Here is a list of all the postings Trevor Crook has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model shops, SW England|
I visited AK models in Teignmouth yesterday. A pretty well stocked shop, staffed at the time by a friendly and helpful young lady. There was a problem parking near the shop - it's on a trading estate, and although it's in its own little fenced compound, this was full of cars despite there being no-one else in the shop. The surrounding roads are festooned with cars and double yellow lines, and I saw clamping in evidence. I parked at the local Morrisons, and it's a 2-minute walk between buildings to get to AK. Stupidly, I forgot to ask if there was a better way, but I'm sure they would be very helpful on the phone if you are going to visit.
|Thread: C No Ohmen|
All personal preference again, but rather than stick velcro to my batteries, I prefer to strap them in. The picture above isn't very clear, but shows the balsa block at the back of the tray that stops the battery sliding backwards when I've fastened the velcro strap. I built a short "roof" to the battery tray at the front that the battery slides under, so that it can't lift, as the strap is near the rear of the battery.
I think I used some 1/4 sheet on the underside of the battery tray, either side of the former with a hole in half way down it. I then threaded a 1/16 ply plate through the former hole to be the esc mount, glued to the bits of 1/4 then velcroed the esc to it. On other smaller models I've let the esc dangle free as Peter describes, with no ill effects. I just enjoy making a neat installation.
I tried to make my air duct resemble a Gipsy engine type setup, so it's asymmetric, displaced to one side. Unfortunately none of the photos in the album on here show it clearly! It's a bit smaller than the opening on the plan, but everything stays cool, so I wouldn't worry about maxing out the intake size.
|Thread: indestructible slow flyer....|
Hobbyking Tundra is easy to fly, takes off and lands very slowly with flaps, but enough power and weight to handle a reasonable blow. Downside is it's fiddly to get the wing on and off, I leave mine assembled.
|Thread: 2019 Special Issue|
As a subscriber, I've seen many of the articles in the "Special" before, but I don't mind re-reading them as I will never know everything! Also, as a subscriber, I get 13 issues for less than £50 (plus a free set of tools) so I consider the special a bit of a bonus anyway.
Twinges of sadness to see articles by Pete Lowe and Dave Burton, reminds us of who we have lost.
|Thread: Are all chargers unreliable?|
I tend to use several individual chargers rather than a single multi-output one. I've had two iMax chargers for ages now, and they've been faultless.
I've recently added a little ToolkitRC M8, which is an amazing device for the money, but too soon to report on long term reliability.
Not sure what size that heli takes, but Overlander and 4-Max spring to mind as UK suppliers. Rapid RC sell the same Turnigy LiPos that Hobbyking sell, albeit a bit more expensive.
|Thread: Battle of Britain day|
A vic formation of a Spitfire leading 2 Mustangs went over my house on Sunday afternoon, so things were obviously going on.
Thanks Denis. I copied the photos from my phone onto my PC, and they display correctly there, they just invert during the upload process. As I said, I used the photo app in Windows to invert them in the PC file, which made them appear inverted on the PC. When I uploaded these inverted images, they still appeared inverted!
All the models flew great in the calm conditions. My Avios Spitfire is becoming my favourite, so easy to take off and land for a Spit, and just about the best scale representation you can get.
As yesterday was Battle of Britain day, a few of us brought warbirds to fly at the field. Lovely flying weather. Although only the 109E and Hurricane are true BoB era, we embraced the warbird spirit.
I've posted a couple of photos below, but as before when I've posted photos taken from my phone, they invert when I upload them to an album. I even tried using the photo feature in Windows to invert them, but they then stay inverted when uploaded! If anyone knows how to fix this, do tell. I'll try holding the phone the other way next time.
Anyway, if you make the effort to look at them, the models are as follows: Durafly BF109E, Durafly Spitfire V, E-Flite Hurricane, Avios Spitfire V, FMS FW190, Magister Trainer (ok, my Ohmen really!)
|Thread: Thinking aloud about Spits...|
Foxfan, I currently own 3 Spitfires in flying condition. All are Hobbyking foamies, so they wouldn't appeal to you, but they are around your size - 2 are 1100mm span and the other is 1450mm. I store and transport the smaller ones in one piece, the bigger one has the wing removed for storage, but fits in the car assembled.
