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Member postings for Piers Bowlan

Here is a list of all the postings Piers Bowlan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Fuse
26/03/2019 11:42:06
Posted by david miles 7 on 25/03/2019 22:14:55:

Hello Piers. Thanks for your post. I had intended to buy a full size plan. I checked your link to the free plan download, but it was A4 size. Is it possible to get a full size copy free? Am I missing something - Am I able to "scale up" the A4 version somehow ?

Outerzone. David, if you click on 'download' and again on the 'download plan' and the other files (ribs etc) on the next page. It will open in PDF and, on my Mac at least, it shows 25.5% so it fits on my screen. Click on 100% and print it off in tile format, so just tape the A4 sheets together and voila, you have a full size plan for free! Alternatively take an A4 plan to any commercial copy shop for enlargement like this one near me for instance. Even easier is to download the files to a memory stick and get the printers to print them off for you. Should cost about £2.50 for an A0 sheet (you can email them the PDF as another alternative). While you are at it you can get any plan enlarged or reduced at no extra cost. Also mirror images are useful for when you only have a left or right wing shown on the plan.

Ribs. The Caprice kit from Ripmax is probably the easiest way to build the model but if if you prefer to cut your own parts there are several different approaches but I usually do as Richard suggested earlier, cutting a rib from thin ply. I find 1/32 is adequate, fixing it to the wood with Fast Tack or similar and cutting round it with a Swan Morton knife/No.11 blade. For tapered ribs you can tape the rib plan over the wood and prick through the outline of each rib onto the wood. I find it more accurate than tracing and is much quicker than you might think. Then just cut out the rib with a model knife.

Covering. Some people still like to use tissue and dope on lightweight models. It may be traditional but the problem is that it is brittle and punctures easily. The major drawback is that that warps can occur as the dope dries and the tissue shrinks. I built a rubber powered AJAX for my son about 25 years ago and used Solarfilm Litespan/Balsaloc for covering. I recently threw the model away during a house move but the covering was still intact! If you do get a dent in the covering it can be ironed out and a warp can be removed with the application of heat to re-shrink the covering. The Ajax has under cambered ribs incidentally like most models of the period.


Edited By Piers Bowlan on 26/03/2019 11:49:36

25/03/2019 20:39:48

Under-cambered ribs can be a little challenging to cover David but don't let that put you off, some Balsaloc applied to the underside of the ribs can help. Provided you can still get it of course. If not, some PVA would probably work too.

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
25/03/2019 15:35:56

Thanks for the update fly boy3, - looking good and even better when covered! The Flying Aces Sportster is on my build list so looking forward to the flying report. yes

Thread: Fuse
25/03/2019 15:09:21

Here is the KK Caprice, 51in span free flight glider and the plan is available as a free download from Outerzone here. I rather like the free flight Amethyst from West Wings. Rather nice video of it here. 

I don't know why you would prefer to build a free flight model David when radio control has never been so inexpensive and reliable and also avoids losing the model in a flyaway. Even the smallest free flight model can be converted to radio control so easily without adding excess weight, you just put the battery in the nose instead of lead.



Edited By Piers Bowlan on 25/03/2019 15:22:40

Thread: Radiolink AT9.S Transmitter.
23/03/2019 04:30:05

Hi Richard, I have only read the review in RCM&E of the AT-9.S so far but the number of features and realistic Rx pricing makes it look like a tempting proposition. I am sure you are not alone in having problems figuring out a new computer radio, especially when it hasn't been on the market long. No doubt you have googled 'Radiolink AT-9 utube' and had a look at some of the many videos available. You may find some pearls of wisdom online on one of the other forums (RC Groups) or maybe a multi-rotor or FPV forum? On one of the videos I had a look at, the reviewer mentioned that the menu structure was similar to Futaba so perhaps googling a ten channel Futaba radio PDF instruction might help - or alternatively make you totally confused. I am sure that once you know how, it will seem simple but that doesn't help you now! Good luck.

Incidentally someone here had an issues with the throttle cut switch with his particular AT-9 but sadly he didn't tell you how he set it up. It might have helped if he had tried to assign a different switch to see if he still had the problem, might have at least identified it as a 'switch problem' or software issue. He had just updated the firmware so perhaps there was an issue with that?

