Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can anybody identify this plane and engine|
Superb plane, one of the group of fliers I fly with passed his old loft held Apache on to my son for him to fly instead of his HiBoy (which he was also given) because the HiBoy came in rather too quick for him.
|Thread: Weekend Giveaway|
Me please, well me and my son.
|Thread: Want Help for an old newbie|
Brilliant choice of training plane, very forgiving. Some of the people I fly with have modified these machines with flaps and are able to fly these really slowly - certainly walking pace.
I scratch built a WOT-trainer-a-like, lost over 1lb in weight, added flaps and in a breeze it will actually fly backwards without any issues.
Have fun and enjoy your machine, the stickers are for you to add if you want and however you want to personalise your machine.
|Thread: Junior 60 electric - any tips?|
Personally I would use a white wood glue rather than super glue or epoxy.
Epoxy is strong but heavy, super glue can be brittle.
You can build either section first, it will not matter much.
As to building straight the most important thing is to have a flat building board, some way of holding the built parts flat (weights, pins, pegs or tape) and some way of making sure parts are straight and square (long rule and squares). Some guide lines drawn on the board in either direction will help during construction.
The other really great assistance is by having a build thread. That way other builders can help spot mistakes before they get to far inside the build, it will provie motivation and if there are any incidents later on in its life and a repair is required then you will have documentation as to how the machien was built.
Good luck and have fun
|Thread: Dad's Plans|
Details required would include the amount of building done, the make of the kit, the machine type, wingspan and recommended power plant.
With things like plans the designer or drawer of the plans would be good together with the machine type and wingspan.
|Thread: Irvine 40|
I agree with Bob, from the description you give it does sound like a gummed up carb.
Strip (the carb!) clean reassembe and start again.
|Thread: Galaxy/Pegasus Magician - Lotus inspired extra lightweight Mod's|
Want to loose weight, don't use the lite ply formers!
If the strength is needed use propper ply, if not use balsa only.
I would make new formers from framed up balsa, much stronger and way lighter.
I have built a WOT Trainer-a-like machine with thinner wood sections and framed formers. Only places for propper plywood was for F1, the undercarriage mount and for the first ribs on each wing panel.
My plane has lost over 20% of the weight of the origional with no structural strength loss.
Only other thing I would do if you go lighter with the fuselage is to plan to use rubber mounts for the F1 to motor mount fixing which avoids the vibration being transfered to the fusealge and makes the plane quieter.
|Thread: Encouraging young people|
I certainly do not have the answers the to the question being pondered.
I went to Air Cadets (age 14ish) and met a lovely local gentleman who flew with a local group of modellers flying gliders off a flat field with a bungee. My father took me to this site for a couple of weekends and then allowed me to cycle to the field on my own (a ride of 5-6 miles either way through country lanes, 1970's / 80's).
A lot of weekends later, having done lots of bungee running out, fetching and assisting for the men, my father came up to the site again and a discussion was had by the gentleman & my father.The result was if we could come up with a radio system (Futaba Medallion 3) then the flying group would donate a used machine and teach me to fly.
This was the start, and as I grew up I progressed to cycling to the field with the glider strapped to my back in a fishing rod holdal, bungee on the luggage rack and radio round my neck. Cycling changed to motor cycling and the same system used for transport.
Right now I am in the position where my son (aged 12) has now got the abillity to fly his own machine without assistance. Add to this he is also now building his own balsa machine and is designing his own plane.
My summary is that there are now lots more restrictions on what can and can't be done, my son would not be allowed (by us) to cycle on the roads local to us for his own safety, the boys in blue will possibly pull him over for a dangerous load if he did as I did, the group of flyers would not be allowed to have him on the site due to child protection rules.
The great news is that the modelling fraternaty has not lost its generosity, my son has now been the recipient of 2 unwanted models, and for a small donation has got a glow 2 stroke motor and a 4 stroke coming. The enthusiasm shown to my son by the modellers who we fly with is beyond words which has kept his enthusiasm high, and I believe we all look forwards to flying together.
I would love to see more youngsters like my son, learning the skills required to be involved in this superb hobby / sport. I would love to teach more youngsters to fly and would be quite happy to use my machines to do so.
More involvement at school level and with youth groups (scouts & Air cadet type groups) has to be part of the solution, but the kids have to want to do it themselves - maybe that is the biggest hurdle in the world of instant gratification.
|Thread: Digital Luggage Scales for Weighing Models|
That was an appauling punchline. Not worth waiting for.
You are lucky they are right, most weighing devices are not accurate unless supplied calibrated going from my experience as a field service engineer in the weighing industry.
If you use this devce for thrust measuremets, make sure you rezero the device with the device held horizontally.
|Thread: Hi, new to RC planes|
Welcome to the hobby Andy, looks like you are already making all the right decissions to get you on your way. Congratulations in making the first correct step.
All the advice above is pretty good and I would follow it.
From your first post I do wonder if you are a little cash strapped like many of us are at the moment - I do not expect a response from this statement. The reason I make that statement it is that a lot of people are making the move from 35MHz to 2.4GHz radio frequency.
