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Member postings for Andy Gates

Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Why are we not seeing many twins
16/10/2012 18:28:29

Not convinced in your suposition Erfolg.

Both my son and myself each have a twin motored machine planned for this winters build, and I have a 4 motored machine planned as well.

I already have 2 twin motored machines in my fleet, both of which fly very well indeed.

Thread: What decides the minimum diameter of a loop.
12/10/2012 17:03:57

Erfolg

I suspect you Lipo has had its day.

Full charge voltage should be around 12.4 - 12.6v straight off the charger.

The prop you are using is going to dictate the power available. The bigger the prop the more you are going to ask of your Lipo and that is when you are likely to see power drops of the magnitude you are looking at.

You say you have lost 40 watts, but if you are only pulling 12.7A and the pack voltage is dropping to 10v then you either must have used a partially discharged battery pack or a pack with a defective cell.

A 20C 2200mAH pack should be good for 44amps, so at that level of current draw I would expect to see the pack voltage drop to the sort of levels your are suggesting you are getting off of yours drawing 13A.

If the pack is a bit down then, the machine that does not stress the pack so much is likely to seem to be flying better that the machine that stresses it more.

Thread: Best way to stay focused
06/10/2012 17:55:22

No sweat Dylan, make some skis for your machine to replace the wheels and the ground conditions will be irrelevant.

Then the only fight you will have is the wind and rain.

Dealing with the wind comes with experience, so even if you can't fly your own machine, still go to the field when the experience guys go there and learn how they handle the wind. They may make adjustments to adapt the model to deal with the conditions which may help your machine.

You could even ask them to buddy you in the greater wind conditions with your model so you can get used to the way your machine handles.

Thread: What decides the minimum diameter of a loop.
01/10/2012 18:51:56

I would imagine several things happeing all together which will dictate the tightness of loops.

I had been considering this issue although not so deeply.

My thoughts....

Wing section has to be a factor which will dictate achievable speed, stall speeds and lift available.

Wing area which will dictate the wing loading and again stall speed

Tail moment arm and elevator deflection which dictates the abillity to force the tail around

Motor / prop combination giving the abillity to pull the plane round the loop

Lastly the weight which influences stall speed, wing loading and excess power available

I ask a question though, are you meaning a full flying loop or a high powered pull over which I have just starting doing with my Basic 3D machine which is performed at or around stall speed?

Thread: Flair Junior 60 build
30/09/2012 15:45:56

Looking at the picture you have posted, I would pack up both the front and rear spars since neither are sitting in their respective slots properly.

The front spar looks like it needs a little packing at the rear to get the alignment correct where as the rear spar needs lifting all the way along. I would use some scrap balsa positioned along the spar placed in the gaps between the ribs so there is no chance of glueing the packing to the rib / spar joint.

Before you add the packing under the rear spar I would get the rear of the ribs pinned down to the TE / building board

Edited By Andy Gates on 30/09/2012 15:47:45

Thread: Are you still flying entirely on 35MHz?
25/09/2012 18:04:23

I still fly both systems on glow and electric machines on a routine basis, and by that I mean almost everytime I go out to fly.

If I get glitching issues, it is normally something I have done in setting the plane up poorly or I have run the aerial too close to battery or power wire runs.

So far (he says touching wood) I have never yet been "shot down" by interferance or experienced any inteferance which has been diagnosed as something outside the airframe.

Thread: Glitches when using 35Mhz with electric
13/09/2012 19:07:16

Bob

Can you try one more thing before you give up on your reciever.....please?

Remove the red wire from the connector from your ESC to the reciever, and plug in your reciever battery pack and retest it.

I am wondering if you have a crack in the red wire from your ESC so maybe that might explain the hit and miss connection you are getting. If this is the case then any reciever could go in and out of connection during flight which will not be good for the model.

Thread: Xtls
09/09/2012 23:08:00

Oh boy what a question.

In a nutshell all crystals are different.

Each manufacturer uses their own crystals or state which brand to use.

Also single conversion and dual conversion reciever crystals are not cross compatible.

Lastly, why would you expect a 36.370 to match with a 36.70, unless it is a typo.

So go through your box of crystals and get them sorted into brand and type.

Futaba single conversion reciever are normally white labelled.

Hitec single conversion reciever have a black end of the label.

Hitec dual conversion reciever have a blue end of the label.

Hope this helps

Thread: converting ff8 to spekky
09/09/2012 22:59:17

I have done the same as PatMc, can't fault it but I do also still run 35MHz still with no issues.

Thread: Glitches when using 35Mhz with electric
09/09/2012 13:51:42

Bob

Like many others here I used to fly electric only on 35MHz, I was using an Optic 6 (non sport model).

I still fly a lot of my larger models on 35MHz and have never suffered glitches on the larger stuff, I only got glitches on the smaller stuff with smaller recievers and closer proximity to the ESC / battery / motors.

There is a proviso to this story though, the larger stuff I fly on 3S only and with DUAL CONVERSION recievers. The latter for me seemed to be the key to sucess, and right now with lots of people making the move to 2.4GHz these recievers come quite cheap.

Futaba ones work pretty well but best results seem to be with the Hitec ones, but please make sure you use the manufacturers dual conversion crystals with the DC recievers.

Thread: Built up vintage kits?
29/08/2012 16:30:51

It is/was a Galaxy design for the 100s spec gliding rules.

Looks like this

Edited By Andy Gates on 29/08/2012 16:31:24

29/08/2012 11:13:25

I have the blue print plan of the 1980's Galaxy Condor which is polyhedral.

Thread: The Biplane Thread
28/08/2012 20:20:02

Eck

I saw the Bulldog at the same place, beautifull machine very well flown, shame it would not start for the first session though.

Jeff2wings

Thanks for the compliment, I did not realise I had done so many biplanes until now!

There are threads for all my machines on another forum, the link for the Gordon with some history is at **LINK**

27/08/2012 16:47:05

Finally my own design model of a Fairey Gordon which my late grandfather almost got killed in during a fire in May 1939

27/08/2012 16:42:46

Now my version of Peter Rakes Nieuport 11

27/08/2012 16:38:27

Next up is Peter Rakes Thomas Morse Scout

27/08/2012 16:34:07

My contribution to this thread

1st off a Hiperbipe from the 1980 RCM&E plan

Edited By Andy Gates on 27/08/2012 16:48:18

Thread: Electric Acro Wot - balsa replacement
18/08/2012 12:34:21

If you fancy building, how about from a plan?

A suggestion would be something like the Basic 3D and modify it for electric like I have done.

Not fast but pretty aerobatic on 3S 2300mAH packs with a reasonable flight time too.

Thread: Setting aileron differential with Hobbyking radio
18/08/2012 12:25:46

Go for mechanical, easy to set up and very effective.

For more up going aileron with the servo and surface horns underneath the wing, just fit the servo arm about 30 degrees forwards of the normal 90 degree position.

I fit most of my machines with mechanical differential incase the computer radio breaks down.

Thread: Ducted fan theory and practice
18/08/2012 11:50:35

Richard

Love the Tornado and I am glad it flies well.

I have to ask where did the info quoted below come from?

" Basic figures for the model are: 450 Watts, all up weight 390g (=2 lbs) so watts/lb is good."

Normal conversion used is 1 kg = 2.2046lbs

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