Here is a list of all the postings Graham Eccles has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The November Grand Prize Draw|
|Batteries charged and ready to go !!!|
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis Spitfire|
The lead was stuck to the inside of the cowl cheeks as close as possible to the nose ring in order to reduce the amount of ballast required. Suspect if I had covered the model in Solarfilm then I could have got the weight down further. I did cover the tail surfaces with tissue instead of glassfibre in an attempt to reduce the tail weight.
The formers ribs etc. all cut from the material specified on the plan and purchased from SLEC, the quality of the balsa they supplied was excellent. I added a couple of horizontal formers in the front to help set the thrust angle and support the fuel tank but otherwise built to the plan.
The total weight includes everything except the fuel and wheel/undercarriage fairing (these likely to get knocked off by the grass on our strip)
finished and first flew my model a couple of weeks ago, it's taken a long time but well worth it, looks really good in the air and great fun to fly.
Fitted with ASP 61FS, unitracts retracts and 6 standard size servos. Covered it in light-weight glass, water-based Acrylic Resin and then sprayed it with Spectrum paint. I should really have weighed it before covering. All the formers and ribs cut using a little CNC router at work, shame you don't supply the .dxf files, hope this info helps.
Thanks once again for a great model !
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit|
Just Engines who sell the ASP engines also do a range of three bladed prop's and spinners. I suggest you send them an email and ask them what they would recommend for the Spitfire.
yep, you need an long hex driver, I bought a cheap ratchet one from the local market stall many years ago. They only cost a couple of quid and useful for all sorts of jobs.
Good luck with whichever method you go for
I used Blind Nuts to bolt the engine mount to the front bulkhead and secure them to the bulkhead with a bit of epoxy, hex head capscrews used to fix the mount. Then I fixed the motor in position and built up the side cheeks, top decking and fillets ensuring they all clear the motor. When the above dry I marked the position the the front lite-ply ring removed the motor and sanded the front flat ready for gluing the lite-ply ring in place. Refit the motor and spinner and glue the lite-ply ring in place. I then added the bottom 12mm & 9mm sheeting to clear the motor (don't glue yet) removed the motor and then glued the sheeting into position. Sand the nose to shape and then start removing balsa until you can slide the motor back into position. For fixing the motor you need enough clearance to get a screwdriver between the motor and the side cheeks. You should have enough room through the front lite-ply ring to tighten the capscrews on the engine mount. I applied a drop of thread-lock on the capscrews on the final assembly.
Hope that helps.
Keith, my Spitfire still not complete but for your information I am using the Unitracts De-luxe sport retracts c/w sport oleo legs and Robart scale diamond wheel 3.25" diameter. When retracted the wheels are locked up against the inside of the wing skin, i.e the bridging piece on rib W4 removed completely. I found you can reduce the width of the wheel slightly by turning the hub round. I fitted the retracts (temporary) and did the wheel well prior to sheeting the bottom surface rather than doing it when the wing completely skinned. To reduce the size of the wheel well I angled the walls back at the retract angle which appears to work ok.
Hope this helps
Brent, this thread for the 63" wingspan Spitfire, I suspect from what you say you are probably building the smaller 46" wingspan model. I suggest you check your plan before people start quoting all sorts of motor and battery combinations.
Martin, thats a great help.
I assume you applied the Spectra/Spectrum paint with a brush, approximately how many tins of paint did it take to cover the model ?
I feel a paint order coming on !
thanks for the info, I will check the wing & tailplane incidences before fixing. I'm using a ASP61 4 stroke up the front end which according to data slightly lighter (15g) than your YS63S. I covered the wing in Poly-C and 0.6oz glass and will probably go for glass on the fuselage and tissue on the tail surfaces to keep the weight down at the back end.
What type of paint did you use ?
I am nearing the end of the building stage and am getting ready for adding the detail, painting etc. I don't like the sound of the 9oz of lead up front and a rearward c.g. have you got a weight for the finished model and how does it compare to the 7lb quoted in the magazine.
|Thread: Wire benders|
|I bought one off the web 12 months ago www.ncsl.co.uk/wirebender|
|Thread: Precedent Lo-Boy|
|A new member of our club purchased a Precedent Lo-Boy off eBay. Do any of you Lo-Boy experts have the following information to assist in setting it up.|
1) position of the c.g.
2) total weight (model feels heavy)
3) approximate throws on control surfaces
4) recommended engine (OS40 2 stroke fitted)
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 63" Spit|
forgot the retract servo, SuperTec S136GH
some reference to the 63" Spitfire in the thread "Mistakes in plans" but not found anything else. I'm currently building the model using the Unitracts sport retracts, ASP 61 4 stroke engine and five Futaba S3004 standard servo's. Fortunately I have access to a CNC router at work therefore cut out my own ribs, bulkheads etc. rather than buying the CNC wood pack from RCM&E. Approaching the end of the building stage and about to start covering, still not sure if I am going for epoxy/glass, Poly-C/glass or film.
Going on holiday tonight for ten days (back for Woodvale) therefore don't have time to post any pictures. Will let you know when I'm back.
|Thread: Blue, Pink or Rainbow Foam|
|I purchase Blue Foam (Styrofoam) from the following model shop, not found any DIY outlets who stock it.|
Blackburn Model Supplies
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