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Member postings for Andy Gates

Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
06/10/2008 00:43:00

Pins through the material is fine when working with decent thicknesses of wood.1/16" tends to split with pins going through unless you are carefull. Try masking tape, clamps or weights to avoid using pins.

PVA is fine but you have to wait for it to dry which I find frustrating. CA is also fine.

What I would do with the box build, is to mark the position of the triangular sections, stick those on first with CA, the attach the next section using CA to have some chance of getting it sorted. Try some Odourless CA or foam safe CA which is slightly thicker and slightly slower to set. This will give you positioning time for the pieces.

The other way is to get the parts positioned and propped in place, then introduce some thin CA along the join lines. The CA will penetrate the wood and create a strong joint. Again do it section by section

A razor plane is a good idea if you do a  lot of block work. I have one and do not use it much.

If I have major amounts of material to take off I just mount my drill in a vice with the sanding pad on and run it that way, just as quick, if not quicker.

As for building board, I have a piece of ply faced blockboard which works well for me. I also have a big sheet of 19mm thick  MDF which I use from time to time. Your board sounds fine, just make sure that it is flat and stays that way.

Adding CA after gluing with PVA will not make the joint stronger to my knowledge since the CA will not penetrate through the PVA.

Do you have your lipo battery yet? If you do have it, make sure it fits in your battery tray. My packs would require the battery box to be a bit deeper. Now is the time to adjust things like this rather than after the model is fully built.

For tomorrow, cut out the side sections both the 1/16" and the 1/8" sections. Join them using impact adhesive - like Evostick. Just make sure the parts are correctly positioned before putting them together and stick them on a flat surface. You do not need sides the shape of a banana. It will not hurt if the doublers are slightly over sized, you can always sand them down after they have been stuck to the sides.

Lastly and incredibly important, make sure you make one left and one right hand side. Sounds daft but we have all been there and made 2 of one side only! What I would do, after cutting the 2 sides is to lay the sides down on your board with the lower edges of the sides together and put some pen marks on the wood. These will be covered with the doublers so as long as the marks are covered after fitting the doublers then you will have made 2 opposing sides.

05/10/2008 19:07:00

There is a typo there, it shoud be 1/ 4" triangular balsa which is available in model shops.

If you have some 1/4" balsa, you can cut some by holding the knife at 45 degrees, alternatively use some 1/4" square balsa since it is only there for reinforcement.

As far as tools are concerned, a knife set can be aquired from £1 shops. Craft knife will probably do you for this build.

A metal straight edge / rule will pay for itself quickly.

If you have one, a fret / coping saw could be useful although a junior hacksaw will see a fair amount of use on this build.

Other than that a sanding pad is a useful bit of kit, I use one designed for a drill with some Aluminium Oxide paper on. Sand paper has a habit of loosing grains which leave nice gouges in balsa.

I suggest you put a good knife / saw set on your Xmas list if you think you may continue with the hobby. I still have mine and use it durig builds, it is only 28 years old and still going strong.

Thread: R.I.P's Minimag, long live S CUB
04/10/2008 20:53:00

Craig

 I am not with you on the thickness thing but if your worry is a lack of thickness or strength then a coat of sanding sealer will help strengthen it or better still some CA glue.

Good luck.

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
04/10/2008 18:53:00

I thought you may ask for clarification.

Cut the 1/16" sides first making sure the grain runs straight down the length of the fuselage.

Then when you cut the 1/8" doublers, cut them out of the sheet so the grain runs slightly across the grain of the 1/16" sides.

To achive this (I assume you are using 4" wide wood),

Lightly mark on one of the 1/16" sides where the doubler should fit. 

Using the side as a pattern, place the nose as far to the top edge of the sheet as possible and the back edge as close as possible to the lower edge.

Now draw around the side onto the 1/8" sheet.

Do not forget to cut 2 doublers out.

