Here is a list of all the postings Tom Satinet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Clear tape|
is this a radian of some sort?
|Thread: ORME XMAS SLOPE FLY 2012|
Yes looks SW now.
I might swing by for half and hour if the Mrs doesn't mind too much.
The forecast for Rhyl is showing 30mph on sunday............ so about 100 mph up there.
|Thread: Adding ballast|
Yes it helps on windy days, but it is a bit more complicated than that. It is to do with lift to drag ratios and such. Ballast makes a glider flying on the same glide path, if you like, faster than if the same glider was lighter. I.e it can achieve it's best lift to drag ratio at a higher speed. Good glider flying is not about minimum sink rate only, it is about moving from lift to lift and moving out of sink. Ballast helps you move about the sky from one bit of lift to another. one windy days you notice the benefit a lot for obvious reasons.
Search google for ballast in gliders and you will throw up some stuff. E.g. Proper experts can put it in better words than I could.
That's all great and everything, but if you flying an electric glider from the flat field you need to be careful as the power train might not be able to lift the extra weight. Say if you have a 1kg glider that only has a reasonable climb rate, adding about 300g could make the climb rate really bad.
Also yes ballast can make the model easier to fly in bumpy conditions, although it somewhat depends on the location of the ballast and the nature of the model. If it is all around the centre line (i..e fuselage ballast tube), it doesn't always help smooth out the wings too much if they are very light (e.g on a built up glider).
|Thread: Built up glider kit - Recomendations Pls|
I'm assuming you want an electric for thermal soaring. Obviously if you want something fast, then there would plenty of options, but probably not built up wings (foam or moulded wings).
google translate gives the blurb as:
For those who find our last annual performance model Climaxx too large and the equipment with 6 servos and a powerful hacker drive and a 3-cell LiPo battery was too expensive, we have "shrunk" our Climaxx. The result is a handy and extremely manoeuvrable 2m model, which - because of the retention of the S7012-profile and proven carbon fiber tube spar design - has similar strength characteristics and a similar flight dynamics like the real thing. In contrast to the surface of our great Climaxx Climaxx is designed compact in two parts. The low total flying weight of just 750g the climb performance is despite the relatively small and lightweight batteries more than enough to reach in a few seconds on "Thermal search height." All in all, a worthy successor to our "Return 2000".
Heard good thing about this model. Not a t=tail. but I can't think of one.
|Thread: Hammer F3F|
whatever covering you do use, I would plan for some visibility.
Especially on the wing tips and underside - i.e colours.
Is that the lengendary P4000 TX i spy next to the Hammer?
|Thread: The Perennial Question - what glider to buy?|
things like this are worth considering as an middle ground between foam (yuk) and fully moulded (hurray!).
Edited By Tom Satinet on 16/10/2012 15:47:46
I would question how well some of those scaley models will fly in windy conditions. E.g on one of your links it says the model is 2.5m and weighs 1200g - this is a very light model for a slope soarer. Things like the ka-7, baby etc are not exactly low drag (side of a house springs to mind). High drag + low weight = poor in wind.
I'm not sure small scale gliders have the best reputation for flying qualities either, although I guess that is generalising.
If you can thermal at the flat field and power fly, you will be able to fly slope fine. There isn't a great mystery to it. Flat field gliding is harder than slope soaring in a lot of ways, although with sloping you do have to take account of the wind a bit more in strong conditions. Although a good glider should be good at flying through wind, and if you can fly a power model in Okie you should be okay!
If you are wedded to scale I would go larger/heavier. Just my opinion of course.
Otherwise something like this would be a nice model, if you landing zones are reasonable:
Ballasting is important in slope soaring. So if you get something like a luna, bear that in mind.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 16/10/2012 15:41:58
Edited By Tom Satinet on 16/10/2012 15:42:34
|Thread: windrider bat|
Colin try looking on rcgroups. The model was more popular in the states.
From what I remember a lot of them were modified to remove the natural "up" ness at the trailing edge, which allowed the plane to fly with a more reward CG. And they were strengthened in other ways. Iirc there was a guy who sold them modified in the states.
As I say have root rounds on RCG, there should be a few threads.
|Thread: Radian Pro - your thoughts?|
I've had some good flights with it. I've "specked it out" before in a strong thermal. To me the problem with the radian is that it seems way out of trim each time I fly it. I think it must be the flexible nature of the foam or whatever, but it is flying great one day then the next it's all over the place. I think it indicates lift okay if you can get it flying level.
I haven't flown it for a while, for that that reason. I think what I will do is take it back to the workshop and lay on some carbon tows down the fuselage and do a few other tweaks to stiffen it up. i've had other models on the bench so haven't had time to fettle it.
I think Ed (above) describes it eloquently as "adqueate". That's all I need - a practice model. In fact I don't want it to be too good. I think if you can get it flying well it's a good learning tool. The fact is thermal soaring can be quite difficult.