Both are perfectly legal for aircraft flying and both work well, most people I believe are making the move for reasons of not having to check the channel number that you and others are flying on (2.4GHz does not work on a fixed channel but sort of changes around all the time where as 35MHz relies on a fixed frequency being used).
With this in mind, those moving from 35MHz to 2.4GHz are selling their gear off which means perfectly servicable 35MHz gear can be aquired for not an awfull lot of money. I picked up an 8 channel Futaba transmitter for around £50, recievers can be had for as little as £10.
Again consult the fellows at your regular flying site / club and see what they say, your instructor may well fly a 2.4GHz system but it is possible that a 35MHz transmitter can be used as a buddy box when you learn and then you can carry on using it after as a stand alone unit.
Mike your P47 can run on 6 channels, no necessity for split aileron channels. If the reason is for aileron differential, then simple servo / control surface horn geometery will allow this to occur without the need for the split.
|Thread: Soaron Silhouette 132"|
Try asking this man here since he seems to have had experience.
From experience I would aim at 28-30% as a start point and go from there from how the model flies.
She does look good.
|Thread: Flat work surface??|
I use a sheel of 19mm MDF on the dining table and that seems to stay fairly true, although there is not much chance of sticking pins in it, no worries if you use weights to hold things.
I also have a fuselage jig which is L shaped brackets mounted on a piece of ply. This has bowed nicely but clamps down on to the MDF and is then true.
|Thread: Why are we not seeing many twins|
Did not realise this is a show and tell thread.
Mosquito now 6 years old
and my not quite finished but flown Catalina
Edited By Andy Gates on 18/10/2012 18:17:27
Not convinced in your suposition Erfolg.
Both my son and myself each have a twin motored machine planned for this winters build, and I have a 4 motored machine planned as well.
I already have 2 twin motored machines in my fleet, both of which fly very well indeed.
|Thread: What decides the minimum diameter of a loop.|
I suspect you Lipo has had its day.
Full charge voltage should be around 12.4 - 12.6v straight off the charger.
The prop you are using is going to dictate the power available. The bigger the prop the more you are going to ask of your Lipo and that is when you are likely to see power drops of the magnitude you are looking at.
You say you have lost 40 watts, but if you are only pulling 12.7A and the pack voltage is dropping to 10v then you either must have used a partially discharged battery pack or a pack with a defective cell.
A 20C 2200mAH pack should be good for 44amps, so at that level of current draw I would expect to see the pack voltage drop to the sort of levels your are suggesting you are getting off of yours drawing 13A.
If the pack is a bit down then, the machine that does not stress the pack so much is likely to seem to be flying better that the machine that stresses it more.
|Thread: Best way to stay focused|
No sweat Dylan, make some skis for your machine to replace the wheels and the ground conditions will be irrelevant.
Then the only fight you will have is the wind and rain.
Dealing with the wind comes with experience, so even if you can't fly your own machine, still go to the field when the experience guys go there and learn how they handle the wind. They may make adjustments to adapt the model to deal with the conditions which may help your machine.
You could even ask them to buddy you in the greater wind conditions with your model so you can get used to the way your machine handles.
|Thread: What decides the minimum diameter of a loop.|
I would imagine several things happeing all together which will dictate the tightness of loops.
I had been considering this issue although not so deeply.
Wing section has to be a factor which will dictate achievable speed, stall speeds and lift available.
Wing area which will dictate the wing loading and again stall speed
Tail moment arm and elevator deflection which dictates the abillity to force the tail around
Motor / prop combination giving the abillity to pull the plane round the loop
Lastly the weight which influences stall speed, wing loading and excess power available
I ask a question though, are you meaning a full flying loop or a high powered pull over which I have just starting doing with my Basic 3D machine which is performed at or around stall speed?
|Thread: Flair Junior 60 build|
Looking at the picture you have posted, I would pack up both the front and rear spars since neither are sitting in their respective slots properly.
The front spar looks like it needs a little packing at the rear to get the alignment correct where as the rear spar needs lifting all the way along. I would use some scrap balsa positioned along the spar placed in the gaps between the ribs so there is no chance of glueing the packing to the rib / spar joint.
Before you add the packing under the rear spar I would get the rear of the ribs pinned down to the TE / building board
Edited By Andy Gates on 30/09/2012 15:47:45
|Thread: Are you still flying entirely on 35MHz?|
I still fly both systems on glow and electric machines on a routine basis, and by that I mean almost everytime I go out to fly.
If I get glitching issues, it is normally something I have done in setting the plane up poorly or I have run the aerial too close to battery or power wire runs.
So far (he says touching wood) I have never yet been "shot down" by interferance or experienced any inteferance which has been diagnosed as something outside the airframe.
|Thread: Glitches when using 35Mhz with electric|
Can you try one more thing before you give up on your reciever.....please?
Remove the red wire from the connector from your ESC to the reciever, and plug in your reciever battery pack and retest it.
I am wondering if you have a crack in the red wire from your ESC so maybe that might explain the hit and miss connection you are getting. If this is the case then any reciever could go in and out of connection during flight which will not be good for the model.
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