Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dead Twister Hawk!|
The comment regarding the Lipo storage was aimed at answering Johns question, not at yourself Eric.
I believe if Lipos are stored charged then the shelf life is far better than you would get with NiCad/NiMH cells.
Eric, sorry to hear of the event with your Heli. Hope she is sorted soon.
Had a strange one today myself, someone almost landed a hot air balloon on my models. If I had left them where they were, the balloon when it deflated would have been completely hiding all of them.
Glad he missed but he almost got one of those well known plane attraction magnets himself. So it is not just our planes that seem to be attracted, maybe it is the wicker being attracted?
|Thread: Brushless Blues!|
Do you really have JST connectors on your system?
The small computer type connectors, normally red?
And you have a system capable of pulling 18amps.
Not the done thing mate.
Get some decent connectors capable of carrying the current levels you are talking about. Either 2,3,4 mm gold connectors or something like a deans connector.
|Thread: SC53 problems|
I have had the same with mine too.
Mine is the remote needle valve version.
Eventually after a lot of work, it came down to a too rich idle mixture and a slightly weak spring not pushing the throttle barrel over hard enough, which meant a quickish opening of the throttle lead to the mixture going too lean.
I tried stretching the spring which has helped, although for the longer term I may be replacing the carb with one from another engine manufacturer.
I hope this helps.
|Thread: Twin ESCs - why cut the red wire?|
I have had a pair of the same ESC's connected together for the BEC function and they both got very hot.
This was on a ground test. My plane never flew in this configuration.
Rather than cut the wires, I gently remove the pin from the connector and tape it back to the leads. This way if you ever need to reinstate the red wire all you do is refit the pin into the connector.
|Thread: Straightening a tailplane|
Depends on how bad the bend / warp is.
A fairly minor alteration can be cured by twisting the tailplane in the opposite direction and reshrinking the film.
A more major alteration would involve removing the film off the bent side, treating the balsa to a fair wetting with a light misting spray and leaving to dry out overnight with the tailplane held flat. Then recover.
I would not consider removing the tailplane and rebuilding. You could possibly not fit the new tailplane at the same angle (due to the glue you used to fit the tailplane) as the origional which would lead to all sorts of unnecessary problems.
|Thread: Photocopying plans|
One of my flying buddies is also interested in this plane.
Is there a way of buying a back copy of the Jan 06 magazine on the www?
I thought that too but I would like clarification.
Just waiting for one of the Mag staff or Timbo to provide a definative answer.
|Thread: New member from Essex|
|You be flying with the yellow UFO later then Eric?|
|Thread: Photocopying plans|
I would just like confirmation that it is OK to copy free plans from the magazine for personal use.
Some machines I like to build again if they fly well, and I would therefore like to copy the plan to avoid the origional getting spoilt.
Good examples of this is the Piwakawaka plan, second machine planing to be built during the winter.
|Thread: Crashed West Wings Toucan|
As Eric has suggested, the Toucan needs to be flown far faster than the Coyote.
If you are having the same issues with the Coyote then you are flying that a touch too slow too.
If you are flying rudder and elevator only, then both machines will take a while to respond to the rudder control inputs. You need to be "feeding" in the rudder commands gently - by that I mean use small movements over a period of time rather than heaps of movement for a moment or too. This will lead to a much more controlled flight and should mean that your machines do not get near the dreaded tip stall.
|Thread: New member from Essex|
There is a club at Canvey Island, which has a field at Billaricky (bad spelling I know) if that is of any help.
If you do not mind a little travelling, then I will be more than pleased to help you get to the stage where you can take off, do a circuit and land safely. I am not a BMFA trainer but I have been flying for nearly 30 years and have trained others.
I fly with a group of like minded modellers at a local park, predominantly electric although some glow is flow too.
PM me if you want more info or wish to hook up. No need to bring model and radio initially, I can buddy you on one of mine.
|Thread: Win a brushless motor and ESC|
Can I win twice?
A couple of these would be ideal for my 84" scratch build Catalina
|Thread: Ohm's Law?|
Appologies for getting your name wrong Ivor.
Do you have to understand the electronics in your car, the molecular make up of the petrol you fill your car with, all the metalurgy in the engine, how the ABS works, the friction coefficient of the tyres on all the different road surfaces just to drive your car?
Of course you don't because someone else has worked it all out and providing you drive within the limits of the car and driver then all will be well.
Same with model flying, some background may be advantageous but it is not a requirement to be able to fly.
Having done A level physics and part of a BTech in electronics I do understand and can see what is being said but I feel no need to interject on all the theory to be able to fly model planes. That is what I was trying to say, enjoy it for what it is.
Please don't skip electro flight because of a thread like this one.
The simplest answer is to measure the current draw with an inline meter which can be sources at quite a reasonable cost and will save any damage to components.
Although it does sometimes seem very confusing, once a basic grasp on the requirements is achieved then all will be well and some great flying can be had.
|Thread: How Safe is my Motor?|
Like most things in this hobby, there is so much to learn and take in that it is not until we trip over something that causes us issues that we actually look into what we should or are doing.
I've been flying for over 25 years, 5 years or so being intensively electric.......still learning!
I have recently been discovering about out of balance spinners and prop / cowl noise effects - weird!
Let us all know what you discover when you retest please.
Maybe your motors are frightened of taking the A test too!
As Eric says, try a drop of oil, sounds like the bearings are a bit dry.
The clip you have there is an "E-clip" and works in a similar way to a circlip.
The forces generated by the prop are transfered to the very edges of the clip where they sit in the groove.
Since this is a shearing load, the force required to break the edges are far more than a prop could exert, it would take something more like the force of an overly large hammer blow being really swung at it.
Like the others have said, a new set of bearings and a new shaft and you should be ready to go again. If you do not like the E clip, fit a suitable size circlip - it will not make any difference.
|Thread: Measuring motor output|
Try your local college, 6th form, university. They ought to have gear like this to hand.
330Hz is well within the capabillity of most strobes found in education centres.
If you have kids, you could always ask them to ask their teachers if the school has one. Then send them in with your tacho for them to do tests and return the results to you. They could do this as a project! I think that is called a win win situation
You could check the accuracy of your Tacho with a calibrated strobe light.
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