Here is a list of all the postings John Payne has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 808 #16 key cam first attempt - not good !!!|
Hi PB. The first photo shows the fuselage and camera and the velcro. The velcro is held on with hot glue on the fuse and camera. The plywood let into the foam is for a Flycam Eco which i sometimes screw onto the front. The green area is to stop any flare into the lens from the reflection off the white foam.
The second shows the camera mounted on the front with the chain and split ring sited under the canopy as a back up.
The third photo show the side view and the angle that the camera looks down at. You can vary it a little to get the shot you want. I go for the horizon in the top 20% portion of the image and the front of the fuselage just showing into the image. As Garbo says, seeing part of the model in the image makes for a better shot.
Edited By John Payne on 02/12/2012 14:44:27
Hi PB, I will take a couple of photos later today and post them up. Basically I have just used Velcro to hold the camera onto the front slope of the fuselage and tucked the key ring chain under the canopy for safety. It will be clear in the photos. Cheers, John.
Hi PB. I am actually impressed by the quality of the video itself. As David says, they are fairly simple cameras and do not react like a large camera when the image changes from light to dark. On my Twinstar I have the camera set so that it points mainly towards the ground when it is in level flight and it helps a lot with this reaction time. It's just a matter of getting used to what different conditions do to the camera and how to mount the camera to suit. Cheers, John.
|Thread: Friday free stuff|
And me please. Cheers John.
|Thread: Saito spares|
Just for completeness, the bearings turned up from Simply Bearings today, so that was next day delivery. Another piece of excellent support. The clean and rebuild can now start in earnest with all parts available. Cheers, John.
Hi guys, I thought I had better update this thread.
Following the advice from Wingman I contacted Macgregor, via Hobbyplastics site on Monday. After sending photos of the engine to them they contacted Saito, confirmed the parts I needed and let me know the phone number to order them. I called on Thursday and ordered the parts and they arrived today. I think that is excellent service and would recommend them to anyone who needs Saito spares. I also thought that I had better strip the engine down to check internals and, due to castor oil grunge, I had to change the bearings. I have ordered replacements from Simply Bearings and once I have them I can clean and rebuild the engine. One or two interesting bits to the strip, but just have to clean it all and rebuild. Thanks to the Brian Winch articles on timing this should be fairly straight forward. Thanks for all the help guys, cheers, John.
Thanks for the reply Steve.
Hi Engine Doctor, thanks for the reply. It is a closed rocker engine but the head is separate, so it looks like it is a really early type and all the more reason to get it going properly. The pitch on the thread is 1mm I think, so it could be a 10*1mm thread. It's good to know that the OS is different, but not the the new is different to the old as that makes it a little more difficult to get one. I will try Motorvation to see what he has, otherwise I will have to get on and make one, but I would prefer to keep it original if I can.
Once again thanks for the replies. Cheers, John.
Hi guys, thanks for the replys.
Thanks Martin, I hadn't seen that site. It looks as though they do the modern spares, but it looks as though the engine has moved on from my model, but a phone call is a good idea.
Kakariki, it is not an open rocker motor, but that could be arranged .
Stephen, I didn't realise that the early ones had no silencer, and looking at the cost of the current spare parts, that would be a cheaper route if I could find one.
Any ideas on how I can tell how old this one is?
Can anyone help? I visited the Gildings auction yesterday and bought a previously enjoyed Saito 40 four stroke. I need help on a couple of things. I have not had anything to do with Saitos before and I am not sure what age it is. Any indicators I can use? Also I need to get a new silencer for it as the original was missing. I can't find any way of telling if a new silencer manifold and silencer will suit an older engine. Any suggestions where to get spares and if the new silencer bits will suit? Thanks. John.
|Thread: Laser Appreciation Society|
Hi Tom, the latest instructions suggest that you can use nitro, so I guess it depends on the age of the motor/instructions. My Laser 75 is pretty old now but shows no problems with the fuel. The latest instructions are on the Laser website. The fuel I use is also based on synthetic oil content, so the resistance to corrosion is also improved. Cheers, John.
Hi Tom, I wouldn't be too worried about that, they seem to run on any fuel. I run my 75 on 12% nitro fuel, and I use the same fuel in all my engines, and it runs a treat. It never misses a beat. In the past I have run it on various fuels and the results were the same. Cheers, John.
|Thread: Imperial Sizes|
BEB, try B&Q, that is where I got my set from. They had both imperial and metric and ball ended drivers too. Good luck. Cheers, John.
|Thread: Laser Appreciation Society|
I've been a member for a while with my Laser 75 bought not long after they were launched. It was in an Acrowot for a long time and then put into long term storage, badly. I stripped it, fitted new bearings and it runs just as we'll as it used to. It is currently in a Domino biplane and it is "adequately" powered and sounds lovely. Those huge loops are a treat. I also bought a Laser 80 earlier in the year and this is destined for a Skyway Models Stampe. Should be a good match. Cheers, John.
|Thread: BB Junior 60 build - battery hatch|
Mike, glad to help. The nose aperture is left open as originally I used that to get in a 10 cell nicad pack, in the same way as PatMc does in his post. I found it awkward as the motor/ESC wires got in the way. The aperture now allows cooling air into the fuselage for the lipo and ESC. The bigger lipo is a good idea as I still need around 7 ounces of lead in a hatch above the motor to bring the CG to the correct position (very important!). Even with all this weight it still outperforms some of the gliders on a good day. I now use it as a camera plane and it flies well even with a digital camera mounted on the front. If you need any more info let me know and I will catch up later this evening. Cheers, John.
Hi Mike, photos as promised. Forget the backgrounds (!) and the fact this is a previously enjoyed, and modified, model.
This first photo shows the cover closed and locked in place. (it wasn't a servo arm is was a wire clamp to hold it closed)
The second photo shows the cover released.
The third photo shows the inside of that bay with the ESC and velcro to retain the lipo visible.
I have not had any problems with the battery coming loose in flight and it requires no great effort to remove the lipo for charging with no tools required. if you need any more help let me know. Cheers, John.
Mike, just picked this up, been out all day. I'll take a couple of photos in the morning and get them posted in. Cheers, John.
Mike, if it of any interest, I have a J60 with a 2700 3S Lipo and the access hatch is on the bottom of the fuselage and is a simple affair. It is a ply plate which keys into a slot to the rear and has a servo arm secured with a screw at the front which pivots back over the ply plate to hold it in place. The battery is inserted from underneath and is held in by velcro on the battery and a ply plate secured to the fuselage structure between the original bulkhead and the first screen uprights. If that is unclear, let me know and I will take photos for you tomorrow. This arrangement allows the lipo to be changed quickly without any tools and moves the weight as far forward as possible. Cheers, John.
|Thread: Anyone use Virgin Superhub wirelss connect?|
Silly question Alan, but you have got wireless capability on the PC and you have chosen the relevant wifi network and input the pass code on the PC? Sorry to ask such basic (to me) questions but some people do not know. Cheers, John.
|Thread: OrangeRX 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer|
Hey guys, I am interested in these things for a simple camera plane and the stabiliser would help smooth out the video. Any more results in using either stabiliser? Cheers, John.
|Thread: Galaxy Domino Bipe build|
It's coming on well, nice one. Cheers, John.
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