Thread: R.I.P's Minimag, long live S CUB
04/10/2008 15:39:00

Craig

If you are going to modify the ailerons again, I would not add ply to the foam.

I would just replace the ailerons with balsa ones of the appropriate thickness.

If you have a foam wing on your Cub you can reintroduce a little dihedral by extending the wing struts to force the outer wing panels up. Should be enough for a little stabillity.

I would also continue with the rebuild / adjustment, if you get good enough weather at least you can try and fly it, you will loose nothing but may gain heaps of experience from your experiment.

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
04/10/2008 15:25:00

Magicstick

For the formers on your machine, use standard ply for F1 (also called the firewall) since it has to support the motor & propeller unit which can vibrate quite a lot. The rest can be balsa in differing sizes as indicated on the plan.

Also if there is a former or 2, or a plate used to support the undercarriage then make that of ply too to withstand the landing loads, your plane does not have or require his..

There may be plates to the front and rear of the wing which the wing is mounted to, either with a couple of pins, a tongue of wood or via plastic bolts with inserts fitted to the retaining plate in the fuselage. These should also be of ply if you fly glow machines. Again you machine does not need these because the wing is held on with bands.

Electric flight can get away with light ply in the last 2 locations if the machine is small, but personally I would use normal ply.

You really do not want any ply to the rear of the wing because it will put weight where you really do not need it.

If you need assistance just ask, I have the plan too but I am not going to build this model.

A quick tip, after you have cut your 2 1/16" fuselage sides, cut out the 1/8" doublers with the wood on the squint if you can. Sounds daft I know.

If you can cut the doublers on the squint, then the fact that the doubler is slightly cross grained will create a much stronger fuselage in the event of a crash by reducing the posibllity of both pieces splitting along the grain. Strongest way would be with the grain higher at the front than the rear.

I do have a slight worry though.

You state you are new to the hobby. That is not bad at all, welcome to the fun we all have. Having said this, the model you are building is not designed to be a beginners model since it is going to be quite a brisk flyer. It is a beginners build though so great on that selection. To fly it you will need someone to help you get it airborne and you trained. So while you are doing the build, find that "someone" and get to know them.

You can assist in finding the someone by putting a vaigue location in your profile, or by checking out the BMFA website and finding a local club.

Good luck

Thread: Born Again
02/10/2008 20:19:00

Solution to the "have plane, will travel" issue is to make or buy a fishing rod holdall type of device with outside straps.

Fuselage goes into the holdall, wings strap to the outside. I used to carry my 100" thermal soarer in just such a manner, together with Tx, bungee ect..

I remember the Miri, never saw one fly. Electro assist has gone a long way since the 70's, there is some superb kit in the shops now. Enjoy your window shopping.

Thread: Formula for flight times
02/10/2008 18:57:00

Paul

What plane are you flying? 6mins in not very long, could it be you may need a more efficient motor?

Flight times and performance are all about getting the right parts to provide the power required. You need the right motor, the right prop and the right battery pack all in balance so one part is not more stressed than any of the others.

Thread: Getting solarfilm to stick to balsa/ply with oil contam.
02/10/2008 18:40:00

You could try sealing the affected section by using a layer of sanding sealer before covering.

Just a thought.

Thread: Crash-E from a plan
02/10/2008 18:35:00

Re:Liteply

Liteply is a sandwich of 2 thin layers of ply with a layer of balsa inbetween.

Personally I am not a fan of the stuff. If you need strength then a slightly thinner layer of normal ply will be better, if you do not need the strength then balsa is lighter.

Where abouts on the structure are you required to use liteply? If it is a front former, then ply will be better and if it is in the nose the extra weight will not hurt.

If it is something like a wing saddle, then try adding a layer of thin ply to the fuselage side instead. Just as strong and far lighter.

Thread: Born Again
02/10/2008 18:25:00

Hello Martyn.

 I think a lot of modellers could say they are restarting the hobby, I certainly did about 5 years ago. It is a great decission to come back, and the products available now are far better than they have been in the past.

