Here is a list of all the postings Martyn Johnston has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FPV Close Proximity Cottage Playground|
Best FPV video I've seen James, really great.
Thanks for sharing.
|Thread: slope soaring in Wales|
Nice blog Steve, thanks.
If and when I know I'm coming up to Wales I'll give you a call.
I'm hoping to go to stay near Pontypridd, in South Wales, for a weekend soon.
I saw someone on here mention Eglwysilan Rd, near Pontypridd a while back.
Anybody know anything about this place?
Should I ask any club nearby?
Can I just turn up and fly?
Which wind direction's best ?
|Thread: DB Sport And Scale - Cirrus Moth|
As the one who started this thread (many years ago now) I would highly recommend 'DB Sport & Scale' as a quality kit supplier.
Thank goodness there are still people selling 'proper' kits like these.
|Thread: Demoiselle from the american Sig kit.|
Anyone on here built, or seen fly, the Demoiselle ?
The kit seems to be made by Sig (link here).
I've found it for sale at Sussex Model Centre (here), but would like to know a bit more about it before I get too keen.
|Thread: RCM&E January 2014 issue thoughts, feedback etc.|
Article by Alex Wittaker shows a piccy of someone called Eric Li-Koo with a camera on a long, long pole.
This would be great for me. Anybody got any more info ?
|Thread: 96 quid gloves|
I use a pair of thin cotton inner-gloves (from any motorbike shop) and a big thick pair of woolly, Thinsulate-lined, fingerless gloves over the top; works perfectly for me.
|Thread: What wattage soldering iron ???|
As Martin Phillips suggested earlier, all XT60 connecters are not created equal.
The 'real' ones should not melt at all, and are superb. The cheap copies seem to be made of butter.
|Thread: Build Log for Krick Grunau Baby IIb (1/4 scale)|
I wouldn't presume to say that the way I did it is the 'right' way; it's just the way I did it to get out of whatever hole I was in at the time.
As you're working on the tail, please MAKE IT LIGHT. I followed the plan closely and it's rather heavy. I then departed from the instructions and put the servo inside the tail itself, now it's even heavier. I think if I was doing it again I'd try to make the whole tail assembly much thinner than the plan.
I'd never even seen a fuselage jig before I started, but do it as the instructions and it'll work fine. Don't do one side at a time; do the same job on both sides if you can and you can see along the jig if it's straight. The pine longerons were difficult (took me a while to figure out how to split them to get the curvature at the front) but once I'd figured it out it all went well. They add an enormous amount of strength.
I put a standard servo up front for the rudder, and a lighter, slim wing servo inside the tail for the elevator; a lot of hastle though.
Hi Terry (sorry, only just seen your post).
The instructions (such that they are) do suggest splicing (scarfing) the two lengths for each spar but I messed that up and ended up shopping around for replacements. The ONLY place I could find that would supply 2m lengths of spruce was SLEK (www.slekuk.com) and they were brilliantly helpful.
For the longerons I think I remember having to scarf the two parts. It was easier than I expected and worked fine. It's been a while, but I think I staggered the joints (ie not all at the same place) and I positioned them so that they were at a point where the other structural pieces would connect to them (ie not between joints).
Just found my comments about the longerons that I made at the time, read page 3 of this build-log. Important; note the way the longerons are 'split' to get the curvature at the front.
Good look;- any pictures so far?
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 12/11/2013 08:46:20
|Thread: Long Sanding Blocks|
Permagrit without doubt. It'll last for ever.
Just buy one, you'll love it.
|Thread: Video of Quadcopter|
You guys seen this ?
|Thread: Durafly EDF Vampire|
As mine's currently in the repair-shop (shed) I've taken the opportunity to remove the undercarriage. I remember being quite pleased to buy my first model with retracting undercarriage, but in use it' snot really worth it, unless you have a tarmac runway or VERY smooth grass. I'll have to find some foam to fill the holes but it'll save a bit of weight.
I worried about adding a spar, but didn't bother and have never seen any suggestion in flight that it needs one; I wouldn't bother.
Adding a length of cf down the length of the booms is recommended though. I think I just cut a slot with a blade and a straight edge and pushed a piece of 8 * .5mm in, and glued it with CA.
I completely lost orientation of my EDF Vampire yesterday.
|Thread: Biplanes ...|
Like 'Masher' above, I'd highly recommend you go look at 'DB Sport & Scale' (link here).
Masher, just click on the little button in th ebottom row, that says 'link' when you hover over it, then paste the link in there, then OK.
|Thread: Advice needed for Robart Hinge points|
The drill jig mentioned above is great, but don't assume that all of the hinge-points should be exactly half-way up the thickness of the wood. If the front edge of the ailerons runs at an angle to the spar, for example, then the front edge of the aileron will be slightly curved and the hinge-line won't be half-way up at all points. Make sure you use a steel rule and work out where your hinge-line will be before you drill.
|Thread: Built in LiPos|
This question must have been asked before, but why are 'our' batteries so different from the millions and millions of Li-Pos sold in other devices every year?
I have a phone with a Li-Po in it; I never take the battery out to charge it.
I have an iPad; you can't even take the battery out of that.
|Thread: I thought I knew how the brake behaved.|
Just a little light reading (link here) for anyone with a little time to spare. (start at about page 130).
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