Here is a list of all the postings Tom Satinet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Crow Set Up|
i don't think you will ever get great crow brakes for a few of reasons:
1 ) the flaps are top hinged, so they will probably only go down a certain amount. Although that will depend on how the control surface is cut. Bananas have no gap seals as you know (as I recall anyway), so this might be less of an issue.
2) he linkage is likely less optimal for large crow brake travels than you get with bottom hinged/top driven flaps. Because your linkage seems to be on the bottom of the wing, you will have to pull the linkage towards the servo head when you apply crow, which will tend to bind the linkage (horn) on the servo head), unless you have a really long servo arm, which is not ideal.
3) the flaps are physically quite small compared to the ailerons. If you look at model that is designed for landing (e.g f3j model) the flaps are often longer than the ailerons. As you know when you get a banana they only come with ailerons and you have to cut the aileron to get flaps (and cut holes for the servos).
|Thread: Glider Tow|
Just to say - you can definitely launch a plane with the tow hook behind the flying CG. When you apply a very heavy load to the point where the tow hook is, that essentially becomes your new CG. Imagine dangling a 20kg block off the tow hook and then measuring the CG. The weight of the glider would not make much difference - the CG would basically be where the tow hook is. You can trim the model to fly on the launch with the elevator.
That's not to say having tow hook on or behind the CG is the best place to start or even the best place to get a good launch. Every model is different!
I would go with the a few mm in front of the CG
|Thread: newbie to gliding, what to buy and little help with whats what|
If you go down the powered glider route it's worth bearing in mind that a lot of slope sites don't allow powered flight. I would check the situation on the slopes you will be flying at if it's slope soaring you are talking about.
To be honest I would not get any easy glider as they are really slow and very boring. I would imagine even more so if you already fly RC planes.
It's hard to recommend anything as it's down to budget and building skills. The best gliders are all moulded, but they cost the most money.
|Thread: Small model recommendations|
They are very nice Kits Akash. I have got the mk1 zip33. Been lazy and not finished it yet!
the mk2 zip33 folds down even more because the tail is removable. They are not that cheap, but then they are quality.
the weasel evo from the same manufactuer, flies well.
The Multiplex Xeno. Not seen one - heard "mixed" reports as a glider.
Non foam maybe the zip33:
|Thread: Fitting a RX into a Radian Pro - not a lot of space|
I put the RX under where the batteries go.
|Thread: Experiences with a 2m glider,|
That made me chuckle! Can't really argue with honesty can you.
In fairness some of those cheap foam gliders are of a standard to make you want to take up a different hobby altogether.
|Thread: SAS Fusion 46 is dead|
I can't really see understand the instructions being so vehemently against ballast. I have flown the fusion 46 (the orginal) with a bit of ballast and it was absolultely fine. I would not ballast too far beyond say half it's flying weight, but I think it is fine, if done sensibly (i.e not a bit of a lead handing off it).
I didn't really agree with no covering the underside or joing the wing halfs after they were taped either to be honest (nor did I use the supplied copydex-esque glue come to think of it).
Down trimming is not the same as increasing the weight and is a less effiecent way to fly. If it was a simple as down trimming models there would be no such thing as ballast. (ditto for full size gliding). Agreed there are better models for high winds generally speaking.
Ballast isn't the same as weight required on the nose (or tail) to balance a model.
To be honest the key to getting a good wildthing (which will fly well in strong winds) is keeping the drag to a minimum with a clean, straight build. I have seen many zagis/wildies/etc at my local slope with covering having off, improperly balanced, and with trim to mask build errors. Use the wing beds and make sure the CW tape and other covering don't warp the model. They are a heck of a lot easier to fly and setup if built straight and true.
I am not suggesting you cannot build it straight I have just seen that many wonky epp models in my time sloping that I know what the effect is. The wildy/fusion isn't that easy to build dead straight, to be honest, because the spar doesn't extend to the tips and there is no drag spar the on trailiing edge (and the EPP is fairly flexible). That isn't a criticism - the amount of freash epp and correx control surfaces make the model what it is - pretty much indestructible.
I wouldn't worry too much about whether you are getting a fusion or a wildy mark whatever, but it straight, get the covering stuck down and balance it properly and it will fly very well.
I like 3m '77 spray to help CW tape stick to an epp wing.
the fusion 46 has the same wing as the wildthing 46.
Maybe that's why the fusion has been stopped - they are too similar?
|Thread: Tail plane Configurations|
yes the WT is much harder to setup well than a conventional glider. It does however bounce very well.
To be honest I occasionaly see beginners really struggling with wings as they get them thinking they are indestructable, but often they are badly made and badly setup so they are a challenge to fly even for an experiened pilot. I am not saying this is the case in your case Chris, just saying don't be scared of a non wing, it will probably be a lot easier to fly, as Steve says.
