Here is a list of all the postings Alan Gorham_ has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: plastic sheet to cover plan?|
Yes I use the SLEC sheet.
|Thread: cleaning cox 049|
You are quite right and I was wrong Martin. However, thinking about the OPs fuel more, I doubt I would buy nitro to add to 5% nitro fuel to try and make a 25% nitro mix. By the time you had bought the nitro and the extra oil it would most certainly be cheaper and simpler to buy a litre of pre mixed 25% nitro fuel. That is definitely still possible without the need to obtain a license and would suit most Cox engines just fine.
Like Peter said, the cylinder gumming up is not really your major concern with Reed valve Cox engines. It's the fuel passage/needle and the Reed. I always used to inject a ml or so of IPA into the thread where the needle screws in to hopefully wash out any fuel residue before storing the engine.
I'm not sure 3 in 1 oil is very good for model engines.
I think your facts on the Cox Texaco may be wrong. I always thought that came onto the market in the late 1980s to suit a competitive class that was popular in the US then. Also I am fairly certain that the Texaco engine was designed to run on lower nitro fuel than most other Coxes.
You most certainly can buy nitro on it's own in small quantities without I license. Model Technics and Southern Modelcraft both sell it.
Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 18/04/2020 20:11:05
I don't think you are meant to power up ignition units without the plug in.
|Thread: Pink and Purple Super Sixty|
I think you are looking for igull run by Neil Gillies. Unfortunately on his ebay shop he has posted the following message:
"Hi All,Sadly, due to the current Covid restrictions here in Scotland and the UK, I have decided to close down the Igull Laser store for the forseeable future. Hopefully, we will open as soon as these restrictions have been lifted.Please, please stay safe and as always, 'Happy Flying' !!! Best regards Neil"
|Thread: C.A.P No.19 DH Tiger Moth 70"|
Sarik and Traplet before them sell the old CAP plans and parts.
I think this is what you are looking for:
|Thread: Another "which radio?" Question|
People probably start by not caring about the protocol that their radio link uses.
If budgetary concerns are an issue why not see what sets fit your budget and then perhaps look at the support available for the actual functional programming of the radio (either direct from the manufacturer or on forums or YouTube etc) and use that to make your decision.
|Thread: Do you know what this BiPlane is!|
I remember there was a kit review in RCM&E. I'm sure the review model was covered in the same scheme as your and in fact I think the company used to have a model decorated in the same scheme in their ads. I really can't remember if it was supposed to have cabane struts or not. I vaguely think it didn't have any and that was a unique design point.
It was a commercial kit made in Ulster in the early 1990's. I think the manufacturer was called Ulster Model Products, but I'm relying on memory there. It was marketed as the AeroBi46. Note that back then it was common for cottage industry kit manufacturers to hand mark and hand cut kits so no surprise to see pencil markings.
|Thread: DH89a Dragon Rapide|
I wouldn't necessarily take Alex Whittaker's word as gospel on someone else's model. This is the man that in his column in the magazine a few months ago would have us believe that Duncan Hutson the designer of many scale models was also responsible for the Flair Hannibal and Magnatilla! When it was obviously the work of Dudley Pattison of Flair...
|Thread: Chrome covering|
so I'm thinking it would need covering in chrome film,
The second is in your last post:
It would be those rather than chrome films that I would use
In between, you've doled out a lot of advice on how all the suggestions you've been given in good faith are poor solutions. You seem to already know the direction you wish to take on this front, so it does seem like most contributors have wasted their time offering you the benefit of their experience.
I look forward to seeing your results - should be great!
Metallised paint...just as the covering films talked about in this thread are metallised films....
If you really want a polished metal finish then you could look at FliteMetal or just build the entire model out of lithoplate. Both won't be cheap or light or easy to use!
They are both painted and to me the Spitfire looks particularly realistic. Better than "Chrome" effect iron on covering? You bet...
|Thread: Rob's F-86F NASA 228 research aircraft build|
Rob, sorry if this sounds like wise after the event, but if these pics here are the base point at which you started putting your silver paint over, then you have missed out several intermediate stages that would help to give you a better base for the top colour coats to over and also a lighter model....
When you glass with peel ply you will be left with a "stippled" texture to the glass when you have removed the peel ply. At this point you must block sand the model with something coarse such as 80 grade ali oxide paper to take off the tops of all these "stipples".
You then spray filler primer to fill the low points in the stipples, but you must then remove the primer from the high spots using wet n dry used wet. Once you have done this process in 2 or 3 iterations, you will find most low points are filled and any dings, dents or depressions should be filled with a surfacing filler such a 3M red acryl. Once you have rubbed this smooth you can put one light primer coat over the whole lot, rub that down with wet n dry used wet and only then think about putting on top colour coats.
If you do that you should barely (if at all) be able to see the weave of the glasscloth, but you will have much less paint on the model overall.
It is a ball-ache to do all that rubbing down, but worth it I feel in the end result.
|Thread: Chrome covering|
Not certain I agree with that.
These are not my models, but very much an aspiration to aim for (credit for pics and models by Phil and the team at Fighteraces).
I don't think covering models such as this in Oracover would give quite the same effect.
Oracover offer what they call Chrome film which IS backed with real aluminium and they do warn of issues with radio reception on this covering.
They also offer Brushed Aluminium film which is not metallised and may be close enough to a chrome finish for most people.
Personally I find their Chrome film to be too shiny to be realistic at model scale and it also seems prone to hangar rash which makes the model look tatty. However, that is likely to be my fault and as they say YMMV....
I prefer glassing and painting anyway!
|Thread: What Traders are still offering Mail Order? Services?|
I'm probably going to sound grumpy here but how many times is Steve Webb going to tell us in this thread that Steve Webb Models is open?
|Thread: Airbrush compressor + Tank.|
I didn't hold out great hope for the lifespan of the little compressor, but I bought mine 4 years ago and it's been well used and not cosseted. Still going strong.
I use the same device but without the tank to power my airbrush John. I only use the airbrush to paint markings such as serials, reg numbers and roundels on my models. I do build plastic models too and the quiet operation of the compressor means it can be done in the spare room!
Good to see yours comes with a moisture trap as mine definitely fills up with water on a regular basis!
I prefer a "proper" compressor with tank and spray gun for applying solid colour to the model.
Some examples of the results:
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