Good luck in which ever direction you decide to go.

Thread: SC52 Destroying plugs and quitting!
02/10/2008 17:24:00

I get my spares from Galaxy Models.

I do not think the "dang dang" noise is from loose ends, mine has a new crank after the crank pin sheared off but the motor does not rattle.

It was making this sort of noise from new so I assume it is just an over run issue.

30/09/2008 19:31:00

My SC52 (same rear needle model) does the same "dang dang dang" noise at low throttle on over run. Just seems to be the way this motor runs.

As for plugs, mine seems to prefer A3 plugs to the No.8, not burned one out yet using Contest 10 fuel.

I use 12x6 APC sport prop, but I need something slower to slow up my plane.

Thread: OS 55ax dropping revs
30/09/2008 19:13:00

I would agree as others have said that your needle settings require attention.

My SC needed some low end needle adjustment after a good few tanks.

My collegues Thunder Tiger also needed much the same adjustment, bought off another modeller who flew mainly at WOT - we now know why. Adjusted low end needle and reliable down to tick over.

As for prop, 13x6 sounds a little large in diameter but should work fine. You can get the revs up a little higher by using a smaller prop, 12x6 or similar

Thread: New member from Essex
29/09/2008 18:06:00

Just to bring you all up to date, I met up with Mike on Saturday at the field I fly at.

We had corresponded by PM followed by a brief chat over mobiles to get to know each other and to decide a course of action. I sent Mike a picture of the plane he was to be buddied on just so he was not too supprised by the size of it, not huge but if you have been seeing park fliers then a 6' plane is a little much.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/pentaxman/PICT2319sm.jpg

Blessed with beautifull weather, we really made the most of it, so after a brief run through of what is what, a pre flight check and into setting the buddy up so Mike could use his own Tx.

With this easy to see slow flying model, Mike managed to get around 45 mins of flying on the buddy box with a definate observable improvement over the course of the day. Mike was actually beginning to enjoy the flying by the end of the day with the nerves gone and a great big grin on his face.

Hopefully we will get together again and Mike will be able to progress further.

For those of you who wonder why instructors teach others to fly, believe me the grins that come from the accomplishments of others is payment enough in itself.

Thread: A really daft question
25/09/2008 16:49:00

I am not too sure of the wisdom of running a glow IC motor in a space like a garage.

Best to be outside where if the prop breaks, you are less likely to be hit by the ricoche of part of the prop or from falling paint from tins on shelves. I don't think the fumes would do you much good either even if they do smell good!

Thread: How Safe is my Motor?
23/09/2008 16:54:00

Great result with the plane and congrats on the A cert.

I still need to do mine, maybe next year......

Thread: Glow plug identification
22/09/2008 18:36:00

The most obvious way of telling the condition of your plug is when you connect it to your starter panel.

If you find yourself turning the power up during a normal starting pattern, then that suggests the plug is on its way out, assuming your starter battery is fully charged that is....

Thread: SC53 problems
22/09/2008 18:26:00

The spring is located in the carb between the barrel and the body at the fuel nipple end.

To get access to it, wind out the barrel retaining / throttle stop screw so the barrel will slide out towards the throttle lever.

Once removed, the spring will be found either still in the carb housing or on the end of the barrel.

I stretched mine so that it was about 1 1/2 times its origional relaxed length before refitting it.

For referance my motor runs on an APC 12 x 6 sport prop and I can get 50mins of gentleish flight out of a 10oz tank of Contest 10 fuel.

I also run it on a slightly hotter plug, an OS A3 plug

I hope this helps

Thread: Glow plug identification
21/09/2008 22:05:00

If it has an 8 on it, then it is a number 8 plug made by OS. Enya's equivalent would be a Number 3 I believe.

A hotter plug by OS would be an A3 plug.

All 3 plugs would work with 5% nitro fuel. It depends on the motor as to what exactly you need.

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