Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I maidened someone elses Banshee after I repaired it for them and I loved it. I really did not want to hand it back. A real floater of a machine.
Does it have to be a kit?
If not, how about supporting RCM&E and buying a back issue of October 2005 and looking at the Stiletto by Martin Bell I believe.
Mine flies well but has taken ages to sort out engine issues of one sort or another.
|Thread: Very bad day at the field|
Where does it state he was a novice?
Like others here I am sure (I can't be the only person), I have many years of flying experience with many different types of aircraft but I do not have any certificate to state how good / bad / experienced I am. Does that make me a novice - no!
I have actually trained a few people to go from no flight to A certificate passes first time. I have been to a couple of the clubs nearby and either the hours do not suit or I have issues with the way the club operates. So therefore I have no desire to join either or to try and get a certificate since I have no need.
I fly with a group of like minded fliers in a lovely bit countryside and enjoy it all the more for not having the false regimentation of club rules. We fly with respect to each other, the surrounding property and other users of the countryside.
I hope there is no come back to the club with regards to this incident and I hope fishing & flying relations are maintained to the benefit of all.
|Thread: Galaxy Models, in administration|
Goodbye Galaxy Models.
Like many here I have known Galaxy for as long as I can remember, starting off with a small balsa boat and steadily growing from there. My first radio (Futaba Medallion 3 - still have it!) was purchased here.
Loved their trainer - the Escort until it got soggy with fuel.
Took a flying break, and starting again they were the first port of call.
Got 90% of my stuff from them, and not just the stuff you can buy. Advice not only given FOC but backed up by experience and a practical hand if you really got in a fix.
When I was younger I always had a hankering for their 100" wingspan glider the Condor but never had the money for it. A few years back I asked Gary about the possibillity of getting hold of one which was a no go, but he did his best and came up with a set of plans from which I built the Condor I have now and have been flying for 4 years.
I have been watching the slow decline of this, my favorite of shops over the course of this year.
From chatting with Gary it seemed the trade never really seemed to get going this year at all, the shop always seemed quiet when I popped in during lunchbreaks.
So sad when I visited the shop this monday with my 11 year old son, to see an almost empty shelved shop (compared to the normally stuffed one he always had) and everything being got rid of. I do wonder where all the modellers and their cash suddenly appeared from to nearly clear his shop in 3 days! Surely if they were around and buying his stock prior to his closing down, then he possibly may still be in business today.
So many thanks to Gary and all his staff for the modelling experience he has given me which I still enjoy today, without them it may never have happened. Best of luck to all of you in your future endevours.
WRT Galaxy Models models, I believe that they may be available from My Hobby Stores if my memory serves me correctly.
|Thread: Resurrecting A Classic Matador.....|
Very well done, that is absolutely brilliant, I am so pleased for you and your machine.
I am still not convinced that you are really pulling the amount of current you think you are pulling, so I would suggest you get hold of someone who is local to you with a watt meter in their posession and you do a proper current test.
At least that way you will know how hard you are pushing your set up - you may find that you are nowhere near where you think you are so you may be able to throttle up more and have a reasonable flying session without damaging your components - and without further outlay.
|Thread: Advice for a new plane...|
How about trying to win the kit that is on offer - Basic 3D?
Do not be mislead by its name, while I am sure it will do 3D it is also great for flying very slowly and in tight spaces. In a bit of wind it almost needs no space at all on the runway to take off and land.
I electrified mine and built it very light and she is a superb and fun machine to fly.
I have a thread on another site of the build I did from the free plan, and there is a bit of discussion around my build on this site here
|Thread: Aileron Differential - Round 2|
Either servo layout will work as far as mechanics is concerned.
Are you still thinking of coming out of the top of the wing rather than underneath?
If so and you are still trying to achieve differential, I would suggest an upright position may be easier for you to make adjustments both in the length of the pushrods and also the position on the splines of the servo horn. I have done exactly the thinking you are doing and have tried both positions for the servo with little difference.
Best of luck.
|Thread: Resurrecting A Classic Matador.....|
I have been following this discussion with great interest and like the others I am struggling to see how this all goes together.
I have put your set up into a prediction program and it shows that a 8 cell 500mAH pack with your motor and gearbox on a generic prop of the size you stated should give a drop to 8.7v at full charge and full throttle. Current draw should be around 11.3A which is evidence that your meter is not reading correctly.
Motor speed should be around 12000rpm and prop around 8000rpm producing about 11 oz of thrust.
I hope this is of a little help to you.
|Thread: DH88 Comet|
I am one of Nicks mates building the IP Comet.
It is not that which I want to comment on.
What I want to comment on is the issues regarding deadstick landings. Time and time again I see or read of pilots of RC planes having issues with flying planes with a dead engine and crashing or struggling to mantain control.
I guess I do not understand the issues here because my start to RC flying was on 100" thermal gliders with no spoilers, where you only had one chance at landing.
This required carefully planned and controlled downwind legs as well as turns, speed and height all controlled.
Surely this is no different to our normal "with power" landings, so a quick question, does anyone practice deadstick landings on a regular basis?
|Thread: The Whispering Death|
The figures for the 14x9 3 blade looks good.
