Here is a list of all the postings Tim C has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Removing anodizing|
Caustic soda, widely available in good hardware shops and the likes of b and q, likely not in your local supermarket. Do follow the instructions when dissolving the crystals it gives of a lot of heat when mixed with water
Dip the parts in Caustic Soda, Rubber Gloves and goggles are essential, don't leave too long in the solution as it will eat the aluminium. It will leave the surface clean and smooth for polishing, clear coat will help keep oxidizing at bay but is not essential, I have renovated old anodised cycle parts into shiny new parts, not bothered clear coating, a quick polish every now and then keeps them looking good despite the exposure to the elements.
|Thread: BMFA numbers. Is this true, or a gross exaggeration?|
If the demographic stats are to be believed, the number of 60 to 74 year olds will increase by 1.35m in the next decade, this should be a target market for growth. It’s up to clubs to attract new entrants, I reckon half our club never fly, but regular monthly meetings talks and events keep people interested
|Thread: Valdez Stol Record breaker build blog|
The HK system works well enough on light weight electrics, Its only about 3gm total AUW. I have used it on several of my models. The main body of stress is taken up by the bracket attached to the fuse, the rudder merely provides the turning action, a pull pull system provides a degree of stretch negating the need for separate linkages, the 3d printed arm has a degree of flex as well. I always use MG servos on the rudder as well.
This is my simple steerable tailwheel, it’s based on an HK item, although only the metal bracket remains from the original, a bit of 2mm wire is bent to shape, a 3d printed wheel mounting bracket was printed up, and cyanoed to the wire, a 2mm axel was added and 16mm Banggood tail wheel used, a 2mm nut was cyanoed on to retain the wheel.
A groove and hole is made in the rudder, and the whole assembly will be mounted on the plain, you need some reasonably stout rudder hinges, I am using pinned hinges, fluffy Mylar would not be strong enough.
Edited By Tim C on 13/11/2019 09:07:57
I posted in error on Martins build blog yesterday, **LINK**,
iin response to Stevens question on battery location, I have not finally made the choice, will depend where the CG comes out, I made a hole in former F2 to allow the battery to be located longitudinally hopefully with underside hatch, otherwise flush against the firewall if it needs to be further forward.
|Thread: Li`l Cub|
Progress stalled over the summer, weather was too nice for building and I was never going to finish it for the club construction and finish competition, in addition impending wedding of Daughter 1, meant the temporary loss of workshop factories, as it was requisitioned for storage ! , anyway back to work now the wedding has passed and nights are drawing in.
I have been working on completing the flaps and ailerons, and mounting the elevator and rudder servos. For the rudder I am using a pull-pull system, the cables get a clear run from the servos to the rudder. For the elevator I am using a snake, I designed and 3d printed these mounts to support the snake, they will get painted black in due course, but look more “scale” and part of the open structure.
currently working on a steerable tail wheel, using a modified hobby king mount, more soon.
Edited By Tim C on 12/11/2019 09:32:59
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
I read the BBC article on the website this morning, the headline was a load of tosh, as it implied that owners had to register there drones, so I complained to the BBC that there reporting was misleading and inaccurate.
low and behold the headlines been changed and updated and now reads UK drone pilots have 25 days to register with regulator, better but still misleading as the distinction between operators and pilots is still lost!
|Thread: Exhaust stubs for TN 62" Hurricane|
Allen, yes that’s the one
This is from a thingiverse file, one I did for a pss hurticane
th er e are options for different styles
|Thread: Cheap Chinese Laser Cutter|
My local plan print shop offers scan to pdf, around a fiver for an A0 sized sheet
BG even offers tariff insurance for a couple of £, will refund charges if they get incurred!!!!!!!
BG is indeed Chinese, there are outlets in the US , HK and EU, depending on product you may have multiple locations to choose from, use China where possible, generally carriage is free or at low cost, locations that don’t deliver to uk are usually greyed out.
I have never been hit with duties for BG goods from China, they use some pretty innovative courier routings, I have had stuff airfreighted via Bacu to Prague , then roaded to the Uk and then delivered by one of my usual delivery couriers Yodel, no idea how they do it! But always seems to work. There is always a risk of duty on items of this value. The 2500mw laser by Elkesmaker is £162 delivered at the moment, try Elkesmake in the BG search box
Inkscape is available INKSCAPE DOWNLOADin MAC OSX, its a great program, I have used it for most of my 2D vinyl cutting designs as well as general design and faffing around program, I see Lightburn is in MAC OSX as well, no experience of this though
Edited By Tim C on 27/09/2019 10:07:47
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Sabre & MiG15 RCM&E 2018 Special|
Not enough air to the fan, I got nearer 700gm on my kitchen scales in a raw open test, if the the motor is being starved of air, or the thrust tubes restrictive you will loose a lot of thrust, your amp draw looks about right.
|Thread: Li`l Cub|
You can see my build on Peter Millers original Valdez thread, its a similar state to your, just fitting out the completed airframe and final covering to do. Its leccy, and like you a few mods to the plans, top hinged Ailerons, slotted hinge flaps. I used 5mm Dowel and 3mm Bamboo for the frame, its turned out very light and strong., I got my 5mm dowel from SLEC, but note that the local Hobbycraft have plenty, B&Q have plenty 6mm dowel if people want to follow the plan, I think balsa dowel would be a bit weak.
|Thread: Valdez Stol Record breaker build blog|
Having completed the dummy motor, attention has been focused on fitting out the wings and airframe.
I had moulded the slats a few weeks ago, my first attempt ended in failure as it delaminated due to insufficient glue. For the 2n attempt is used 1 x 1/16 and 3 x 1/32, it’s thinner than Peters plan, but laminated is plenty stiff enough, it the slot gap which is important more than the aero shape, after a bit of planing and sanding, the final shape is emerging. I used Titebond glue, leave plenty of time to dry before removing. These come in at 23g each, it the weight of the glue!
I printed up the 10 slat fixings on the 3d printer, to get the exact wing LE profile, I’d traced round the wing profile, scanned the image into inkscape, and created a 2d outline, the SVG file was then exported and imported into 123d and the 2|d shape made into a 3d object, the whole process took no more than 10 mins, I just then printed out 10 fixings, they are hollow and weigh about .3 gm each.
slat trail fitting, final sanding and finishing still to do, undecided about what glue to use, cyano works well for pla to balsa as does Kaufner 2 part Acrylic glue.
Dummy motor nearing completion, trial fitting and some final finishing to do. Tad under 2 oz, a total of 33 separate parts, will fix on with 2 self tappers.
As the crankcase came of the printer
After rubbing down, 2 coats of Halfords auto primer and 2 coats of dulux airbrushed on, will finish with coat of lacquer. Cylinders just temp awaiting finishing, just stuck on with double sided tape for the moment.
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