Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Spitfire rework|
Reason I asked is that I fly an electric Spitfire from a magazine free plan which while it flies great at speed, when it gets down to landing speeds it is directionally unstable and runs out of elevator to flare properly.
The dimensions of my machine are...
Wing chord 10.75"
Tailplane span 15.75"
Tailplane chord 5.125"
Rudder height 7.5"
Rudder / fin chord at top of fuselage including fillet 7.5"
Sorry for the slightly impertinent question but what are you meaning when you are talking about your % adjustments?
When I look at the 6th & 7th images in this tread, I do not see markings indicating 6 or 7%. Can I assume you are meaning linear measurements - if so then the reduction you are making is much greater.
|Thread: what control horn|
I concur with the making of your own horn.
I use glass fibre board which you can get from your local model shop or buy on line.
If you make the horn tilt forwards so that the point that the hole which the push rod connects to is directly below or above the hinge line then you should not get differential movement. If the connection point is behind the hinge line - then you will get more down than up movement which is not what you would want as Mike T said.
As it is a build up aileron (from your description), I would not use the ply horn mount or if you have already fitted it I would cut a slot in it to take your home made plate horn, then add 2 ribs into your aileron for your horn to fit between to increase the gluing surface area.
|Thread: The State of Play|
I have just picked up on this thread which I found very interesting and diverse. I suspect that diversity is the issue here.
Richard knows I love to build and fly light, and I have a Chipmunk, Mosquito, Catalina and a Beaufighter all flying on 3S in the 76-80" wingspans and normally under 4lbs ready to go. I predominantly build from plans as that way I can adapt the design to suit me, the field I fly from and what I want. Storage and portage are also issues which is why all the above bar one are split wings.
Tony N does some interesting plans but to me they are built way too heavy.
I have had very few kits, Galaxy Models Escort trainer, a Stevens Aero RV4 and just recently acquired one of Richards lovely Spitfires which again I will try and build light- should be interesting.
The options Richard has listed in his test group of planes would not really interest me as the subject does not grab or the cost spirals - no offense meant Richard.
Now the Tempest / Sea Fury, Wyvern would grab me as being slightly different to the norm, as would quite a few of the late 40's early 50's designs or test beds.
I can only see people looking into getting their planes (ARTF / BNF / Kits) from a more local source than China once we all recover from the current situation, as their prices are escalating and the available income to be spent is likely to be reduced. I hope this benefits Richard and our local kit providers - I know Balsa Cabin has been incredibly busy during Covid.
It also looks like access to relatively cheep chinese IC engines is becoming an issue so I suspect electric propulsion may well grow.
No conclusions from me as there are too many variables to juggle - best wishes and happy flying to Richard and you all.
Edited By Andy Gates on 21/06/2020 23:02:51
|Thread: FrSky FLVSS Smart Port LiPo Voltage Sensor|
I use the G-RX6 and 8 with a lipo voltage sensor which works great.
The G-RX both have internal varios so I can get height, vertical speed and voltages called out on my Jumper T16 whilst flying my gliders. I thought it would be gimmicky but it is not. Absolutely brilliant and very useful.
|Thread: What is this model?|
As it has SA inside the cockpit it will mean it is a Stevens Aero machine - you are a lucky boy!
I suspect it is a Groove - follow the link below.
SA stuff is amazing, is very light and flies amazingly well.
It normally comes as a very well cut laser kit which goes together with CA to make a resilient airframe.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc|
Received my kit from Richard last night with suitable social distancing.
As a rule I don't do kits, most of my machines are built from plans. My last 2 kits being a Stevens Aero RV4 and a Galaxy Models Escort trainer (eek!)
Well done Richard and team for an excellently produced and presented item. Wow is all I can say.
I want to get started but already have a build on the table so sadly the Spitfire will have to wait a little while. The other thing I will be doing is looking to save weight, as Richard knows, I love to fly lightweight and fly around at the low speed end of the flight envelope. The wait will also give me time to sort out motor / ESC / battery combo, servos and of course the all important paint job.