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 23/03/2019 04:50:30

Thread: What would be a good Watt Meter to buy?
22/03/2019 07:15:07

So which one did you go for in the end Stuart?

Here is the Japp plan on Outerzone if anyone is interested.. Did you scale it up from it's 21in span incidentally? Perhaps not, judging by the size of the razor plane!

Thread: Spektrum Radio repairs ?
20/03/2019 07:31:54

Back in the day when Horizon Hobby had a service centre in the UK I sent a broken Speky Rx to them to get a new replacement by return of post F of C. In fact they sent the latest version too as the one I sent was obsolete!

Thread: Folding prop size
17/03/2019 18:28:55

Your motor sounds like it might be better suited to a pylon racer than a glider Phil, so why use it, just because it is what you have? Without knowing a bit more about your glider (weight/wing area) it is difficult to speculate but something like this might be suitable and as Simon says, a 9X6 might be appropriate, looking at the spec. The best investment would be a what meter, as already sugested. Personally I would use a 1300Ah 3s LiPo with this, but whether that would fit in your glider and put the C of G in the right place I have no idea. What battery pack was used in the model originally and how much did the battery weigh?

Thread: Connecting two batteries in a model.
17/03/2019 12:41:02

Gets my vote too, although I have never tried it! Not so keen on the idea of parallel charging however but I know many on this forum do so routinely.

Thread: How many planes can you join together by their wing tips??
17/03/2019 12:37:25

Thanks David for the explanatory video. How it works was the big question and the key to the successful flight outcome. The marvels of modern electronics and control software. yes

Thread: Cheaper Teslas.....
07/03/2019 05:43:40

350W charging? Everything I have read about charging, irrespective of the battery technology involved, links fast charging to reduced battery life. Used on a daily basis many electric car's battery performance reduces considerably after four years, resulting in not only a reduction in range but also performance. Battery replacement is a significant part of the cost of the car.

Batteries not only have problems with low temperatures but also with high temperatures too, when it comes to battery life. Teslas have cooling fans for the batteries whereas some cars, notibly the Nissen Leaf does not. The Tesla also has larger batteries and does not charge to 100%, both designed to stress the batteries less, hence improving their longevity. A £30k or £50k reduction in price would still not make me buy one however- it couldn't pull my caravan (very far). As a second car a two seat (+2 dogs) uber-basic urban runabout with a decent performance (no lead acid batteries, thank you) if short range, might be a different matter - if it was v-cheap! Nobody builds one crying

Roll on Lithium/Air and Aluminium/Air batteries, which if they could 'only' sort out the technology all our electric car dreams would come true!

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 07/03/2019 05:45:35

Thread: JR resurrection?
05/03/2019 05:54:05

Futaba looks like a good decision Pete, solid brand and lots of choice regarding receivers. I used to have a Field Force 9 eons ago but haven't considered Futaba recently, perhaps I should.

05/03/2019 04:39:52

I was hoping to get a few new cut price JR 812BX receivers - in my dreams, they are even more expensive than they were before. I find it odd that this venture seems doomed to failure on price alone and DFA can't see it. I bought my (ugly but reliable) XG11 in the Far East when they first came out because I had been so pleased with my DSM2 JR9303 (I still have it).

If I was looking to buy a new radio I don't know which way I would jump. Maybe Taranis or Horus but problems with software/firmware updates, which some people on this forum seem to experience, puts me off a bit (for example). I quite liked the look of the Hitec Flash 8 but that brand is looking a bit shaky? The Radiolink products reviewed in RCM&E might be a possibility but how reliable are they and how long will they be supported? Will receivers continue to be be available? Best to stock up if one goes that route!

Cars. I had a Saab 9000 (not the Aero, sadly) for years, never went wrong. I replaced it with an Audi TT, never went wrong for 12 years, but it had done 140k miles and then it was only the fuel pump!

