Here is a list of all the postings Trevor Crook has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Electric Cars.|
Regarding the access to "refuelling" facilities, when I moved to the small town I live in in 1993, there were 4 petrol stations. Now there are none. It's a minimum 4 mile drive to get fuel. Now I appreciate that you normally fill up when on a journey, but I've noticed the number of filling stations has decreased substantially over the last 20-30 years. I'd love to do most of my refuelling at home, the time taken at public chargers wouldn't bother me as I would only have to use them occasionally - probably less than a dozen times a year with the sort of motoring I do, assuming one of the latest 250 mile plus EVs.
Everyone's motoring habits are different of course. And a new electric Hyundai would have cost double the amount I paid for my 6 month old petrol version. That will slowly change though.
You would have got a 5 year warranty with the Mitsubishi too, Bob. Local servicing does count for a lot though.
|Thread: Se5a on a Summer's Day|
Well flown in adverse conditions! Model details please! Here's my leccy powered Flair one a few summers ago. Haven't flown it so far this year, you've inspired me to take it out next time.
|Thread: Perry carbs.|
Not sure what the tie-up between Veco and HB was. Someone else in my club had an HB25, which looked very similar to my Veco19, except it had mounting flanges on the backplate.
Jonathan, you stirred my memory of removing fiddly circlips and unblocking the idle slot! I started the practice of using a filter in the filler line as well as the tank filter with that engine - good practice anyway.
I had a Veco .19 with a Perry carb many years ago, so my memory is a bit hazy. I seem to remember there was a spring under the main needle. The brass disc adjusts the idle mixture - there should be a radial slot at the top that you put a screwdriver in to rotate it between the extremes marked on the carb body.
My strongest memory is that it was very sensitive to dirt in the fuel blocking the idle jet. When clean and set up correctly the engine ran beautifully.
I'm sure plenty of people with more expertise than me will chip in, or you could email Brian Winch.
|Thread: Electric Cars.|
Ceejay, the other day a Tesla Model X steamed past me at a high (illegal) rate of knots on the motorway towing a large trailer tent, so it can be done. We should remember that automotive innovations that initially appear in high-end cars find their way down the chain fairly rapidly.
We are in the very early stages of alternatively fuelled vehicles, the Leaf only appeared about 10 years ago, and the cars being launched now have 2 or 3 times the range, better performance, etc. The motor industry are investing massively. It will be very interesting to see how things develop over the next few years. My present ic car's warranty runs for another 4 years, and when that expires I'll decide whether it was my last ic powered car. Just hope it's worth something by then!
I read a BBC report the other day which described a forthcoming unmanned space mission to Saturn's large moon, Titan. Since there is an atmosphere, the exploring vehicle will be a rotorcraft - gravity there is less than here, and atmospheric pressure is greater, so ideal for flying. However, since the temperature is around -170C it will be interesting to find out what exotic power source they will use!
|Thread: Prop selection for glow to electric conversion|
Yes, my rule of thumb is, for a 3s setup to use a motor of around 900kV. That normally allows fitment of 10-11 inch props, which will, as said above, be more effecient than smaller ones.
|Thread: hobbyking web site|
I ordered a load of Lipos on Sunday, and found the site had improved. Easier to select the different sizes and capacities, although tha capacity filter wasn't very accurate - I had to broaden the limits beyond the size I wanted to find the sizes I wanted.
The site did seem faster, and I placed the order with no trouble, and everything turned up on Wednesday. Oh, and the voucher code they sent me worked, too. Happy days!
Shame you can't find a Kavan yellow nylon prop - ineffecient but it would be period and wouldn't break!
|Thread: Transmitter / receiver issues, help needed pls|
Daire, you seem to have successfully isolated the fault. To answer your earlier question, no problem if you get a replacement rated at more than 20A except perhaps it may be physically larger. Hard to advise without knowing the complete setup, but I'd suggest looking at units rated at 30A with a 3A Bec. Should give you more headroom. Hobbyking are a useful source.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
You can just see the cooling air exit in front of Dick Dastardly's chest. It's where Peter says, in the front cockpit floor.
|Thread: Transmitter / receiver issues, help needed pls|
The battery you have should be fine. My money would be on the ESC. I had an identical problem occur only last weekend, with an ESC that had previously been fine. I tried two others that I had in my "come in handy" box and they both powered the rx with no problem.
