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Member postings for Tom Satinet

Here is a list of all the postings Tom Satinet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: SAS Wildthing 46 battery
08/06/2012 14:53:47

Thinking about it....

another thing I see with these planes is that people struggle to trim them out. They make CG adjustments then don't think that maybe the model needs retrimming. Obviously it is the same for any model, but planks wings are a bit more "pitchy" then models with a long tail. CG changes are usually immediatly noticeable to the pitch of the model. If you take off or add nose weight, don't forget it will alter the pitch trim of the model quite noticable. Don't forget to re-trim.

The model should fly around without needing flying all the time, on both axes. As I say if you have a lot of left or right trim you don't have a straight one (make sure it is ballanced across the wing as well as the CG).

As you take the cg back you will probably want to reduce the elevator throw. Again the same as any model, but more noticeable on this kind of plane. More reward CG = more pitch sensitive = less elevator throw.

08/06/2012 14:06:56

you don't need a 6v pack in the model. Just use a 4.8v instant type AA pack. It will fit the easiest and give you huge amounts of flight time. There isn't the need for much nose weight on the model. In fact if you use another type of battery you WILL probably need nose weight because it won't fill the cavity as far forward as a AA square pack.

You won't get significant voltage drops running 2 x standard servos.  You will be able to fly all day without recharging.  Spektrum brownouts are not going happen unless you fly for about 3 days continuously.

To be honest I don't really agree with the instructions that come with the model. As Peter says, I think it is better to join the wings then tape it. Seeing as the tape is supposed to act to prevent the epp from bending it seem a bit strange to create a weak point at the point where there is the most strain.

As most people have discovered with the wildthing and fusion there is no reason not to ballast them to a sensible level.

What you want to get strong is the join of the fuselage to the wing as they often come off. You need to make sure it is strong at the intersection of the leading edge and fuselage. I used sign tape (double sided) on mine and it never came off. Plenty of Xweave is required if you don't have something like that.

I also think the model would benefit from having the spar go out to near the wing tips rather than being a 1m length which leaves about 4 inches of unsparred wing tip at each end. Whether it is worth buying another carbon rod remains to be seens. I seem to remember the instructions being a bit strange with regards to the installation of the spar as well (?).

I glued everything on mine together with "goop" rather than the tipex stuff you get with it!

Make sure the control horns on the servos are not too long and that you use a long hole on the horns of the elevons. You don't need 45 degrees of throw each way. The worse you make this gear ratio the more like you are to strip the gears on the servos.

use the wing beds to build the model in. KEEP IT STRAIGHT!.  Nearly all the wildies that I see at my slope are built majorly on the p*ss. If you need a lot of left or right trim this is a sign that it is wonky and/or badly out of lateral balance. 

People have a strange attitude to wildies in that they think they are not the sleekest model on the slope so they don't think it is important to make the thing smooth and build it well, but really it is very important if you want it to fly well.  When I see bits of tape handing off them and the covering coming up I dont really understand how people expect them to fly well. Well built they fly well and can go in a wide range of conditions.

Also I don't see any reason not to use coloured tape on the bottom of the wing (contrary to the instructions), this just makes it easier to orientate the model. Compared to a multiplex easy glider, which has the roll rate of jupiter, the fusion rolls like a top. Use the throws in the instructions to start with.

Another thing I see people doing with wildies/fusions is not using any exponential and then flying it round like the TX gimabls are designed like the edges of a 50p piece.  Expo works well. 

Edited By Tom Satinet on 08/06/2012 14:16:50

Edited By Tom Satinet on 08/06/2012 14:17:58

Thread: Help with wing servo choice (please) for a Typhoon
10/05/2012 10:34:14

you want to glue in the whole front of the keel as they are built of tissue paper!

09/05/2012 09:06:48

olerc are saying on RCG that RCRCM models will come without the horns installed now. Less is more! I guess it saves taking them out but I can't help feeling some people would find it a difficult job. It isn't one of my favourite modelling tasks to get the left/right flap horns exactly the same, tbh.

08/05/2012 18:23:26

you can get humped covers from phoexni model products, thinking about it.

Mine came with flat covers but I used 0255mgs on the flaps (loads of slop and not that accurate IMHO).

Edited By Tom Satinet on 08/05/2012 18:24:38

Thread: SAS Fusion 60 vs Weasel
08/05/2012 14:02:41

that looks okay then! you have me worried for a second... surprise

maybe the hill is just tom tit?

08/05/2012 12:19:48

big surface throws don't make the model go up more. In fact large surface deflections just increase drag and slow the model down.


I adjusted reflex from as per the instructions to maximum adjustment on the trim which was plus another 10 degrees or so

I think we may be on to a source of at least one problem here. It should like you model is way too nose heavy if you are flying with 10 degrees of "UP". Crickey that is a lot of up! The fusion isn't a model that flies with a virtually flat elevon profile, like say an M60, but it should not neeed that kind of "upness" in it.