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 05/03/2019 05:08:55

Thread: Red Eagle
04/03/2019 08:26:17

Tipsy Pilot, the rudder will still control your Red Eagle nicely without the central dihedral so fear not. You could try reflexing (raising) your two mid-span ailerons which would act as trailing edge spoilers when deployed, so increasing the model's rate of decent for escaping a powerful thermal - or landing. I would do that in preference to flaps but that is just me. There will also be a pitch change with spoiler.

I am not a fan of flaperons (sorry again!) as they tend to encourage tip stalls, although in fairness your ailerons are not at the tips. If you look at full size practice it is probably no accident that flaps are located close to the fuselage and the ailerons out at the tips.

I am glad you found this discussion useful Michael and sorry to hear about your Hobbyking experience. That would put me off too!

03/03/2019 13:04:51

For a rudder/elevator glider the addition of inboard spoilers are most effective for reducing lift and increasing drag. They should be located just behind the main spar and hinged at their leading edge so that a servo can push each one up to disturb the airflow behind it. This causes turbulent airflow in their wake and a reduction of lift/increase in drag, as a consequence. There will normally be an upward pitch change too, which can be compensated by mixing a little down elevator at your transmitter. Ensure pushrod linkages are slop free otherwise the spoilers can be sucked proud of the wing in-flight, causing unwanted drag when retracted. Servoless blade spoilers can be fitted as an alternative which may make installation easier (I have no experience of using the Hobbyking ones and they are out of stock at present in any event).

Alternatively, fitting ailerons which reflex (up) to reduce lift and cause drag can be quite effective too. Personally I would not fit ailerons to a model that has a lot of dihedral, or polyhedral for that matter, as they tend not to work too well. At the end of the day it is your model and half the fun with this hobby is experimenting.

P.S. Michael, I like your Red Eagle colour scheme, most effective.


Edited By Piers Bowlan on 03/03/2019 13:16:14

03/03/2019 07:33:23

Very nice build Tipsy Pilot.

Fitting a larger (heavier) battery may improve penetration a bit in a blow but for thermaling the extra weight will not be an advantage and I doubt the aileron servos will significantly shift the c of g. I do ask the question why you fitted ailerons as they are quite a bit of work, complication and drag, and this type of polyhedral wing doesn't need them? If I were to modify the design at all I might consider fitting spoilers, to escape from one of your Australian 'boomers', not ailerons.

Sorry TP, I don't mean to rain on your parade, good luck with the maiden.

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
02/03/2019 20:47:50
Posted by Bucksboy on 02/03/2019 08:58:49:

I successfully flew this for the first time yesterday. It’s a Warbird Replica La7, the smaller 57” version. It’s electric using their motor and FMS spinner and 3 bladed prop. It’s not finished yet and I’ll get on and finish the detailing, the Solartrim stickers have lost their grip so I’ll paint the stars on. I’ll draw a few panel lines and weather it up a bit too. It’s painted with Matchpots over brown paper covering.

It went together really easily, it’s very simple. The beauty of it is that you can add, alter or glue extra bits on to cover mistakes, it’s a model plane after all.

I’ve made a start on it’s bigger brother but that one will have a Laser 80 up front, luckily I already have one.


Very nice and well done Bucksboy. I have the kit for its bigger brother as well and also have a Laser 80 for it. Fitting the Laser 80 would involve moving the engine bulkhead aft 20mm, not a big deal perhaps but I am wondering if fitting my ASP 90 instead might be an easier option, as no modification would be required? When you get around to it, some build pictures of your bigger LA7 would be great too. yes

Nice astroturf runway, by the way!

Thread: Chilli Breeze from Sarik Plan, Electric Conversion.
26/02/2019 14:01:17

HS225 - good choice; cheap, powerful and reliable. HS85MGs in the wings perhaps.

26/02/2019 13:31:05

Personally, yes, spar webs. Massive increase in strength for a modest increase in weight. Grain vertical of course. Servos in the tail, even nine gram ones, will require quite a bit of weight in the nose to counter-balance. Just as well that you are moving the motor bulkhead forward. yes

Looks great.

Thread: HobbyKing Why did I order from HobbyKing?????
26/02/2019 13:18:50

If that is what you told them Rocker, I am not surprised that they were not much help. Good luck with your next supplier by the way!

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