Strangely, monitoring the regulated voltage from the faulty ESC didn't reveal any abnormal drop when the servos were moved. Something more subtle must have been going on that would only be visible on an oscilloscope. Anyway, it's binned now!
Best to buy another ESC. Make sure it'll give at least 20A with a minimum 3A BEC.
|Thread: Anyone for a Tiffie?|
Trevor, the motor in the 6s Spitfire I mentioned is 380kV, and turns a 15x10 3-blader. I think 500kV is a bit high for 5+ cells. The motor is available as a spare from HK, as are the props. The latter come as a blade set and a very strong hub/spnner set, each costing about £6.50.
It's ages since I looked at the plan, but I thought it showed the battery in a vertical box that's on the front of the firewall, with the motor on the front of the box. That's how mine is, with a hatch underneath via the cowl. This gets the battery as far forward as possible. I'll try to post some pics in the next day or so, meanwhile if you look at the shot below, and imagine the lipo in front of the line that seperates the cowl.
You certainly have to watch the weight at the rear. My 90% version flies on a 4s 3000 mounted vertically behind the motor, and a 4-cell NiMh to power the retracts also sits under the cowl. Nonetheless it still needed lead to get the cg forward enough.
Now mine is fitted with a lower kV motor (about 500kV) and turns a prop from a Dynam Hurricane. The old 2-blade setup pulled 600W, this one is just over 700 so it flies with more authority. Obviously the proper sized one will need a 6s setup. I reckon the motor/prop combo from the Avios Mk V Spitfire would work well, I've got one and it's rather overpowered for scale. Haven't measured the power, but I reckon it's at least a kW.
|Thread: Galaxy models mystic - help on electric conversion|
The cockpit move was quite straightforward, but I can't remember all the details and no longer have the model, so I can't give a definitive guide. Obviously the angled top side pieces have to be remade. I used the supplied canopy, so I think I made sure that this would fit the new former at the rear of the cockpit first. If you make that former to fit the back of the canopy moulding, allowing for the thickness of the top side sheet, then make the new side sheets, you should be fine.
The Magician is a really nice-mannered aircraft, and given that bigger normally flies better, your Mystic should be superb. I've attached another picture showing the battery compartment.
Oh and I think the leccy version looks much neater without lumps of metal sticking out of the nose! I moved the Magician's cockpit forward too as I preferred the look
David, your summary is basically correct. I've never electrified a model of that size but estimates of just over 1kW seem about right. I electrified the smaller Magician and that flew nicely on a 3s setup producing about 450W.
The only 6s model I have is an Avios 1450mm Spitfire. This weighs 6lb and uses a 380kV motor to turn a scale 15x10 3-blade prop. Unfortunately I haven't measured the power, but there's lots of it, it takes off on half throttle and I only use full throttle for big loops. I'm estimating it's at least 1kW. Plenty left in the 3000 pack after an 8-minute scale flight.
I think you will be in the right ball park for the prop size you are aiming for with a motor around 500kV. The great thing with leccy power is that, armed with a wattmeter you can try a very wide range of props to get the results that you want. Just make sure the model is securely anchored/held by a helper when measuring!
|Thread: Durafly MK24 V2 Spitfire|
I've got the V1, which has the same u/c. The wire leg is one piece, with a sharp bend to make the axle. I suspect the oem legs use sub-standard wire. I have made new legs using proper 3mm piano wire, obtained from Mantua Models in Windsor.
Take out the u/c units, and remove the wheels and doors. The plastic dummy oleos can be carefully prised off with a knife.
Use the old legs as a template, you can get a sharp bend using a vice and hammer. Remember to file flats near the top of the leg, at the correct angle to the axle axis, for the grub screws. The oleos can be re-fitted with a smear of UHU Por or similar. Hold the wheels on with soldered washers.
Mine have lasted quite well. They supplied coiled units with the 109E, which are much better. I don't know if a pair of those could be fitted, with some mods.
The Mk24 u/c has been changed from exact scale to improve the ground handling, and I've found it quite forgiving. The MkI/V has also been changed, but not so much, and is a lot trickier. It is also a few ounces heavier, which doesn't help for a gentle touchdown.
|Thread: Now that Solartex has gone...|
Indeed, Pete. As I am now leccy only I can get away with using any paint, but I'd like to find a Prymol substitute as I've had good results painting film after using that.
Oratex may be expensive, but it would probably be used on larger more expensive models, so perhaps not such an issue? Probably more important is the colour range available, as many of us use it without painting.
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