Interesting vid here:
Edited By Tom Satinet on 24/09/2012 10:31:01
|Thread: The Price of Performance|
Well I said it is boring as a slope soarer. Which I stand by to be honest. I also have a radian pro electric which I sometimes fly from the flat field. I would put the two models in a similar categeory. You are right there is a lot of pleasure to be had from a good thermal flight and electric is really convient.
Either model as a sloper is pretty dull. Mind you the blaster is not a sloper either. With the blaster you are paying for it to be able to take a competition level discus launch which the EG is never going to be subjected to. The EG is a complete waste of money for a DLG comp and the blaster probably won't excell at e-soaring...
As a light air sloper the EG is okay, but like Peter says the roll rate is so bad it isn't that much fun, compared to other models. I'd rather have the alula for less money.
Where the EG and Radian suffer in thermal soaring is that they both have a poor L/D drag ratio when you want to move about the sky, which is necessary in some conditions. Obviously there is where the moulded stuff excells. Both the radian (pro in my case) and EG have good handling and go up okay in lift though (what doesn't though!).
chalk and cheese, apples and oranges, and all that.
what strikes me about that price comparision is how much cheaper the blaster is relative to the amount of time/effort/materials that has gone to making both models:
easy glider - injection moulded EPP - mass produced RC parts shuch as electric motor.
blaster - hand laid cloth and all the other things associated with the moulding process (which is lots).
I guess it depends on how you measure performance. The EG is an okay model for what it is. I wouldn't pay 200 quid to have one as a sloper though as I think it is really quite a boring model. I don't think it is well suited to general slope soaring for the reasons mentioned above. (i've got a non electric one by the way)
You could argue that if the objective of the exercise is "soaring" in inverted commas, as it were, then flat field soaring is the way to go. If it is about the challenge of keeping the model in the air. Per the comment above, things like the EG and the radian can do well in flat field soaring.
|Thread: First Mouldie??|
It hasn't been that well received on rcgroups.
If you want a step up from epp wings without spending big money why not look at these models:
They are both good models Phil. I would not be afraid to buy new.
|Thread: RCRCM Typhoon Build|
Most moulded gliders don't have the inner nose cut out for the servos. Some do, but generally I think it's better that they don't because everyone wants to use different radio gear. Here is the nose from a friends F3b model that I installed the gear in for him (very expensive model):
The inner nosecone is a problem on the Typhoon, as Peter says. Once you make your cut outs for your gear I would make plate with say 1/32nd ply with the same cut outs and glue it on top. In fact I would do it before the cut outs and just cut through both. Really you want to cut through were the pushrods come from and glue a tongue on the the ballast tube and fuselage sides.
What happens is the inner nose departs comany from the fuselage in a hard bang. There is not enough material there.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 18/07/2012 09:21:15
Edited By Tom Satinet on 18/07/2012 09:22:21
|Thread: Digital Servos|
in my experience there isn't a world of difference between the 5065mg and the 65mg. I certainly wouldn't put money in to changing from the analogue to the digital when the 65mg is already a good servo.
If you see this the stall current of the analogye is still going to take you over 3amps
But as Chris says, stall figures are not really relevant to flying current. Changing to a 5amp unit might make sense to be on the safe side - you have to go with what you feel is safe.
As I say though, without being a miserable g1t, I don't know if the model will fly appreciably better.
It's all about fun though!
Edited By Tom Satinet on 09/07/2012 10:49:04
Digital servos don't require loads of power per se. I don't know how that statement can be made with no knowledge of the installation in the model. Linkages, control surface size etc, are going to make the difference to how hard to the servos are going to have to work.
I've got no problems using 6 digital micro servos even on AA sized batteries in gliders. But then each servos is different and each installation is different.
I doubt 5065s will be significantly different to 65mgs. I would question how much difference to the performance of the model a change from 65mgs to 5065mgs is going to make though.
|Thread: Full wing ailerons on a sunbird 60|
er "all measurement takes from outboard edge of control surface". E.g measured from the tip of the aileron and the tip of the flap.
There was this confusion on rcgroups and Mr Hammond came on to confirm this is the case in his settings.
You're not really flying it with more flap than aileron????
anyway.... conventional wisdom is to have about 1/3rd as much flap as aileron. Search for Dr Drela thoughts on the subject. If you take the sunbird settings from the manual measure the aileron throw from its tip (i.e near the wing tip) and the flap from where it meets the aileron (middle of the wing).
Notice that model with aileron and not flaps have the ailerons near the wing tips.........
Edited By Tom Satinet on 23/06/2012 18:05:13
Edited By Tom Satinet on 23/06/2012 18:05:50
Edited By Tom Satinet on 23/06/2012 18:22:19
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!