Don't forget that you will be running 2 sets of these so they will be helping each other.
I would expect the motors to run faster than your static results indicate so that will almost certainly increase the pitch speed.
Your current figures show that you are only pulling 15C from your 45C lipo so the current drop should not be excessive,but greater capacity will of course help this but at a weight penalty. Wiegh up the difference before you commit yourself or the plane.
I assume you are still going to use one pack per motor because 2 motors are really going to drag the voltage down under full load on a single pack.
I suspect you are going to have quite a lively machine on your hands.
I know I may be teaching grandmother to suck eggs with my next comment, but I really would not worry too much about the torque effects of having both props running the same way.
Fly it like the full size machine, on take off open the throttle progresively keeping the tail straight with the rudder and let it get steady before lifting it off the ground.
If you wollop the throttle wide open in one hit, you will be fighting it right through the take off and climb out until you reduce the throttle again.
|Thread: A Christmas to forget|
Don't do as I did and try and build while not really with it.
I managed to stick a scalel blade through the web of skin between thumb and first finger.
Really could not build after that!
Get better soon
|Thread: The Whispering Death|
Sorry to hear of your oops moment, I am sure you and I are not the first to do it either.
I have looked at the specs for the motor.
The motors are specified for 5-6 cell packs not the 4 cell that you are running.
650Kv is a bit low for a 4 cell configuration.
Looking at your figures I can't see that a 14x10 is going to make much difference from the 14x8 you tested.
I would be tempted to try a 14x7 or 14x8 3 blade prop, that ought to get the current up where you are suggesting you need it.
However, I am not so sure that you need shed loads of power.
The 100 w/lb is a guide aimed at single motored machines.
Twins to not hold to the above rule, so for me I would try the 14x8 set up and see how she goes in the air.
My Mosquito runs at 90w/lb and is not short of power and flies quite scale like.
My Catalina runs at 111w/lb and is way over powered, ever seen a Catalina go vertical and not stop? Mine can - ooer!
|Thread: flair bristol f2b kit|
Add some asking tape to the outside of the ply before bending,this will help reduce the chance of splits.
|Thread: Confused newbie|
I know it does not suit your .25 engine but your .40 would be ideal for
this which is a bit different to normal trainers.
As to the radio I would suggest looking at 2nd user 35MHz gear using a module so you can upgrade to 2.4GHz at a later date after the flying bug has really bitten you.
|Thread: Orion-E electric glider build blog|
Good luck buster, hope she goes well for you.
Ask any questions you need.
|Thread: Frsky 8 channel receiver|
I have one one-way Tx module and 3 recievers after a recommendation from a group flier.
So far everything seems to be rock solid, time will tell.
Fit both servos in exactly the same orientation and you should have no issues.
(Explanation - if the servo arm on the left wing servo is coming out of the servo and pointing at the left wing tip, then the servo on the right wing needs to have its arm also pointing to the left wing tip)
If you fit them like we all normaly do with the servos fitted as if the sides wee mirrore then you will get the aileron effect.
|Thread: Lefthand /anti-clockwise circuit after TO & why I wonder ?|
I believe we do things the way we do them due to habit.
This includes prefered circuit direction and modes flown amongst others.
I use mode 2 since that is what I am most comfortable with although I started off with a 2 channel mode 1 Tx.
For me circuit direction is related to wind and nothing else, I am quite happy with left, right, going away or coming towards myself (not to be recommended).
Since I learned to fly with thermal gliders and bungee launch, I am also quite happy flying directly over my head, again something not to be recommended.
I also have the habit of flying around things on climb outs and landing approaches as opposed to flying over them.
I find I can judge flying through a space better than I can judge the height / depth perception to fly over.
|Thread: So how accurate do you think your Anemometer is?|
I got one a few christmasses ago to give an idea of the wind speed, gusts and turbulence.
Mine is the turbine in a tunnel type, very small and handy.
I have never really needed to check the accuracy as I only wanted a guide.
Seems to give me the data I want.
I can't recommend the accuracy of holding the meter out of a window of a car going along since the airflow around the car is quite disturbed and runs faster around the car than the actual speed of the car.
Only direct comparrison against a calibrated instrument would confirm the accuracy.
|Thread: Club Bans 35 MHz|
Does this mean said club will ban the use of transmitters that have multiple model memories because there is the chance of selecting the wrong model memory and only allow the Spektrum units?
Surely most of us have either done this or been close to flying on the wrong model memory.
In my tour of customers sites, we have one which has banned knives.
The reason is that someone might cut themselves.
All cutting devices must have covered blades requiring lots of special tools.
Surely a step too far but who knows in these days?
|Thread: Spar webbing.|
I totally agree with the need for upper and lower sheeting with the webs to create the D box and rigidity to hold the washout in place.
I would also not worry so much about getting the accuracy of the washout to 2.3mm instead of 2.5mm, and would be fine probably at 3mm (approx 1/8").
Of more concern would be getting the washout the same on both wings and I would possibly add packing at a mid point if the washout is designed to be along the full length of the wing.
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