Here is a list of all the postings Ultymate has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sheared cheap prop bolts.|
Usually caused by a wooden prop over compressed and not re-tightened, once loose the rotational shear stress leads to the inevitable
|Thread: Flying a Turbine|
In this case you must surely worry about the veracity of the examiners that gave the flyers their "B" certificates in the first place
Edited By Ultymate on 12/05/2018 09:59:54
|Thread: Own Design 2m F3A Model|
After Nath it went to a guy called Craig who has it mothballed oh and it's had a colour change apparently
Have a thing about orange Dan ???
|Thread: Own Design 2m F3A Model|
If you're going to try a prop on that motor Dan, don't overload it they love to rev and sadly they love nitro
Coming along great Dan ! A buggy 21 will turn a prop if you can cobble up a prop driver, I did it with an OPS when I was racing buggies
I'm fine thanks Dan too old for all the travelling that goes with competing but still enjoying my flying. I'm sure given your experience in aerobatics you'll do OK
Hey up Dan, how you doing? having a bash at F3A are you ?
|Thread: Re: Death of IC|
It's degenerated into the usual tit for tat argument where everyone thinks what they do is best which was almost inevitable when the author typed in the title at post#1
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
|Thread: Photo manipulation by George Paterson|
Here's one I did earlier
|Thread: Recycle Petrol How?|
The only way I can see you not using exhaust pressure is to go to an electric pump like this Pump. I am of course assuming you've tried running your engine without pressure. The above pumps do work as a friend of mine has one on a inline 4 cylinder OS that he converted to petrol. Sadly the carbs fitted to glow engines are little more than dripping taps
|Thread: Model flying photos you're proud of|
Brian Brassey's Yak 3U a friend from Deeside MFC shot back in October
|Thread: P.A.W. 1.49 plain bearing - can't adjust compression|
When team racing I used to remove the standard "T" comp screw and replace with an allen socket screw , high tensile and sometimes a lock nut very easy to adjust with a long "T" handled allen key although once you got an optimum setting at the beginning of a days racing it was seldom that further adjustment was necessary unless there was a large change in ambient temperature. Here's a picture of an MVVS 15 in a Goodyear profile racer of mine that was modified this way
|Thread: Goldwing RC Corvus 60cc ARTF for electric set up|
As usual liking your build Adrian, but I've seen one thing which I'm not over keen on, which is where you say "oh he's here again". The thing I don't like is your rudder 3"+ output arm using plastic splines. I've done this once in the past and had said plastic splines slip whilst flying some snap rolls which left me to deal with a massive amount of rudder "trim"which made for a very tricky return to base. Ever since I've used metal arms on rudder outputs as with such a long arm you are applying massive amounts of torque to those plastic splines. keep up the good work
|Thread: One for the Jet Jocks|
A brilliant video whatever your interests
|Thread: Hitec Servo's|
Have used dozens over the years without problems. The karbonite gears are a known no-no on petrol models as the vibrations tend to shatter the karbonite
|Thread: Pilot RC Sbach 100cc|
Nah, cars too small for your S bach
A word of warning, about a week ago my DLE 120 sheared the four 5mm counter sunk set screws that hold the engine to the metal plate that then mounts to the said plate to the bulkhead via the standoffs with 6mm bolts. I was doing some 3D tumbling at the time which does I know induce fairly heavy gyroscopic loads, any way as I flew out of the tumble I was aware of a distinct change of note from the model and found that the throttle was jamned at nearly full throttle thanks to the engine moving forward in the cowl so had to promptly kill the ignition and land dead stick. I overshot the strip and took out my landing gear but repairs will not be too difficult.
The said countersunk bolts may look like they are high tensile but they are not as I drilled the remains of one quite easily, also the allen key socket is very small in them so making it difficult to give them a little more tightness and they could be longer as the holes in the rear of the crankcase are considerably deeper than the supplied bolts
I don't think I can go to bigger diameter bolts but will definitely be using high tensile bolts longer in length and not of the countersunk variety
P.S. enjoying your build thread
Edited By Ultymate on 21/11/2017 08:47:18
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