All 3 fly well, but the most relaxing is the Durafly Mk24, which is the lightest. That's the potential pitfall with balsa building of small ones, so you are wise to consider depron. The Mk24 has adequate power on 3s, and is vice-free in the air. It even has pretty good ground handling as the u/c geometry has been tweaked a bit.
Regarding cost, last time I looked it was about £150, needing just Rx and battery. Bearing in mind it has flaps and electric retracts, I don't think you would save a huge amount building from scratch. Of course, you get the build satisfaction, I confess that the majority of my enjoyment of the hobby has always been the flying bit, so ARTFs and EP were fantastic for me!
Anyway, here's the Mk24, with the Durafly Mk1 behind it.
|Thread: Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc|
Lovely looking model, envious of the skills to build it! I confine myself to building sports models, and buy the more complex ones as ARTFs I'm afraid. I have the Avios MkV, which is probably quite similar in size at 1450mm. That also weighs 6lb, and I find that the scale 80 degree split flaps help massively with the landing. If this design caters for them, I recommend they are fitted and used.
|Thread: IC or Electric for Ripmax DeHavilland Tiger Moth|
Is it just the photos, or does the lower wing have less span than the upper?
I had the DB one many years ago and it flew very nicely with an OS48 Surpass. The model concerned looks about the same size. I'm all electric now so would suggest a 500W leccy setup. Could be challenging making an accessable battery bay though.
As said above, a gyro won't sort the adverse yaw. Loads of aileron differential together with rudder for turns. I'm afraid I cheat with that type of model and use the CAR function in the Tx!
|Thread: C No Ohmen|
And mine. I velcroed my esc to the underside of the battery tray. In the unlikely event that I have to remove the esc, I'll remove the cowl (held on by film) then prise the velcro apart with something thin, and pull it out from the front.
|Thread: Brian Winch|
Very sad. Like some others, I've been "all electric" for some years, but always found Brian's articles interesting, informative and entertaining. Condolences to his family and friends.
|Thread: August Nationals 2019|
Fab day there yesterday, great flying and weather. Well worth the tenner to get in and the 5 hours in the car. Big thanks to the BMFA organisers once again.
|Thread: Possibly going all electric, which motors should I use?|
Don't understand the carping about flying time. During my 30 years of flying ic I typically flew for 8-10 minutes before it felt it was time to land, and that's the kind of duration I get from my leccy models.
An older club member used to pull my leg about "landing again" as he puttered away for half an hour with his vintage model, but I'm afraid that would send me to sleep.
To pick up on points others have made regarding your original question, I would agree with Pat that 100W/lb is generous for a sport model, and a bit less would be fine. I'd also agree it's good to have a "standard" battery size, although I haven't acheived that with my 2s 1000 - 6s 3000 fleet!
I've got several models intended for i.c. that fly fine with electric. The main advantage with specific ep designs is they allow for battery positioning and access, but I've never had a problem sorting that with my "conversions".
Bit of a learning curve for you, Foxfan. A "must have" is a wattmeter, to check your setup is giving the right amount of power. For your sport models, aim for around 100W/lb of model weight for good performance.
My rough guesses for your models, which I am not too familiar with, are as follows:
Electri-Cub 900-1000kV motor, 10x6 prop, 30A esc, 3s 1300-2200 lipo.
Skyfarer, 900-1000kV motor, 11x7 prop, 40A esc, 3s 2200 lipo
Mascot, 750-800kV motor, 11x7 prop, 50A esc, 4s 2200-3000 lipo
These estimates are purely from my experience, others may provide more scientific data!
Interesting comment on your club, both clubs I am in are now 80-90% electric, but we are in the noise sensitive south-east. Many other advantages of electric, which is why I "converted" about 10 years ago. Fiddling with model engines was never much of the hobby for me, though, I'm more a flyer and sometime builder.
Good luck with the new power trains.
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