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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
04/04/2019 17:12:48

Easier said. I was trying to assemble the original wheel doors with m2 bolts at the time and the damned thing was about to land on my nose. A queen`s sting must be quite powerful since they use it to kill off rival newly hatched ones (or is that bees?). A few years ago a giant hornet at least 3" long emerged from the roof, a couple of feet from where I was working. It looked like a sparrow as it flew off over the house roof.

04/04/2019 16:23:01

Now nearly completed, but: there was this wasp. I could hear the familiar low drone of a newly hatched queen but could not tell if it was outside or just emerged from hibernation in my shed. I used to be super sensitive to their stings so give them a very wide berth. Next thing I knew it was buzzing around my face very angrily because it could not find the way out. I fled for the door but unfortunately my fus. was propped up against the bench in between and in my haste it came a cropper, damaging a tail tip, a big dent at the top and worst of all the irreplaceable canopy was cracked. Dents done and currently trying to do something with the canopy.

The u/c doors have given me quite a headache since the retracts are very different on this one. I first tried to space them away from the legs but they looked awful. I have just realised that if I cut the wing slots wider they would fit easily without spacers so this has been done today. Currently painting them and that should be it.

I was hoping to get it to the field soon to take more pics, run up the Laser and maybe even maiden it but this will have to wait until the weather improves again.

Final weight is a very pleasing 13 lbs 2 oz (5.95 kg) with the lighter wheels fitted, a saving of 4 lbs 14 oz.. CG is spot on with the 270gm of lead in the nose and a composite prop.

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
02/04/2019 18:42:44

Thanks for enlightening me.

Thread: A sticky glassing problem!
01/04/2019 18:45:51

Having been bitten a few times by some brands of epoxy I now only use Multipurpose resin from ABL Resin and Glass in Sandbach. Easily mixed 2:1 by volume but you really do have to mix it well until the result is clear. I use this for moulding and skinning. (Avoid their General Purpose stuff though.) It always sets hard enough to sand easily after 48 hrs.

Very surprised that the thicker overlapped areas will not set since these should be the hardest; as has been said above this is probably due to insufficient mixing. Acetone dissolves epoxy so a wipe over with this may remove the stickiness, otherwise just re coat the affected parts.

Thread: Mills 0.75 piston and conrod replacement
01/04/2019 18:17:31

Whilst we are talking about Mills, does anyone out there have a spare compression screw for a .75? I have original .75 and 1.3 Mk 1`s from around 1946 plus a later .75 and 1.3. Only one compression screw to share between the .75`s.

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
01/04/2019 18:07:32

Never watched slope soarers, but do you actually intend to chuck that lovely Typhoon over the edge of a cliff? What does PSS stand for, I always thought that it was Powered Slope Soaring? Sorry for my ignorance of this popular discipline.

Thread: Setting up for Flaps
29/03/2019 19:45:41

Best of luck with the maiden, glad that we were of help.

28/03/2019 18:14:00

Hi Geoff, I have tried to photograph the relevant bits from my DSX9 but the Mk1 having no backlight made it difficult. This is for my Organic which uses a single central flap servo and a V tail but these bits are easily changed. Watch out for the left hand lever since it will operate flaps and cannot be disabled.

organic program 001.jpg

organic program 002.jpg

organic program 003.jpg

organic program 003.jpg

organic program 004.jpgorganic program 005.jpg

organic program 006.jpg

organic program 007.jpg

organic program 008.jpg

organic program 011.jpgorganic program 012.jpg

Sorry, a couple are duplicated but could not get rid of them.

27/03/2019 17:30:44

You need the settings for your DSX9, nothing else. As I said above, just google it.

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
26/03/2019 23:17:47

P.S.

I could lose a further 150g by using some non scale looking and slightly smaller 3.75" wheels. They would mean less lead up front as well but we shall see what the actual AUW is at the end of the day.

26/03/2019 23:01:07

Thanks Geoff.

