Here is a list of all the postings i12fly has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Who wants to share a new Flair Baronette build?|
I used to have a Baronette (10 yrs ago), really enjoyed flying it,
-fix the wheels to a revolving axle (but is taxiing hopeless?)
-fit a gyro?
some other method that is less obtrusive?
The problem seemed to be that on take off the rudder was blanketed by one of the wings, but then suddenly it became over effective and finished up in a ground loop. In the air though it was different and magic, turning using rudder and keeping the wing up using opposite aileron it would turn on a sixpence just like the full size.
|Thread: How many flyable aircraft do you have ?|
Only 7 plus one almost completed.
2 are IC and I don't have any usable fuel, I don't intend to buy any but I do plan to convert to electric -do these count
Limited space means that it is one in / one out now
|Thread: Gas engineers|
Agreed Ken, that's why I referred to Gas Engineer repeatedly. On another note it is particularly important that chimney flue appliances are checked at least annually by a good engineer as a partial blockage or leak can be lethal. Particularly chimney flue gas fires must be checked.
One particular bugbear that gets my goat is when the TV and magazine warning 'adverts' say Carbon Monoxide doesn't smell. That is absolutely true, pure CO is odourless -but what they don't say is that if you get a CO leak you often/usually get other products of combustion leaking that do smell. The reason I raise this is that I've had quite a number of people say to me " I didn't think it was CO because I could smell it and thought it must be safe". In each case the levels of CO were hazardous -the worst was in a children's playroom. Gas Safe took no interest when the issue of smell was raised with them. In a 5 year period 'on the road' I found more dangerous appliances that were nothing to do with the job that I had gone to see. What never ceased to amaze me is how nasty people could be when you pointed out their health/lives were at risk and disconnection was mandatory.
Hi Fly Boy 3, glad you sorted it OK. I'm now retired but used to design them. The old boilers tend to be reliable because there are few working parts but need to be safety checked regularly and you do lose out on efficiency now. Spares become the problem when a unique part fails and the only solution is boiler replacement.
Electronics on boilers used to be problematical because manufacturers had to rely on suppliers who lacked experience, but the very latest models from the big manufacturers are pretty reliable -such that they can give 10 year warranties to cover you. They are quite complex beasts though, as they have to comply with ever tightening regulations, so perfection is not ensured. That's where the long warranty helps. It is important to use a good engineer that has been factory trained at the appliance manufacturer, somebody that knows what they are doing, as diagnosing faults on the phone is very difficult, there are still too many engineers that cannot use a multimeter properly. Inbuilt diagnostics are good, but useless when the diagnosing part (the electronics) has failed. Often faults are not on the appliance itself but the system it is connected to, which an installer may be reluctant to admit......
FB3, first question is why will it not light?
Are you using the right technique (once lit holding the gas valve open for 20-30 seconds until the thermocouple has heated up). It's easy to forget .
If pilot not lighting:
Can you see a spark at the pilot head through the pilot window? if yes then the likelihood is that dirt is distorting the flame pattern and gas is not reaching the spark (common with a cast heat exchanger)
If no spark then there is something wrong with either:
a) the electrode lead (most likely fault the insulation sleeve near the electrode has burnt and the wire probably corroded and broken) easily replaced by a universal electrode lead -a decent heating engineer should carry some
b) the electrode is broken (would need to be replaced, you may find one by googling using the part no. and picture in the spares list in the instructions, other Olympic models will probably use the same part)
c) the spark generator/igniter may have failed, the least likely fault. You can test this by disconnecting the electrode lead at the generator (this is outside the sealed box so not interfering with safety aspects) push a short piece of wire into the generator and hold the other end of the wire about 3mm from the metalwork. Wear a rubber glove or something so you don't get a shock. Press the igniter and you should see a spark on to the metalwork.
The other question is why the pilot goes out in wind, this needs a good gas engineer to sort, most likely cause is either:
a) Poor yellow floppy pilot flame due to lack of service (air ports partially blocked or dust around pilot jet)
b) Worn thermocouple, they deteriorate with age, typical life 4 to 105 years,your gas engineer should carry universal spares
c) Pilot shield not fitted correctly
d) worn seals on the combustion chamber or flue doors, or case seals, this is often overlooked by gas engineers but is important as it upsets the 'balance' of the balanced flue design. The boiler should be room sealed.
e) the balanced flue terminal is not positioned in accordance with the instructions (no solution for this!)
As John above recommends, get a (good) older heating engineer, 55+, my experience is that young chaps only know about electronic systems and haven't a clue how to test thermocouple systems.
|Thread: Ribs - 'C' Grain, But What Density? (for Chilli Wind)|
Never bothered with C grain myself (up to 60" span) and used medium to soft balsa. with unpleasant arrivals I've had spars crack but not ribs....
|Thread: SC 91fs will not stop.|
It could be bottom tolerance barrel in a top tolerance hole in the carb (or wear). I had a similar experience but on a new 2 stroke. A couple of drops of after run oil onto the barrel of the carb every month stopped the tiny air leak and cured it.
|Thread: Bluebird 2018|
Some good points made Stu and I agree.
What is really telling is that there was no reference to the restoration completion and runs in the Ruskin -and no information about it when I asked either
What would be nice is if a permanent site could be found on the edge of Coniston and occasional runs made winter and summer. It should definitely not be bricked up in the Ruskin museum now it is restored. I'd have thought a crowd funding project would attract enough funds to give overall ownership to the restorers(?)
