Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
I believe that I got a duff version of the plan. Mine flies with an unbelievable amount of down trim, it looks like full down elevator but does not affect the model in any way. Tried packing up the top wing TE a little but that made little difference so I have left as it is. Since the fus. sides are constructed over the plan with 1/4 sq. spruce it would have been difficult for me to have got this wrong but just be warned. I understand that mine is not the only one to turn out like that.
The only changes I made were to replace the nasty die crunched wing ribs with light 1/8th balsa ones and strengthen the wing centre sections with 1/8th birch ply.
Following advice on here, mine balances at 1" forward of the upper wing TE. Never tried moving it. Weight as built 6.2kg so yours should be fine. 18x8 on the Laser works well for me.
|Thread: Failsafe...no idea|
I too have never had a duff servo from HK and the same goes for extention leads although I normally make my own but I often buy the ones with safety clips and pinch them for mine.
I did get a u/s four stroke petrol and an expensive ESC but they were refunded/exchanged with no fuss.
I do think that a naming and shaming section on this forum would be a good idea so that the bad boys can be brought to attention but it may ruffle a few feathers.
Oh, I thought it was another well known internet seller.
Now I know that they supposedly were Tower Pro, I think that you will find they are poor copies. Never buy servos on ebay as this situation is more likely than not. I got caught out the same with two types of TP, mg 16 and mg90`s. One sort ran to one end due to inferior material connecting the pot. centre and if I manually stopped the others they would not restart without Tx stick input. Indistinguishable from the real thing.
Buy extention leads from HobbyKing, they are excellent quality and exactly the same ones which you can pay a fortune for in this country.
We all know who you are talking about regarding the dead servos and sending a video of them not working!
I have a TGY i10 and i6 from them. The blurb clearly states that they will work with the 10ch, iA6 park fly and iA6B full range Rx`s but the i10 Tx will not bind with iA6`s. They insisted that it will and wanted a video of it not binding would you believe. Never having done youtube in my life I managed it and also forwarded a rather more professional one of the same by another guy. They would not budge so I sent back the Tx and all of the iA6`s and told them to return them bound. They did nothing with it so I said to send it all back which they did except they sent a new complete system instead of my own so I lost all the programs but did gain a free 10ch Rx.
What exactly are the type of servos you have?
|Thread: SC 70 fs|
It may need a couple of tanks of the dreaded castor fuel through it to re establish the piston/valve seals.
|Thread: Failsafe...no idea|
It probably won`t. They scarcely lose any charge over time. Ensure that you use a LiFe charger for it, not the one supplied with the Tx or you may end up with a fire on your hands.
From your posts you really do need a lot of hands on help. Spitfire? Forget it for a long time.
|Thread: Battery options|
On that size of model I now use 2x LiFe 1800 (they need the nose weight) but 2x 1100 LiFe is still an overkill. Ignition is one 700 LiFe via a 5V regulator (UBEC) in my case. The Rx packs feed into a Failover switch (HK) which then provides two power inputs to the Rx if you wish to use them both. Very reliable so far.
|Thread: Failsafe...no idea|
Throttle cut is not what the o.p. was asking for. It is a reversion to pre programmed servo positions on loss of signal.
I mainly use JR Tx`s, not Spektrum, but the general way to set it with these systems is to insert a bind plug into the bind socket, connect power to a spare channel, set the sticks to neutral other than the throttle which should be set to low, press and hold the Tx bind button if it has one then switch it on whilst holding in the button. Wait for the Rx LED to go on solid instead of flashing then turn everything off and remove the bind plug.
Alternatively there may be the `smart safe` option where you follow the above but after powering up the Rx you remove the bind plug then carry on as normal.
Power up again, set the throttle to high, turn off the Tx and the throttle servo should go to low.
There may be differences on DSM2/DSMX.
This is a legal requirement if the gear is equipped with a failsafe mode.
The instructions which came with the Tx`s if you have them will detail this; you can always google and download.
PS. You need to do this again after the model has been flown and the trims set.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 20/02/2020 14:03:08
|Thread: Pushrod connectors|
I got mine from B&Q. Don`t know if Telux is still available but any DIY or plumbers merchant should have mild, none corrosive flux. The stuff inside Multicore solder is just not powerful enough for piano wire.
Hi, I have attempted to send this to the people who have requested it but apologies about the jumbled up pics and out of date part No.s. The flux may not be available now but any substitute should be only active when hot. The text can be opened with `word`.
Hi Bruce, for certain reasons I would prefer that it is not put on this forum, but if I can mail it to people that is OK (provided that I can work out how to send it on again). Just PM me and it is free for publication anywhere else.
Forgive me if I go on a bit here but it may be of interest to others on this forum.
I have always preferred the SLEC translucent ones for most models requiring 2mm ball joints. Unfortunately they had a problem at one time in the production of the balls so took them off the market and replaced with totally useless black ones. They are now back, but, and it is a big but, they are a bit tight. The solution is simple. Grab a ball in long nosed pliers and heat with a heat gun then apply the socket briefly. This removes any moulding flash and makes them as free as a bird yet with no play.
Regarding soldering, it was a major part of my profession. I use a Metcal soldering station but at £250 plus £12 at least for the bits, which control the temperature, it is a little expensive for modellers so a simple station from, say, CPC is ideal. Forget a fixed temperature iron - useless.
PM me if you want a copy of an article I once wrote on the subject and I shall try to send it to you.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 17/02/2020 20:00:01
You really need to learn to solder joints properly in this hobby. All of the models depicted above have either 2mm or 3mm threaded rod at one end and a brass tube soldered to another threaded rod at the other. Ball links used throughout and as much adjustment as you would ever need. Many of my models are 10-20 years old and never a failure in that department.
The reason I said indoor is because the loads are negligible, they can`t fly far and most are pretty much crash proof!
You are certainly not alone when it comes to lack of field visits. In September I got in a couple of test flights prior to going to the mag. bash at Buckminster. The only other time was the day after Boxing Day when I did our now annual BBQ despite feeling very unwell. Soggy, unusable parking area, rain, and high winds to blame.
Hence a lot of shed time and a long queue of models needing a maiden/test flight.
Its not the grub screws which bother me but the stuff passed off as piano wire these days. Many (most) retract legs are held like this and I get sick of them coming loose due to digging into the wire legs, often after only one flight.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
I am surprised that the FMS units are loose. I see that you used the cnc pack so I cannot speak for that. I used Powerfun fans which require a larger hole than that shown on the plan anyway. The bits between the ridges on these needed packing with 1/64th ply to get everything to fit. You could try thin card for the tubes. It is easier to work with.
My FMS unit has arrived for the Gnat and fits the hole I cut to the plan perfectly. The Powerfun ones come with the bell mouth sellotaped to them so try this. The FMS one I have hot glued to the former whilst fitting the fan.
|Thread: Pushrod connectors|
I really cannot understand why people insist on using these screw to a piece of piano wire things. Sooner or later the screw will bite into the softer wire and be loose. Loctite will not stop this.
It must be due to many ARTF`s being supplied with them because they are easy to fit and the manufacturers cannot be bothered to supply proper linkages. Newbies therefore think that these are the norm.
Suitable for indoor models only.
|Thread: TN Folland Gnat|
Did not see the bit about inserting the wings separately so too late now. As on my TN Hunter plus I shall cover as much as possible before assembly.
Fus. sides now glued together and the fan installed.
Beautiful job Mike. Did you cover the parts before final assembly or after it was all glued together? That black fin should make it more visible.
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