Member postings for edgar

Yes, I am using a 620 and I'm perfectly happy with it, it's not quite as small as I expected (my fault, I should have checked) but easy to install with no antenna to think about.

Yes I got lucky last year on eBay, £60. Someone was having a clear

out.

Thanks CS, Very helpful. There no need to reply to my pm. Approximately 5/8 under each wing it will be.

Thanks, I'll try a pm.

Hi John, just seen your post. In absence of any other information I'll do as you suggest. Thanks again.

Thanks Dennis, its a foam wing with a fibreglass bandage and no brace, but, your suggestion did make me go back and look at the plan and the parts again. After studying the wings i can see that the root of the lower wings, where they will join, is cut at an angle, if I match the edges up by hand, then one wingtip is raised about 3/8 inch. This obviously isn't very accurate though. If I do the same thing with the upper wing halves I get the impression of a flat wing. I am becoming convinced there should be a small amount of dihedral. Not sure how much (possibly 3/8 inch).

Hmm. Thanks John I wonder, I've stared at lots of pictures as well. The top wing certainly is flat but the instructions seem to make the point that the lower wing is different, and direct me to pack up the wing tips when joining. In some of the pictures in CS earlier 2012 thread there does appear to be some dihedral, but not very much. Very confusing.

How much dihedral for the lower wing on a Galaxy Domino?

I am building one of these from a kit I bought on eBay last year. The kit is complete (I think) with the plan and instructions, but there seems to be a typo in the instructions, because it says in Step 38:

'Join the lower wings with no sweepback but each tip is packed up 0/0" for the dihedral.'

So obviously a fraction of an inch, but which one? I vaguely seem to remember discussing zero divided by zero in A Level maths, but that was 50 years ago and it's not helping me. I have studied the plan and the rest of the instructions to no avail (I might have missed something). I have also read the previous thread and build from 2012 (thanks Concord Speedbird, very helpful) but this didn't give me an answer.

Any suggestions?

I visited the warehouse a few months ago to collect some Clearcoat and looked at the Solartex seconds while I was there. It all looked ok from a distance, but on close inspection I could see the defects. These seemed mostly to be lines or streaks along the length of the roll. I think you might be able to work round them on a small model but I decided not to buy any on the basis of my inspection. I think you would need to examine the defects in person before buying any.

I had some excellent wings from Geoff at Foamwings last year. Last time I looked his website was less than wonderful (no option to email) but he is very helpful and my wings were ready in 10 days.

A fellow club member had one of these (I don't know which one) on a small racing drone (quadracopter), the tracker seemed to work if the drone crashed with a clear line of sight to the receiver, but this (obviously) didn't seem to happen often. If the drone landed inverted, in a dip in the ground, in long grass etc. (I.e. all the situations it was most needed) it was as almost useless, with range reduced to a couple of metres. It therefore worked fine when the drone was in clear view but not if it was hidden. Some might be better than this, but I don't think they have a very powerful signal, and I suspect many may be subject to the same limitations.

I've never built a Wots Wot either, but my first kit since I was 15 was a Wot 4 (a forty year gap), this was after building two ARTF trainers. The finished item was not perfect but it flew well enough and no one else noticed the imperfections. Based on my experience, I would say that it probably is suitable for a first time kit builder, especially a competent mechanic and carpenter (I do not consider myself to be either of these) who has repaired a few built up ARTFS. In terms of the power source Geoff has given some sound advice, it might be helpful to have the details of this clear at the start, because it will probably determine the position of the firewall very early in the build. If you search for Wots Wot on this forum there are one or two useful building tips which might help.

I visited the Solarfilm warehouse a few weeks ago, they are closing, manufacturing stopped some time ago but, at the time of my visit, there were stock of various covering and othe materals available (I bought Clearcoat, which isn't available by mail order). They had both normal (first?) quality and seconds available in various lengths. I was told they would be attending shows (i dont know which ones) this year and continuing to sell on line until everything was sold, I expect stocks will be reducing and some items will be sold out. It might be worth giving them a ring, i did and tge person i spoke to was very helpful.

Sorry I can't answer your other questions.

Sorry Paul family stuff intervened

Successful maiden of my repaired Xtrawot, here are before and after pictures, I'll leave you to guess which is which!

Hi Paul, it's £202 here Link, but I don't know how much shipping will be

I have used NMN in the past to fix a foam cored wing, I stopped using it because Gorilla Glue and Uhu Por seem better. The NMN seemed to work OK though.

Hi Jon, I don't have any instructions but in my recent rebuild I found a post here **LINK** useful (third one down)

When I spoke to Geoff at Foamwings last summer he told me he planned to start making these kits, he was very busy at the time and I don't know if he has made any progress with this, these are his contact details if this is of interest. There's nothing on his website but is good at answering his phone.

Leeds model shop shows one SC 52 in stock if that is of inerest

http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_22&products_id=738