Having seen the accident on TV in '67 and the run on TV in 2018, when I was near Coniston a few months ago I saw adverts to see Bluebird at the Coniston museum. It was late in the day but I thought £13 for us to see it was well worthwhile. I was a bit disappointed though as it wasn't the rebuilt Bluebird but just the original wrecked engine and a couple of panels that could not be restored. But hey-ho, it is still an important part of history. Donald Campbell was an extremely brave man, he knew he was taking a big risk but still went ahead.
|Thread: NEW POLL - do you use a throttle kill switch?|
Would if I could! On my early version Futaba T7C there is the easy to set throttle cut for IC, but for electric I tried setting up a mix with a switch and although it seemed to be set up correctly (with help from the instructions), and getting advice from this forum it would not work. So I gave up and make the connection just before take off and disconnect immediately on landing before picking up the model etc. Any good advice on how to use a Tx switch would be most welcome
|Thread: Safety tip when buying from places like ebay & Bangood|
Crudely, the 'RCD' in effect checks the current passing up and passing down the live and neutral. It only trips when there is an imbalance between the two - i.e. if there is a leak to earth (if about 30mA IIRC). So when you touch live, a small amount of current goes to earth and it trips. IIRC it takes about 80mA to electrocute the average person, less if you've got heart problems etc.
The problem arises if you touch both the live and neutral together, and you're wearing well insulated shoes, then the current passes through you from hand to hand right past your heart, and the RCD (or RCCB) does not trip.
Don't ask me how I know, but maybe I'm still here to annoy people just because I have very dry hands, sweaty/dirty hands may have been different, but I didn't feel inclined to repeat the experiment in the interests of science.
Maybe an electrical engineer would like to correct the figures if incorrect.....
It is illegal to sell an appliance/equipment without the correct plug for the intended country, that is where adaptors are useful because an untrained operative can fit them, if the supplier cuts off the foreign plug and fits a UK plug then competence has to be verified and the equipment tested. I thought a fuse was mandatory though(?)
I am talking about legitimate CE marked equipment here
Edited By i12fly on 21/10/2019 20:58:50
|Thread: Latest CAA Update|
I say well done BMFA, I hope they will be able to fight on and achieve further concessions that will keep our flying sites open from the point of view of distance to 'uninvolved persons' and building etc.
I'll continue to support them where possible.
To sum up my take on this:
Registration and on-line testing will happen, but so what -it is easy to do and will not stop us flying. (Disobeying the law will invalidate your insurance so very silly to risk your house and belongings if you have an accident).
Electronic conspicuity will be required retrospectively for our drones/ planes within 2 years, but there is no current practical gizmo to this for our homebuilts, but the experts say it can be done and so will be almost certainly be included by legislation. One bright spark said that as drones can be operated from your phone so this could be the answer (he obviously has limited experience. The possibility of registering our flying sites was not reported so will not be considered.
But the worst is “be conducted at a safe horizontal distance of at least 150m from residential, commercial, industrial or recreational areas”. This is from the edge of where you fly, not the take off point! I see this as killing off many of our club sites. This is printed on the CAA Drone Code so is presumably current from the end of November(?). I hope that BMFA can comment on this (Andy?). I feel this will kill off our hobby to the majority without some relaxation of the rule, but no action seems forthcoming.
It seems to me from reading the docs that EASA have taking a pragmatic view for model associations but our Government and their advisors ‘know better’ and ignore our responses. So the BMFA news seems somewhat optimistic.
BMFA seem to be a lone voice, shouted down by people who are only interested in multirotor drones. Good luck BMFA, I appreciate you are doing your best.
I must say that I’ve read so many documents tonight with 100’s of pages that perhaps I’ve missed something positive for the critical issues, but I’m sure someone here will put me right
I think most of our models come under the A3 category, which CAP 1789 states:
-No flight within 150m horizontally of residential, commercial, industrial or recreational areas
-No uninvolved people present within the area of flight.
When you consider the area our models cover during a normal in visual line of sight flight, will this kill off many of our current flying sites from 1st July next year. Or am I missing something?
|Thread: 2019 Special Issue|
Agree that the articles are definitely very good, just a bit disappointed with the plans. With 7, I thought there would have been another of TN's excellent EDF jet plans and say one intermediate sports/semi scale of 50+" span. But hey ho, it wont stop me continuing to subscribe.
Its a good magazine and I'm looking forward to seeing how KC develops future issues. He made a good job of RCMW and I was just about to subscribe to that too when it folded.
|Thread: Flair Models - a question|
say they can supply Flair kits, made to order with 8 - 12 weeks lead time. Don't know if this is still the case but it still shows on their website
|Thread: 2019: Britain's new air disaster|
John Bisset, I like it!
|Thread: New Poll - sticky situations.....|
It's quite surprising how thick skin is on your finger tips if you've got very dry skin like me!
It was all a few years ago and I now have a bottle of de-bonder, I've never had to use it (yet) and to be frank I'm not sure where it is and if I could find it now
Hmm.... Didn't realise torsion would help release. It would have helped release the thumb but the 2 fingers were stuck together as well as to the bottle so difficult to move. Did manage to get free without any blood spilt but I had a few sore patches.....
Fortunately it was my right hand and I'm left handed, otherwise it would have been more difficult wielding the knife.
I'm more careful now if I need to use CA, preferring Aliphatic where possible
My bad experience was due to a poorly fitting capillary tube into the top of a large bottle of CA. I made the balsa joint OK but after, when I turned the bottle the right way up, escaped CA ran down the side of the bottle and glued 2 fingers and thumb to the bottle. Quite difficult to remove as I couldn't turn my hand over or the bottle would have emptied, I hadn't got any de-bonder or acetone either.....
I kept me quiet with a sharp knife for about an hour
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!