+1 on the choice of tail for aerobatis (not vtail!).
I would just ring Stan and tell him what stage you are at and how you want to fly the model. I am sure he will advise you on the correct model from his range to get. He is a knowledgable guy and nice to chat to.
IMHO you want a nice solid conventional model to do aerobatics with.
I agree it is debatable whether vtails offer a performance advantage in certain scenarios, but I don't thinky you can dismiss it entirely. My point about the f3j world championship is that either the X tail or the Vee tail can perform to a world class level (even in thermal soaring where yaw control is important) with the right model and the right pilot. The pros and cons are pretty minor even at the highest level.
I think you ignore the other major disadvantage of the T tail on model gliders whichs is that you either have a complex bell crank to drive the tail, a well bent pushrod or servo in the tail. non of which are really ideal. And you have the issues of the tail interfering with the rudder.
I don't think the top f3b/f3f guys go on fashion, they look for the best performance.
If you are going to start talking about vtails you should talk about the real world things that would matter to an rc modeller - e.g having the rudder and elevator function tied together is worse for aerobatics. Vtails sometimes require "differential" on the rudder to avoid pitch changes, which is harder to setup, especially for the beginner.
The other obvious point about building a vtail from a woody kit is that it requiures more precison to get the correct angle (typically around 100 degrees) than a normal tail (90 degree angle). And sometimes the joiner/reinforcement situaton is more complex. I recommend a normal tail from one of stans kits as I don't think the vtail offers any advantage to what the OP wants the model for.
Interesting, but not really relevant to model flying. I thnk if you say that to the OP you could be misleading him. Vtails have a dead simple control arrangement on models (2 pushrods). There aren't many non computer TXs about. The OP is already flying an elevon models so we can assume that he either has a computer radio or the knowledge to use a vtail mixer.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 10/05/2013 08:04:42
What this complex control system vtails have? You only need two pushrods connected to a horn on each tail surface like you would with a rudder and elevator. in fact I would say vtails are the simplest because you don't run in to problems with the rudder pushrod interfering with the horizontal tail.
They are certainly simpler than all moving tails (and obviously T tails with the servo in the front of the fuse) and the pushrods are kept internal, which doesn't hurt drag.
You will notice virtually competition gliders for f3f and f3b are vtail - i.e where speed counts.
The last f3j world championship (and 3rd place) was a vtail model.
To the op - just go for whatever model you take a fancy too. There are good models of all tail types.
The theoretical aerodymanic pros and cons of each tail type are going to make no difference to you if you are looking to progress from a foamy. And if you are good enough you an go and win the thermal soaring (f3j) world championship with a vee tail or a xtail.
That being said the big advantage of "normal" tails (plus T, and X) over vtails is that the rudder is a separate function which is much better for aerobatics - e.g spins and flicks. If you are talking about a wooden kit such as one of stans designs for general flying I would go for a normal tail as they are usually a bit easier to setup and have a better rudder.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 09/05/2013 21:33:58
Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 09/05/2013 21:35:35
|Thread: slope soaring in Wales|
When it's not raining and when the wind is blowing on the slope
There isn't really a windy season or wet season as such. This link shows you that it is slightly less windy and less rainy in summer, but not by huge margin:
I would also check out the Bwlch:
This series of slopes cover all directions. And are pretty awesome.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 25/04/2013 09:28:34
Edited By Tom Satinet on 25/04/2013 09:31:54
|Thread: Micro servos in a Middle Phase wing.|
I think because the wing is fairly thick you can pretty much drive the ailerons from where you want. Bear in mind the "standard" middle phase has a single aileron servo driving both ailerons from their inner tips, and they fly fine.
I would position the ailerons at something like 40% of the length of the aileron. Back to front positioning is behind the spar on most gliders, but the middle phase doesn't have spar of course, so i would just position them beyond a 3rd back from the leading edge at least (they say this is the most critical area of the aerofoil). Nearer the trailing edge than the leading edge seems sensible (TLAR).
I think building a box for the servos is a good idea - what about ply? Then you can glue the servo in with a small amount of glue and they will come back out again if needs be. .
|Thread: Clear tape|
it's not the same unfortunately.
The new stuff leaves a lot of residue.
it can be. PM me if you are interested.
I think the tape is actually "3 mil" clear tape. If you are refering to the Paul Naton video. Don't forget that they work in imperial - 3 mil is 3 thousandths of an inch.
The tape he uses in the video is hp260 by Duck of duck tape fame.
Zagi packaging tape might do the job, something like sellotape won't.
I have the radian pro, not the radian. I feel the biggest problem with the pro is that the tail is rather bendy and the elevator double centres a lot. I have taken mine appart and have installed better aileron and elevator pushrods and rehinged both surfaces. I think I will put a couple of carbon tows down fuse to stiffen it to. I haven't got round to finishing it because I have bought something else, which is a better model.
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