately I cannot locate that MFA reduction unit I mentioned to you earlier.
Hi Nigel, I liked this so much that a second is already under way, this time 61.5" span, YS powered with the retracts again plus flaps. Scaled from a full size drawing found on the internet. Someone wondered what I shall be doing for 2013 having built the first one already so now they will know.
BEB, point taken thanks but this should never have been allowed to happen in the first place. I think that this is a viable point to be aired because we must keep plan building alive and well and not put off prospective builders with this sort of event.
I am apalled to hear that packs are being sent out with 3/16 x2 instead of the correct 3/8. Just who makes this rubbish? Much like the Nihuis 72" Spit pack which I have critisised severely in former posts. I assume that they ran out of 3/8 and are just passing this off. Send it straight back to them and demand a total refund; also a a strong email to the editorial staff of RCM&E who are ultimately responsible for ensuring the quality of the merchandise marketed for their plans.
This sort of irresponsible stuff just puts people off trying to revert to basic modelling and is not representative of what we normally expect.
I have buit from truly superb plan packs in the past with CNC cut parts from the same source so why can they not do it now?
If you really must laminate that 3/16 then only use aliphatic resin. Place a piece of chipboard on top and weigh down well overnight then it should not warp.
You would be much better off just cutting wood to the plan as there is very little of this to do.
I generally get my wood from Balsa Cabin if buying on the internet and they will supply exactly what you require every time.
Hi David, there is some detail of how I did mine on a slightly earlier post. May even be on `Martin`s Tucano`
That stuff worked well Chris. I only remember ever needing one bottle. Obviously removed from the market to make us buy the expensive trim.
Trim is much easier to use but you should be fine with the film. Very little heat will be required.
No, that is not a daft question. The plan view of the fus. shows the maximum width at the bottom of the formers. F2 goes inside the 5mm sides and F4 sits over the outside at a wider point. However, I seem to remember cutting this down on mine to get it to fit after the front top deck was shaped. It is not at all important and the canopy will fit to whatever shape this ends up.
I always use UHU POR to stick the harder part of the velcro to the model and rely on the adhesive on the softer part to adhere to the Rx or esc. Use the POR on a battery because of the greater load. My glow/petrol models have the Rx`s fitted in a similar manner as the velcro provides quite good vibration cushioning and it is easy then to fix the short 2.4 antennae to the fus. with velcro strips.
David, my lipo and esc are installed almost opposite each other above the wing with no cooling and they do not even get warm,so no worries.
|Thread: WolstonFlyer's Tucano|
Think about this before you go any further. A wing join in the centre will suffer very little strain. One on the fuselage line will have to take an enormous load when up elevator is applied. Try holding a piece of balsa over the edge of your bench then applying downward pressure. Where does it break? Not where your holding hand is.
I have not looked at Phil`s drawing but why put a tongue at the rear and the bolts at the front? I know it has a rectangular section but look at almost any other model plan and you will see that it is the other way round for a very good reason.
The aileron servo. Since the wing is now to be removable there is no reason why this should not be let in to the wing and simply coupled to the torque rods.
That`s it! Make the tail in a similar fashion and cut the elevators out afterwards. I do not see the need to make the wing centre section flat-my built up one does not have this. Use a 1" wide lightply plate for the tongue at the front because it is much easier to align with a slot in the former than dowels.
WF, what I meant was, I hope that they are shaped to the wing section before you join them because you would find this very difficult afterwards. Best to lay them both flat on the board, spot glued together and shaped as one piece, including the ailerons. Mark the centre all round with a pen between your finger and thumb first. You can then cut at the centre, cut out the ailerons then bevel the centre and join.
Whilst it is a good idea to get each wing half the same weight/density the model is best balanced on a test flight. Simply fly exactly downwind at height, close the throttle and push into a half outside loop, ensuring that the wings are level. Observe which wing is low at the bottom and add a little weight to the opposite tip. You will only require a small nail with the head cut off and pushed into the tip.
WF. I would use epoxy to join a wing as thin as this. Aliphatic will shrink so much that there will be very little glue left in a butt joint such as this.
|Thread: UKCAA - Models, engines and schedules|
Hi J2W, I get your point about the tailslide, very unpredictable. The rolling circle must surely have started and finished with a 1/4 roll though.
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