Well, I was trying to put off getting an all up weight until the very end but with all (well most) bits added including 270g of lead to get the cg at least close it comes out at 13lbs 4oz as against 18lbs on the same set of scales so I think that I have won there. Would have been happy with 16lbs. Forgot to weigh the bare wing but the bare fus. with control surfaces was 2lb 10oz (1200g).

Just weighed the original minus engine, prop, mount, spinner and cowl and it is 13lbs.

Thread: Setting up for Flaps
26/03/2019 20:43:56

If you follow the JR manual you will never get them to work, it is rubbish. Google a full house glider set up and you should find a guide as to how it should really be done, as I had to. No idea where my instructions are now but could guide you through it if you draw a blank. Mine uses a normal throttle stick and the mode switch for launch, normal flight and crow. Quite easy to use although it would be nice to be able to disable the throttle then use the stick for variable crow braking.

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
26/03/2019 20:17:43

Here is the progress so far. Took a few snaps in the shed but will publish proper ones when (if) I get it finished. Just the exhaust stubs and oleos left to fit plus making the aerial, etc, etc. Had a little trouble setting up those retract servos because they have to travel exactly between the end stops. May look to changing the type although they work OK at the moment. The nav. lights which were fitted to this Mk have been put on the wing tips only since the rear white one was too much trouble to wire up. They are operated by a channel controlled switch when the gear is down.

A little problem with the Humbrol light grey. For some reason the underside of the fus. is quite different from the rest. This will all fade darker if it gets the chance.

The gear in the Fus. Masses or wiring. Oh for the days when we all only had four servos to share between models.spitfire 72 040.jpg

Set of bagpipes for the fuel. Fuel from tank to carb. via U piece;spitfire 72 041.jpg tank and crankcase vents.

spitfire 72 042.jpg

The business end.spitfire 72 043.jpg

The rather none scale driver`s door with hidden switch. Now you see me, spitfire 72 044.jpg

now you don`t.spitfire 72 045.jpg

The rear fus.spitfire 72 046.jpg

The tail end.spitfire 72 047.jpg

Before anyone points it out please, I know that the stencils are for a Mk. 9 not a 1A but they were all that I could find.

More soon.

Thread: Charge currents
24/03/2019 22:10:34

I have found that to get maximum capacity into Eneloops, 600 mA is ideal. If I suspect a false peak I use an additional charge of 1A. Some quite elderly ones I have will still take 1850 mA/hr by treating them this gently. 2A will certainly not charge them to full capacity from flat. Fine for a torch maybe but not for my models!

Thread: Spektrum Radio repairs ?
21/03/2019 20:02:13

As far as I am aware it is only the last 26mm of unshielded coax which matters.

20/03/2019 08:58:56

I found the same thing with Horizon. Send a dead Rx and you got a new one by return FOC.

19/03/2019 20:26:17

Sorry, not familiar with that particular Rx and did not realise that it uses extended coax unlike the JR/Spektrum/Orange etc that I often use and have replaced aerials on. You could always buy say, a FrSky Rx one and solder the end to the Rx. after cutting off the micro connector. This part can be as long as you like.

Not volunteering to do the job for you by the way, although I have the parts and skills needed. No reason as far as I know that the servo wire replacement should not work but I may stand corrected.

19/03/2019 19:05:49

Easy. Just cut 26mm of servo wire, remove the broken bit from the PCB with a soldering iron then solder the new parts to it.

Thread: Touche
18/03/2019 14:42:23

Hi Martin,

Glad to hear that you are recovering.

I gave up on those Rom up/dn air valves a long time ago. Seem OK on the ground but leak when vibrated. The red anodised HK ones actually work, as do their blue filler valves.

Cannot remember what your fus. is covered with, but I always add a coat of 20% dope just before painting. This seals the dusty surface and prevents the masking from lifting the primer or paint (usually).

Thread: JR DSX9
18/03/2019 11:24:41

Beat me to it Peter!

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