I did quite fancy the bright red of G-FIRE from my boy hood airshow days which flew with G-HUNT and G-FURY if I remember correctly. I have also be reading a book about Buck McNair so I may go with one of his machines, or maybe one of the Malta ones.
Keep going chaps,some great machines being built here, shame more people do not do the same.
Edited By Andy Gates on 06/05/2020 10:48:48
|Thread: Pics from your free RCME plan build|
Just because they are not shouted about does not mean they are not being built.
Quick snap of my 2nd Martin Bell plan size Stiletto from RCM&E October 2005.
This is now my 2nd week on the build
Edited By Andy Gates on 17/03/2020 17:36:33
|Thread: Complete newbie in Devon|
I hope you find a local club that suits you and that you enjoy your time with RC.
It is not only people like you who are just starting in this hobby that have issues finding new clubs to join. I am an experienced flier but I have never really belonged to a club. I used to get involved with like minded modellers as a group who flew together and looked after each other in an atmosphere of mutual respect.
With the loss of our flying site to development (gravel quarry), I had to find somewhere else to fly which meant a club to be joined. It took a while as some of the clubs I visited seemed to operate in cliques, others expected everyone to follow all the rules - except some of the established modellers, and at others the flying was awful even though "A" certificate had been gained by all solo flying members.
I found a club which suited me and who excepted me and my experience. I love going flying with my new friends and look forwards to every weekend for my fix.
Good luck and keep us posted of your progress.
|Thread: Can anybody identify this plane and engine|
Superb plane, one of the group of fliers I fly with passed his old loft held Apache on to my son for him to fly instead of his HiBoy (which he was also given) because the HiBoy came in rather too quick for him.
|Thread: Weekend Giveaway|
Me please, well me and my son.
|Thread: Want Help for an old newbie|
Brilliant choice of training plane, very forgiving. Some of the people I fly with have modified these machines with flaps and are able to fly these really slowly - certainly walking pace.
I scratch built a WOT-trainer-a-like, lost over 1lb in weight, added flaps and in a breeze it will actually fly backwards without any issues.
Have fun and enjoy your machine, the stickers are for you to add if you want and however you want to personalise your machine.
|Thread: Junior 60 electric - any tips?|
Personally I would use a white wood glue rather than super glue or epoxy.
Epoxy is strong but heavy, super glue can be brittle.
You can build either section first, it will not matter much.
As to building straight the most important thing is to have a flat building board, some way of holding the built parts flat (weights, pins, pegs or tape) and some way of making sure parts are straight and square (long rule and squares). Some guide lines drawn on the board in either direction will help during construction.
The other really great assistance is by having a build thread. That way other builders can help spot mistakes before they get to far inside the build, it will provie motivation and if there are any incidents later on in its life and a repair is required then you will have documentation as to how the machien was built.
Good luck and have fun
|Thread: Dad's Plans|
Details required would include the amount of building done, the make of the kit, the machine type, wingspan and recommended power plant.
With things like plans the designer or drawer of the plans would be good together with the machine type and wingspan.
|Thread: Irvine 40|
I agree with Bob, from the description you give it does sound like a gummed up carb.
Strip (the carb!) clean reassembe and start again.
|Thread: Galaxy/Pegasus Magician - Lotus inspired extra lightweight Mod's|
Want to loose weight, don't use the lite ply formers!
If the strength is needed use propper ply, if not use balsa only.
I would make new formers from framed up balsa, much stronger and way lighter.
I have built a WOT Trainer-a-like machine with thinner wood sections and framed formers. Only places for propper plywood was for F1, the undercarriage mount and for the first ribs on each wing panel.
My plane has lost over 20% of the weight of the origional with no structural strength loss.
