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Member postings for Andy Gates

Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hello from a complete newbie
14/10/2008 19:20:00

Correct.

Throttle and rudder on the left, elevator and ailerons on the right.

Thread: Brushless equivalent
14/10/2008 19:06:00
The E-Flite will use a bigger diameter prop at less current than the 36/11, so in my opinion it will be better suited to your Edge and prop hanging than the 36/11.
Thread: Hello from a complete newbie
14/10/2008 18:20:00

Correct Callum, throttle is normally on a friction rachet which is adjustable for tension.

If you have been using a game controller, then probably mode 2 would suit better than mode 1.

Best way to tell it to go and have a try at your local field on their club trainer.

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
14/10/2008 18:03:00

2 sides are joined with F1 fixed in place, elastic bands left on to show position of bands to hold the parts together while the glue sets. The tail end is held together with a peg to make sure the back ends are kept level.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3053sm.jpg

Side view for clarity

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3054sm.jpg

Thread: Hello from a complete newbie
14/10/2008 16:57:00

I would second Bruces comments.

RC Plane master with Tx replicator, FMS if you have a Tx.

Having said that, I am rubbish on a sim, but train others on the real thing so there are limitations.

Use a sim to aquire the thumb skills to control the plane flying both away from you as well as towards you. Also good for learning aeros.

Good luck

Thread: Brushless equivalent
14/10/2008 16:50:00

Sorry I misunderstood the question, I was not aware Thunder Tiger made brushless motors.

 Looking at the info online, the 36/09 may be slightly more powerfull than the E-Flite25 with the correct prop and pack. You did not state which version or OBL 36 you have.

13/10/2008 23:00:00

I would go with the E-flite 25 to be honest.

I think the plane is built too light to handle IC. It is only 3lb for a 43" wingspan.

13/10/2008 22:14:00

If the Edge is designed for electric, then its structure may not be strong enough to take the vibrations of an IC motor.

Having said that your 0.36 should be fine for this machine since it will be quite lightly built.

Can you clarify exactly which model you have and can you tell us where the motor recomendation came from please?

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
13/10/2008 22:08:00

I did a bit more last night, spent around 3/4 hour.

 

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3052sm.jpg

I cut out F1 as you can see.

I also added the F1 reinforcements, and the rear fuselage stringers (not ailerons as marked on the plans!). The battery box has been fitted to one side ready for the 2 sides to be fitted together.

Thread: The October Grand Prize Draw
13/10/2008 18:50:00

Flew one for the first time this weekend, someone elses of course, marvelous.

Please put my name in for one so I can use it to train others and save wear and tear on my own machines.

Thread: How Safe is my Motor?
12/10/2008 22:46:00

Jon

 I agree with Timbo, just get out and fly your plane. If we worry about every little thing on the plane nd how it is working we would never fly at all.

I would guess the erratic readings are due to the chemistry and manufacturing tolerances.

Try this for an experiment, it is quite safe to do.

Connect a pack to your watt meter / DVM and read the voltage. Now GENTLY squeeze the pack and watch the voltage rise.

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
12/10/2008 21:41:00

Here is the picture of the sides with the doublers attached.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3049sm.jpg


If you look closely, you can see the lines of the grain on the side and the lines of the grain on the doublers are out of line with each other. This actually makes the fuselage stronger because the sides do not split so easily since the misaligned grain helps hold the other sheet together.

That was what I was trying to explain before. I hope the picture helps...

12/10/2008 21:20:00

I am one of those modellers who use the pin prick method.

Basically, I prick holes into a single sheet of balsa placed under the plan with a pin. For straight lines I only prick the corners, for curves I prick a hole every 3-5mm depending on the tightness of the curve. The straights are then joined up using a sharp knife and a steel straight edge. Curves are free hand.

Do not try and cut right through the sheet with a single knife cut, use many cuts, much more accurate. The 1/16 sheets took 3 passes and the 1/8 took 5, although only 3 for the straight lines.

Once one side is cut out of the sheet, I use the first side as a template to cut the other side out. I make small marks on the edge of one side where the doubler ends, and use that as a pattern to cut out the first of the doublers, and the first doubler to cut out the second.

Using this method if I make an adjustment or error, at least it is copied over all the parts so they all match. This way the plane should be symetrical when completed.

12/10/2008 19:53:00

Normally I would do the sides first so you can use the sides as patterns for the doublers.

This is exactly what I have done.

 I do have a slight advantage in that I use CA glue so it does not take long to stick parts together.

The above took me around 1.5hrs including the attaching of the doublers. Picture to follow.....

11/10/2008 23:25:00
Well magicstick we are good to go. I have recieved confirmation from Timbo that it is OK to run a build thread for this plane on here especially for you. Here is the rear assembly of my battery tray
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3042sm.jpg


There is a reason for the double thickness of the rear panel, and that is the spacing on my servo is a bit deeper so a thicker panel is needed.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3046sm.jpg


The long velcro pad is for the battery retention, the short one for the reciever. A quick snap of my 2 1/16" fuselage sides. Notice one is upside down to make sure I build one left and one right side. I have also marked where the ends of the doublers should come to with pencil.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT3047sm.jpg

11/10/2008 22:35:00

Just wating on a response.

I have already made up my battery tray. I had to make it slightly wider to take my packs but that is of no concequence.

11/10/2008 20:18:00

Regarding pictures, best to put your pictures on another site (I use photobucket.com) and then use their supplied links to post your pictures on here.

Do not worry about the speed of your build, I will photo document everything I do so it is available for reference for you. I do not have all the gear I need anyway so I will have to get some bits and pieces which will slow me up.

I will be doing things slightly differently since my packs will not fit in the space available. So I will adjust the battery tray slightly. I also do not want to keep removing the wings to replace the battery packs so I will make the wings only semi removable. I will make the front top cover removable to get at the batteries. These are the only modifications that I forsee.

We best check that it is OK to do a build thread from another mag on here. If not I know where we can do just that. I will mail one of the mods to confirm.

Andy

11/10/2008 15:43:00

Great to hear from you again. 

I am afraid that is one of the things about building from a plan, you have to look at it and read it really well prior to doing anything.

Does this mean the fuselage you cut out was a bit short? Providing there was something to stick F1 to, then you could have left it as it was and attached some engine bay cheeks after. If you had cut it up to the rear of F1, then you could have made F1 slightly wider so that it stuck to the face of the fuselage side / doubler and then reinforced with more of the triangular section as shown on the plan.

Errors such as this one is one of the reasons to cut parts as you need them, that way build errors can be allowed for  and components adjusted to suit.

Do not worry about the box seeming weak at this stage, once the sides are attached it will firm up.

Would it help if you had a build partner, so we both build one and I can post pictures as I go so you can see what is to be done or are you confident enough as you are?

Thread: Hello
06/10/2008 21:27:00

Welcome Jeff, or should that be welcome back?

Enjoy whatever you do with the hobby / sport.

I used the search feature and I can't find any reference to it. Sorry

Thread: Another strange noise
06/10/2008 21:00:00

Personally I would not use the brake feature on an ESC unless it has a folding propeller or you belly land.

The knocking while it is running sounds like a rough bearing, you could try lubricating the bearings since you have already had the motor apart.

The other thing I wonder is how is the shaft held into the motor backplate when it pulls forwards? Could it be something hitting or pushing the rear bearing shield?

I would try flying it, you have shown it seems to be running fine in all other respects.

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