When setting up these plank/wing type models the relationship between CG and the amount of reflex is really key. Well every model needs to be ballanced right of course, but on normal models you have a fairly obvious neutral point to work from (unless it has an all moving tail - and even then you can measure the angle).  With planks/wings they usually don't have the inherent stability of a tailed plane, although the SAS stuff is what you might call fairly mildly tuned (again in comparision to say an  m60/hp60/gulp sr etc etc.). Without wanting to state the obvious if you have a lot of up elevator it is like the otherside of a see-saw trying to counteract the nose weight. 

I often see these kind of models flown at my local hill and often get volunteered to fly them - mostly I find the CGs are way too far forward and the throws are way too large (or sometimes way too small). If you have 10 degrees of up elevon beyond setting a straight line with the bottom of the aerofoil you either have a very nose heavy plane or you are flying way way too slowly, although I would think the model would just loop back over your head in 20mph wind.

What does it do in a dive test?

Maybe if you put a photo of your elevon position relative to the fin/aerofoil it might be of use. 10 degrees sounds awry.

Edited By Tom Satinet on 08/05/2012 12:22:12

Edited By Tom Satinet on 08/05/2012 12:23:42

08/05/2012 09:40:36

either the hill doesn't produce meaningful lift, or as stated above, there is a major problem with the model.

I don't think the weasel will go up that more tbh.

Thread: Help with wing servo choice (please) for a Typhoon
07/05/2012 10:36:52
The 255 really needs bearings as well. They suffer from excessive head rock like the previously hyped hyperion.

It depends if you have flat servo covers or ones with a hump fir thicker servos (mine has those).

If you want a really good install on the typhoon you are better off removing the control horns in the wing and doing it better. I really need to get round to doing mine sometime. Although I already replaced one flap horn as the flap travels were so different.
07/05/2012 08:34:15

I would go for MKS 6100 if I was building my typhoon again. Really good little servo. Nice and thin which you need.

In fact I would probably go for 6100 on the elevator and rudder too. Good precison, good power.

MG = metal gears in servo parlance.

hyperion are better than the hitec and the mks are better than the hyperion IMHO.

The ultimate choice would probably be mks 6125minis, but they are quite expensive. the 6100 is £23.99 each compared to over £30 for the hyperion and whatever 125mgs cost.

Thread: SAS Fusion 60 Servos
01/05/2012 12:44:57
The servo horn should be shorter than the elevon horn (taking in to account the thickness if the elevon itself).

Bearing in mind most servos can rotate 120 degrees you can gear it down a fair bit. You should not be stripping gears all the time on a wt. You certainly don't need 120 plus degrees of elevon travel.

If you are having to use your radio to significantly reduce the aileron travel then it is not set up right (elevator will be less).
30/04/2012 09:29:05

Are you using a short horn on the servo and a long horn on the elevons? If you are using a longer horns on the servo than on the elevon it will increase the chances of the gears stripping. It's just simple leverage.

Thread: Soaring on the Great Orme
12/03/2012 09:07:05

greaaaaat. so now they will be out in strong winds too......

Thread: Multiplex Fiesta
18/02/2012 08:42:53

What (large) thermal models are made in china?


not many.

Edited By Tom Satinet on 18/02/2012 08:43:28

Thread: Banana CofG querie
13/02/2012 15:35:06
80mm is a nominal figure.
It really depends on the planform of the wing. 80mm wouldn't be far back on a 60 chevron.
The nana has a slight sweep back on the planform if anything.
I would look at the huge thread on rcg and see what CG people are running. I once had a nana kit and never got round to building. I don't remember the CG being behind 80mm though on that thread.
Dare I say double check the CG by remeasuring it.
What does it actually fly like? dive test or whatever, you can usually tell very quickly if a model is badly nose heavy.
13/02/2012 09:11:47
I think Andy has a good point. I seem to remember 80mm is fairly far back anyway for that model.
the old dive test.....
Thread: Radian Pro - your thoughts?
01/02/2012 19:30:44
You're right I think. I wasn't attacking the Radian though, if that's what you thought.
I bought it as a low cost model to practice thermal soaring with. I agree that it probably isn't a brilliant sailplane per se, but it flies fine, I think.
As you say you have to accept the limitation of the performance in the context of the price. It's certainly not an expensive model. I am pretty happy with it for a first flight. It does what I wanted and flies pretty much as expected.
Thread: Speedo
01/02/2012 15:21:04
Looks cool anyway Rob. So it's a foam core with fibreglass on the outside.
Not sure why you need two elevator servos on a 1.5m model though. Maybe a huge 6m+ scale thing, but not a normal model.
Thread: Radian Pro - your thoughts?
01/02/2012 14:23:17
CG at 74mm btw. Needed a small bit of lead on the tail to get the balance.
Seems to want to fly one way, but I forgot to check the lateral balance, so that's probably it.
Seems okay for the price - obviously a bit flexible, but seems to handle fairly well.
01/02/2012 13:47:08
Just flown the mighty radian for a few minutes.
Bit of a wallowy, wobbly old hector but once I had it trimmed out a bit it seemed to fly okay. Certainly not one I would want to put a 500ft dive. Actually loops okay if you are not going too fast. Roll rate pretty none existent, but haven't done anything with the throws.
I am using the stock prop at the moment with a 1300mah 3s lipo. Climb rate not exactly brilliant but enough to do a bit of thermal hunting.
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