Only other thing I would do if you go lighter with the fuselage is to plan to use rubber mounts for the F1 to motor mount fixing which avoids the vibration being transfered to the fusealge and makes the plane quieter.
|Thread: Encouraging young people|
I certainly do not have the answers the to the question being pondered.
I went to Air Cadets (age 14ish) and met a lovely local gentleman who flew with a local group of modellers flying gliders off a flat field with a bungee. My father took me to this site for a couple of weekends and then allowed me to cycle to the field on my own (a ride of 5-6 miles either way through country lanes, 1970's / 80's).
A lot of weekends later, having done lots of bungee running out, fetching and assisting for the men, my father came up to the site again and a discussion was had by the gentleman & my father.The result was if we could come up with a radio system (Futaba Medallion 3) then the flying group would donate a used machine and teach me to fly.
This was the start, and as I grew up I progressed to cycling to the field with the glider strapped to my back in a fishing rod holdal, bungee on the luggage rack and radio round my neck. Cycling changed to motor cycling and the same system used for transport.
Right now I am in the position where my son (aged 12) has now got the abillity to fly his own machine without assistance. Add to this he is also now building his own balsa machine and is designing his own plane.
My summary is that there are now lots more restrictions on what can and can't be done, my son would not be allowed (by us) to cycle on the roads local to us for his own safety, the boys in blue will possibly pull him over for a dangerous load if he did as I did, the group of flyers would not be allowed to have him on the site due to child protection rules.
The great news is that the modelling fraternaty has not lost its generosity, my son has now been the recipient of 2 unwanted models, and for a small donation has got a glow 2 stroke motor and a 4 stroke coming. The enthusiasm shown to my son by the modellers who we fly with is beyond words which has kept his enthusiasm high, and I believe we all look forwards to flying together.
I would love to see more youngsters like my son, learning the skills required to be involved in this superb hobby / sport. I would love to teach more youngsters to fly and would be quite happy to use my machines to do so.
More involvement at school level and with youth groups (scouts & Air cadet type groups) has to be part of the solution, but the kids have to want to do it themselves - maybe that is the biggest hurdle in the world of instant gratification.
|Thread: Digital Luggage Scales for Weighing Models|
That was an appauling punchline. Not worth waiting for.
You are lucky they are right, most weighing devices are not accurate unless supplied calibrated going from my experience as a field service engineer in the weighing industry.
If you use this devce for thrust measuremets, make sure you rezero the device with the device held horizontally.
|Thread: Hi, new to RC planes|
Welcome to the hobby Andy, looks like you are already making all the right decissions to get you on your way. Congratulations in making the first correct step.
All the advice above is pretty good and I would follow it.
From your first post I do wonder if you are a little cash strapped like many of us are at the moment - I do not expect a response from this statement. The reason I make that statement it is that a lot of people are making the move from 35MHz to 2.4GHz radio frequency.
Both are perfectly legal for aircraft flying and both work well, most people I believe are making the move for reasons of not having to check the channel number that you and others are flying on (2.4GHz does not work on a fixed channel but sort of changes around all the time where as 35MHz relies on a fixed frequency being used).
With this in mind, those moving from 35MHz to 2.4GHz are selling their gear off which means perfectly servicable 35MHz gear can be aquired for not an awfull lot of money. I picked up an 8 channel Futaba transmitter for around £50, recievers can be had for as little as £10.
Again consult the fellows at your regular flying site / club and see what they say, your instructor may well fly a 2.4GHz system but it is possible that a 35MHz transmitter can be used as a buddy box when you learn and then you can carry on using it after as a stand alone unit.
Mike your P47 can run on 6 channels, no necessity for split aileron channels. If the reason is for aileron differential, then simple servo / control surface horn geometery will allow this to occur without the need for the split.
|Thread: Soaron Silhouette 132"|
Try asking this man here since he seems to have had experience.
From experience I would aim at 28-30% as a start point and go from there from how the model flies.
She does look good.
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