Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
A couple of quick snaps now that I think it is finished. Last minute jobs included fitting the fin, rudder servo, Rx and battery velcro. The cg was checked and found to be a little rearward so I added 80gm as far forward as possible. If I had been using 4s then the pack would have been 120gm heavier anyway. AUW is a bit more than that stated.
Ran the fans again but they do not all seem to come on song together. Despite the esc`s being programmed the same it takes a few seconds. I would need to dig out the Rx, reconnect three of the positive wires and run them individually somehow to check this, but plenty of time for that.
I have had the Hunter plan blown up to 133% to fit that 64mm unit sent in error so will start a blog on it when I get going.
|Thread: Tufcote / Furniglass|
I agree Peter,
It was available in 500ml cans which were a boon when you needed to spray the the stuff. Take my word for it, PV67 is as near as you can get now.
It is certainly Sadolin PV67 in 1lt cans. Smells, tastes, mixes and works just the same as Tufkote.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
Just had a reply from TN. The elevator travel should be 15mm. He says it is on the plan somewhere but I could not find it.
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Hunter & Phantom|
Hi Tony, I have just emailed you regarding the elevator travel on the Concorde which is nearly finished but I shall have to wait a long time for our patch to dry out.
Next in line is my version of your Hunter. I got sent a 64mm fan in error but decided to keep it anyway and have had your plan scaled up to 133% for this. Looking forward to the build which should be quite quick. Should just about be able to get my hand round the fus. to launch it.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
I after many hours and unsuccessful googling I managed to persuade the plotter s/w to do what I wanted by a very roundabout route and have cut the doors. Here is the result of my efforts.
I hope that the vinyl stays on the model because I know of nothing which they could be coated with that would go over polyester covering.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
If you can still find anywhere selling it, Fairy Power Spray is very effective on grunged up engines and exhausts. Just leave it on for a while then wash off.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
I`m afraid that unless I can find somewhere else for a test flight it will not be before the summer. Actually got to the patch today for the first time since September due mainly to the weather, to do a little flying and run a BBQ would you believe. Patch is a quagmire.
Still playing with my plotter trying to make it cut a shape outline only. Will google for some advice on this and to make it send a test copy to an ordinary printer to save wasting Vinyl.
I do try to construct a lot of different types, the more difficult the better. I now have at least six which need either a maiden or a test flight after major repairs.
I tried thinned PVA on my Ohmen for the first time and it worked well. Tested Cover Grip where the balsa meets the g.f. nose and this looked OK so went ahead and did mainly the underside where I expected adhesion problems.
Never fancied dope because it could blister with the heat and maybe trap air, as in film over film.
Still feeling sorry for myself and snuffling and coughing I have emerged from the shed having got quite a bit done.
I am not normally fazed by covering but this has to be the most difficult one yet. The underside is a bit lumpy due to that Cover Grip but most of the top is OK. Adding 1/4" strips to the wing/fus joins was a real boon. The model being long makes handling difficult.
I have cut the windows with my Silhouette Portrait vinyl plotter. 0.22"x0.18" is very small and there are nearly 100 of them. One side done. I have yet to work out how to do the door outlines.
I added a bit of split carbon tube to the underside of the nose because it is very weak here.
Thought that this would add a bit of authenticity to the model.
I think my fears were unfounded. With four elevons and three retracts operating together they only drew a peak current of 1.6A, 1.2A for the servos alone.
Have been mulling over the possibilities this morning. It would be nice to drive the servos from one BEC and the Rx from another but would involve Y leads or specially made adapters as I see it. Altogether too complex.
About to make up some test leads to hook up a 2s Life to the Wattmeter so the readings will be a tad higher than 5.5V. Will keep you posted.
The escs have a 5.5V, 5A BEC so this should do the job other than I had to extend the leads and used lighter duty cable than the original but the extensions are quite short. I have, of course, removed the positive wire from three of them. Will attempt a test with everything connected other than the fan motors soon.
A bit more.
I seem to have hijacked this thread a little but hope to hear soon how others are tackling the various problems.
Bit the bullet today and bought a Prolux LCD sealing iron in an effort to get to the parts other beers cannot reach. Not very impressed and the shoe is too wide to do the bits between the nacelle inner and the fus centre. It seems to take forever to reach and change temperature compared with my trusty Argos travel iron which can do this in seconds. I tried a similar one back in the seventies and found it to be very unwieldy so gave up with that. I found that if my Protech detailing iron is left on for long enough it will actually seal the HK covering.
Watch out when covering close to the acetate thrust tubes or you could melt them!
Still undecided as to whether a single BEC will power 10 servos including the retracts so shall rig up something to check the peak servo current using a Wattmeter. Don`t really understand why you can only use one of these from the four available.
Thanks for the compliments and comments, but unless I hear otherwise from TN I shall increase it a bit. Deltas are almost impossible to stall and tend to come in at a large angle of attack. Found out much about this with my 362 and ran out of up. Anyway, I always test fly with rates set up and a large amount of expo.
I have already found some errors on the plan, and omissions are not uncommon when they are re drawn.
Came down with the dreaded lurgy in the middle of the night so may as well bury myself in the shed for the week since I expect not to want to do much else.
Wish me luck with the rest of that covering; I think I shall need it.
Now got the nose `fettled` as he says, painted and working well.
I normally find covering a model to be fairly easy, but not so in this case. Getting that first nacelle done was no simple job, and I still need to figure out how to get the iron I have into the space between them and the centre. 20 odd years ago I bought a detailing iron but it hardly got hot enough to do ordinary Solarfilm. I hit on the idea of heating this further with my normal iron turned right up. This works on those tight joins, much better than a heated ruler.
I read that Cover Grip was the stuff to use on those awkward bits, and having tried PVA once before I gave it a go.
Never again. My lovely smooth finish looked like tree bark in places and refused to sand back down. Will just have to live with it as is.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 22/12/2019 20:49:10
|Thread: Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed|
North Bucks would you believe. Loads of heating oil suppliers but none with local yards. Nearest I could find is 22 miles away, other than a boatyard at 18 miles, 99p/l.
Do you think that there is a price advantage over red diesel? I could only buy this localish for 99p/l. When I had a turbine I had to travel a long way to get kerosine but cannot remember the price. My heater works just fine on diesel at 125p/l.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
The nose hinge so far.
The plan shows the aileron deflection but not the elevator unless I have missed something. I would have thought somewhat more than the 8mm aileron movement if my experience of deltas is correct.
Got my grp version of the nose now and it turned out great but has nearly driven me mad getting everything fitted together. Just about to pop back into the shed and attempt to fit the hinge.
The wing edges gave been sanded to shape and the elevons made, also some covers for the servos and the rear wing fillets done.
I was getting worried that this thread had died.
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