Here is a list of all the postings Trevor Crook has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: redundant at 62!|
Cliff, very sorry to hear your news, I went through redundancy a couple of times and it almost happened to me when I was 60, but managed to transfer to another part of the company and worked on for a couple more years until I retired at a time of my choosing.
I was fortunate enough to have accrued a decent pension pot, and I lived solely on drawdown from this (having converted it to a SIPP) until this year when my state pension kicked in. I took the 25% tax free lump sum to have some cash savings behind me, fortunately I was mortgage free otherwise I would have used that to pay it off.
If you have to go this route (and it doesn't sound as if you want to yet) it's vital to find a good independent financial advisor - they cost money but I've been very happy with the package my man guided me to. Of course, if you do start drawing a pension there is nothing to stop you working if something comes up.
The very best of luck in sorting something out, we will all be rooting for you.
|Thread: Power loss|
I also found the Turnigy heavy duty 2200s worked well in my Vampire. RapidRC have them in stock:
Matty's advice on the u/c is sound, but I kept mine on as I enjoy the take-off and landing parts of a flight, although fairly smooth grass is important for this model. I only ever had problems with the nose gear, had to beef up the mount area with some timber!
Re your original problem, I'd agree that the batteries are almost certainly the culprit. This could be confirmed with a cell checker plugged onto the balance connector when the motor is spooled up.
|Thread: NEW POLL - has the covid pandemic deterred you from attending shows and events in 2021?|
In recent years I've only attended Wings and Wheels and the Nationals, and I'll be happy to go to them next year if they are on. Hopefully the latter is late enough in the summer for some progress to have been made with suppressing this virus.
|Thread: Failure to launch..|
Yes, until recently I used a lot of expo (30%) on elevator for take-off and landing to help keep the tail down, but reduce sensitivity around neutral. However, I found I kept getting the landing flair wrong, and decided it was due to the non-linear response of the expo. I tried reducing it to 20%, and that works much better for me so I've left it at that.
Good points made about the torque as well. The Avios Spit is putting more than 1kW through a scale 3-blade prop which has lots of torque reaction potential. It has power to spare, so all my take-offs are at half throttle which keeps things pretty straight. As said, Spits never use take-off flap anyway, but leaving the flaps up on any warbird should mean it lifts off at a higher airspeed, so the aerodynamic surfaces have more of a chance of keeping things straight.
These warbirds can be tricky! If the model is prone to tip stall, it's probably unwise to move the cg back any more. It sounds as if you are doing everything right with your elevator and throttle handling, so I would try Matty's suggestion of taking off without flap. I've seen warbirds be more prone to nose-overs if taxied with the flaps down.
I use the flapless takeoff technique with my 1450mm Avios Spitfire and my 1400mm FMS 109, and that works fine. These models are quite resistant to noseovers though, P47s seem particularly susceptible..
|Thread: Me.109 myths|
That's a coincidence, I also have a Chiltern Models Tucano! I picked it up at a club auction in part kit form some years ago. It's a great flier with a 500W 4s leccy setup. A bit nose heavy, but that stops it tip stalling.
I also had the Provost many years ago, and that tip stalled like a good-un!
|Thread: What ESC for damped starting and stopping?|
Another vote for YEP escs, haven't checked whether HK have them in stock at present. Worth looking at one of the YouTube videos on using the programming card.
|Thread: Durafly me109e help|
Edited By Trevor Crook on 20/08/2020 08:01:23
Here you go. I even got away with a bouncy landing!
I had one of these until recently, but unfortunately haven't got any spares. I never found it particularly prone to tip stall, so perhaps your c of g is a bit rearward. The forward rake of the u/c means it is less prone to nosing over than some warbirds.
However, take-offs can be tricky as it is very prone to swing to the left. I had a couple of cartwheels when it swung left and lifted off too soon. I think the problem is caused by that big scale prop providing a lot of torque reaction, especially if flown with a 4s pack, which mine was. My take off method was:-
No more than half throttle.
Be ready with right rudder.
I'll try to post a link to a video of my one flying. I only sold it to make space for an FMS 1400mm 109, which is a pussycat by comparison!
|Thread: Foaming tank|
An anti-foaming trick I remember from my glow flying days is a couple of squirts of car dashboard cleaner in a gallon. I used to use stuff called Armor All. Contains silicon like furniture polish.
As suggested, try to get everything as balanced as possible.
|Thread: Starmax Panther|
Duplicate post deleted.
Edited By Trevor Crook on 13/08/2020 22:37:50
Tony, I had the Starmax Panther and it was a great little machine. Freewing still do one very similar, for a similar price allowing for several years of inflation.
I don't know if the Vampire you had in mind was the Durafly one. I also had one of those, a great little machine, and still available.
I think both of these still fit the affordable description. Go on, treat yourself!
|Thread: How much have you spent on modeling in 2020?|
Bought a Pheonix MP Chipmunk to build during peak lockdown, cost around £150 with motor, etc, servos etc. Having finished and flown that, bought an FMS BF109 because I fancied one, and flying had started again. That was about £280. I also spent about £30 on a couple of high C lipos for my TN Provost.
I recouped £160 by selling a couple of other models to make room, so net spend so far this year is about £300, and that will probably be it apart from a few odds and ends, and some wood for a winter project.
Barry, point taken about being careful where it goes as it's known to attack some rubbers and plastics. My wife's car key buttons had got very intermittent, and having been told of its switch cleaning properties I thought nothing to lose. I probably got the stuff all over the little circuit board, but it fixed the problem and 2 years later it's still fixed. Just because I got away with it doesn't mean it's harmless though.
It really does help removing old silicone, but obviously a thorough degrease is needed before applying fresh stuff.
It helps remove old silicone sealant from around the bath.
It works as a switch cleaner.
|Thread: The Restorers|
Martin, I believe David's son stated on the program that it was his father's prototype.
I agree about the Repair Shop. I did get a bit wound up with one restoration though - an RAF serviceman had carved a pretty good rendering of a P47, but throughout the show it was only ever referred to as a Spitfire. As I said, aeromodellers are a picky bunch.
I wouldn't have paid 4 figures for it, but I wouldn't pay 4 figures for a transmitter either, but several people I know have done so. Some of the jets we see cost as much as a fairly new car. We are a hobby that is a "broad church" and I guess we should rejoice in that.
It certainly beats trying to make a TV program that satisfies aeromodellers!
I knew as soon as I watched it this would attract plenty of hate! I thought it was reasonably good. I think any program aimed at enthusiasts would probably attract a few hundred viewers.
The provenance was provided by David's son Andrew, and the fin decoration on the model was clearly identical to the example pictured in the magazine.
Andy, it was on Quest (Freeview 12) and is being repeated on Sunday night at 10pm.
Something is worth as much as someone will pay for it, and as its not being sold we won't know.
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