Here is a list of all the postings Gary Binnie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Flair Fokker D.VII Build|
Have to admit I've got a few in the loft that are 'in progress'!
This will be a good model once the bugs are ironed out.
It was initially prone to nosing over on take off and flew with full up trim, I removed a strip of lead from the firewall which improved it a lot (CG still within limits).
I shall clean the rust off and use good epoxy.
Soon be back in the air again.
Old thread alert! Did this model get finished?
To cut a long story short I acquired one of these recently, a house clearance item so I have no history. I believe the model had not flown and the engine (Laser 70) probably needs running in.
I suffered a lean cut on the second flight today, managed to pull off a reasonable dead stick landing into a rough part of the field but the model caught a large thistle and ground looped. At first I thought there was no damage but when I picked it up the top wing was loose, the metal strut attachment strips had pulled out of the wing.
In the photos here a dowel or spigot is shown passing through the plates, is that how it should be?
It was lucky that I didn't try a loop!
|Thread: Setting up for Flaps|
I'm afraid all my electro gliders are on Jeti now but I'm fairly sure the channel assignment was by the JR manual.
I know at one stage I used the Aux 4 port but can't remember why, I also had an intermittent right flap problem (sometimes it moved, other times it froze), spent ages looking at the wiring but in the end it was down to a conflicting mix.
There is a function on the DSX9 (and others) which changes the throttle stick control between throttle and crow brake depending on the flight mode, I think it's called 'moto hold' but I never dabbled with that.
On Y leads, the higher performance gliders can have their flaps move up (reflex) for a high speed/low drag aerofoil. This handily also means that the flaps can work opposite each other for extra roll control, in that case the flaps can't easily share a channel. The independent sub trim function for each flap would be lost though mechanical adjustment would still be available through the pushrod clevis.
The problem might be in the 'DeviceSEL menu.
This is my menu for an F5J glider, I have the motor on a switch only (labelled T.hold.Mix on theTx), crow braking enabled in all flight modes on the left stick (Mode 2).
Prog Mix 4 is MOTO > AUX2 (Pos 0 = -125% Pos 1 = 125%)
I have other mixes in there but they are just elevator compensation, ailerons up for crow and snap flap (elevator/flap mix).
I moved to a DSX12 which has the same wacky glider channel assignments, it can do a six servo wing but it's mighty awkward. I gave up and moved to Jeti where you tell the transmitter what channel you want things on.
Here's the screenshot.
It's on another website but I built a Hacker Fly glider for fun.
It has a clockwork dethermaliser timer (can be seen in post 11) and an autorudder.
Perhaps a KeilKraft Caprice would be good for you to start with, I've not built one myself.
|Thread: Wot wing for wots wot....|
If I am wrong then so is Chris Foss.
This thread is about the Wots Wot biplane, not the various monoplane Wots.
The engine choice (weight) dictates swept wing or not. From the instructions if an engine weighing 20 to 28 ounces is chosen then the wings should be straight, if an engine under 20 ounces is chosen then the wings should be swept and the designed CG moved 1" rearwards.
Also from the instructions a heavy engine can be used with straight wings and tail weight.
You could go mad and have one wing straight and the other swept like mine. Not in the instructions and you have to work out new interplane strut positions.
The Pitts Special is like this.
|Thread: Advice please on Wots Wot engine|
I must have been thinking of another model with the nose length option.
It is the optional sweep back or straight wings that decide the weight of the engine.
Straight wings for engines weighing 20 to 28 ounces. CG 3.75 inches forward of trailing edge at centre section.
Swept wings for engines under 20 ounces. CG 2.75 inches.
I have a straight lower wing and a swept upper wing, CG between the two options!
I have an ASP 61 two stroke in mine.
If I remember correctly there is an option at the fuselage building stage to either have a long nose or a short nose depending on the weight of the intended engine (for CG position).
|Thread: Refinishing classic fibreglass fuselages|
I've got a thread on the BARCS website on restoring a MPX Flamingo Contest.
There are before and after photos. I used Rustoleum 'Painters Touch' white which I'm fairly sure is an enamel. Gave a nice finish with no undercoat. Think I bought it in Homebase or B&Q.
Can't report how durable it is as I've not been able to fly it since the restoration.
I have an MPX ASW22, DG600 and Fiesta, all unrestored but flyers.
Sprayed a Teakle Vega with Flair Spectrum/Spectra which was disappointing, could have been a bad batch or my technique.
|Thread: Spruce or Obechi for a wing spar?|
I have a Screwfix wallpaper pasting table (cost a whole tenner!) made of pine, smells lovely in the car! I use it to avoid bending down at the flying field, back is not good.
To put the spars I posted above into context here are the gliders they turned into, Hi-Phase and Centi-Phase.
Spruce spar, reinforced at the root using tapered sections.
End result, reinforced with ply and balsa webbing.
Splicing from spruce to balsa mid-span.
Credit belongs to Chris Foss who drew the plans for these gliders.
Not heard of problems gluing spruce before, I guess it's possible. The only other wood I have known to be used for spars (apart from balsa) is basswood, common in American kits.
Spruce spars can be designed for weight saving, particularly important in large gliders. I have a jig in my workshop so that I can plane spars to a taper for tip panels.
Another idea is to use spruce at the root end of the wing panel then splice to balsa further out.
My dad said that Obeche was used by modellers during WWII when balsa was used for Mosquito production and that any models he built didn't fly very well!
|Thread: Tyre wear|
I had this on my S-Max when I bought it a year ago.
Believed it was a rear wheel bearing making the noise, so I changed it, no difference.
Took it to my local tyre shop where the manager spotted stepped tread blocks.
Caused by the rear suspension arms being out of adjustment (toe setting), they are adjusted with eccentric cams.
Tyre place said that they're often out of adjustment straight from the factory.
Four wheel alignment done (Hunter I think it was called) and a new set of tyres, bliss!
The S-Max, Galaxy and Mondeo share the same chassis.
|Thread: Xtra Wot|
SMC often have one in stock, being very close to Chris. I got my XtraWot from there.
Virtually finished, recently painted with two pack paint that is not fuelproof, back to the drawing board!!
|Thread: Mystery Glider help!!!|
Not sure but it seems to me that there is a third wing panel missing, a centre section.
The span is not enough for a thermal type model.
No worries, I meant electric motor launch by electric.
There is another BMI glider with a T tail, Cortina 2200 but that is also electric launch and looks like it doesn't have ailerons.
It might forever remain a mystery!
Looks like the JP Greensleeves/Maxford USA Greensleeves or BMI Valbella but they are electric and this glider looks like it has a T tail.
Looks Chinese, possibly made in the same factory.
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