Here is a list of all the postings Peter Miller has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gliders with no D box leading edge?|
The Easter Eagle senior is really intended for light winds. The fact taht the current owner has flown it in stong winds is purely bis slightly insane choice.
He actually used to fly Mystique glider. Now he has admitted that he never knew what a real glider could be like.
Today he made a 300 mile round trip for me to repair his standard EE.THat is how much he loves even that one.
Why not build my Easter Eagle SEnior? Dead simple, and boy, does it fly!
Has been flown in 20mph winds.
You can also see my build blog here
|Thread: RIZLA +|
I must add that Swamp Rat was orginally inspired by a similar Gary VInten design so full circle.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
NO I was talking about the Ohem.
I designed for saving weight at the rear and then had to add lead.
Later I cracked one side of the tailplane and had to add a strut to support it.
A sheet tailplane is now a standard reccomended modification.
|Thread: Field mower question|
Our Mountfield ride on with 4 stroke motor cost about £1400 8 years ago. It takes one hour and 15 minutes to cut the grass. A full two acres
Only expense apart from petrol has been a couple of belts.
Edited By Peter Miller on 15/02/2019 13:56:19
|Thread: The Ohmen|
I don't know.
Just a comment. I would make the tail out of 3/16" sheet, not built up.
|Thread: Field mower question|
We have a Mountfield Ride on and it cuts our field well. Even the small foamies have no trouble taking offand landing.
I suppose that 1/4" grass might be needed for peanut scale but if anyone said our field should be cut as short as that they would be laughed off the field.
I wioll just mention that two members do all the mowing. one other has recenlty volunteered to take a share. Well done !!!
|Thread: Found you at last|
My building boards are two 12" X 48" melamine covered chipboard shelves. I cover these with 10 mm thick cork tiles.
I can then build two wings at once up to the stage of joining (Read the Ooodalally instructions!)
That chain of shops called "The Works" sell A2 size cutting mats for £8. Bargain!
Paxolin is more that strong enough and has the advanatge that it will break in the event of a crash saving the rest of the structure and the engine mounting lugs. It is a paper laminate.
Tufnol is a cloth laminate and is much much stronger so could actually allow damage to the structure of the model.
I bought a square foot of each off Ebay. I doubt if I will ever use the Tufnol
Did youknow that if you carve a pattern from balsa or something fairly solid you can jam it into the bottle. applu heat and the bottle will shrink over the pattern.
Funny, Mine was not too sensitive in the stall.. Possibly I didn't try to slow it down too much.
I have used a cheap travelling iron from Argos in the past but a proper iron is best.
Acetone or nail varnish remover will clean her ladyships iron if you need to. Trust me.
Edited By Peter Miller on 12/02/2019 21:13:31
Ah, I w as not quite sure what the first picture was.
I had not realised that it was the underside to the tail. I normally insert pl there to screw the tailwheel but I am sure that you spotted that on the plan
The wing looks good.
The tail will be fine. Covering could be a little fiddly
You will be filling in between the sides where the tailplane sits. Filling in between the sides flush with the top of the sides and down to the double gives far more gluing area for the tail.
There was a batch of horns made about the time of Oodalally that were brittle
SLEC scrapped the whole batch. Apparently the p;astic was not the normal type that they used. Not their fault.
I still bend them every so often but never have a failure since.
THat 8X4 prop sounds uselless for a model of the size. It is alwys more efficient to move a lot of air backwards slowly and a 10" prop or even bigger.
Why not give George at 4-Max a call.He will advise very accurately what you need. I know that I always call him for advice and it works.
In fact I will be calling him tomorrow for advice on mylatest design/
If you use the micro servos metal geared ones are essential.
I got some Turnigy ones from Hobbyking which actually have a torque of 3 Kg per cm on six volts.
Welcome to Oodallay!
I have to say that I don't have a jig. I just use a pair of mark 2 calibrated eyeballs!!!
Another tip for the tail. I spot glue a piece of scrap 1/4 sheet down wherfe the tailplane goes. THen I spot glue another scrap of 1/4 sheet down where the fin goes. FInally I spot glue peices of 1/2 sheet or block in and shape gthe whole lot to match the rear of the fuselage.
Separate all this and you will have two blocks to fair in the the fin and elevators. This saves so much fiddly carving and shaping if you try and shape them with the tailin place.
Also you can cover the two fairing blocks before assembly...Again much easier.
|Thread: How can I reverse a plan to build two wing halves|
Parafin is best as the plan goes back to normal.
The other way is to take it to aprint shop and ask for a mirror image. No mess, no smell.
|Thread: Which was the best decade for the hobby?|
THat reminds me of my first club, The REgents Park MFC. We used to fly on Hampstead Heath and Epsom Downs.
I was only with them for a few months. I wonder if any of them are still around.
|Thread: Doubler mistake|
I have Built one. Glued the doubler on with impact adhesive. I was dead lucky I actually had not stcuk them together. .I managed to get the impact adhesive off with Acetone. IT actually came off easily and left no residue.
I have also built two right hand wings. Pucliky only on a Veron DEacon which doexs not involve too much wood or work.
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