Here is a list of all the postings Tom Satinet has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
C93 is just the weight of the cloth (93g/sqm).
In terms of typhoon vs vector 3, I would get a typhoon if I were doing a lot of my flying at somewhere like Burton Dassett.
The V3 does seem to fly very well though.
I would get the typhoon. I think it will meet your requirements and won't be too hard to get hold of. Pretty easy to build as well.
I would put the bigger 2.5m stuff in another price bracket (e.g Tomcat, alex XXL, skorpion needle 100, big bird etc) . Although the mach 2 is 2.4.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 20/09/2011 09:12:00
yeah it's probably old ground but I can't remember the previous threads...
I did have ballast but I shared it with another model which I since sold including the ballast, so now I need to make some more or buy the ballast kit. To be honest I felt it was a model that didn't want to be over ballasted, but I haven't flown it in enough conditions to get a real feel for it. But as I say it does what I want of it.
Not sure what CG I am on - pulled a fair bit of lead out of the nose - I would guess in the low 90s somewhere. Yeah it is pretty agile - the roll rate is good even for the size.
What CG are you on now btw Peter?
Last time I had a session with it I was playing with the CG but it was extremely lumpy bumpy, so it was hard to really get a feel for it.
|I was up the great orme a few weeks ago, I just didn't have any ballast with me!|
|I'm happy with my typhoon. I think for a smaller slopes it's a really good model. A nice compromise between agility and "soarability". I'm sure it's good in big air too, but most of my slope flying is done on a small bump.|
|it's a good model|
|just get one|
|Thread: Second glider the next step?|
You and everyone else Graham! You have exactly described the challenges of landing in the two extremes.
I would say go for a 4 servo wing (flaps.) it is a lot easier to land. Although you can actually end up short even more if you get over enthusiastic.
Although as others have said the moulded stuff usually has a lot more penetration so you can make it from a lot farther back.
I think the other guys are right.
In terms of moulded models, as they are essentially built by the factory there isn't really a factor in terms of the way the model has been built by the builder (the airframe anyway), unlike a wooden kit. The only real factor in that regard is how well the radio gear has been installed - usually they are pretty tight and often tricky installs. I guess you can get some badly made in the factory, but it's more rare than a badly made kit certainly.
It's usually fairly easy to spot damaged on a mouldy, because if they don't have any they are usually pretty much "perfect" - like a new car but more so I guess.
That being said there is nothing wrong with repairing mouldies - I reckon most of them will have a bit of damage at some point in their lives. We don't just chuck them out if they get a ding. Look for areas that have been repainted - even the best jobs will over paint the seams.
a ballast tube is pretty essential i would suggest.
I wouldn't particularly get fixated on a luna - sounds like you can fly already - moulded models are usually very easy to fly - more so the bigger they get really.
place to look:
forms - rcmf, barcs, flyquiet, here
mailing lists - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/F3F/
& bmfa classifieds of course
Edited By Tom Satinet on 16/09/2011 13:14:40
Edited By Tom Satinet on 16/09/2011 13:16:12
|Thread: just a litlle bit lost!|
I have had a multiplex evo - to be honest the programming on the aurora sounds more powerful.
the hitec aurora 9 is fine for f3f models btw.
As John says the receiver itself should draw hardly any current.
IIRC it is something like 30 to 50 mah for a typical receiver.
by the way you could use a lipo with a regulator to power the model - i don't see a problem with that. Personally I have always stuck to nickel (or LiFe recently). What you don't want, IMHO, is two batteries.
As I said I in my f3f models I just use a 4 cell Nimh to power both the servos and the receiver.
No need to use 2 batteries or all that complicated stuff.
If your 2500 can't power all 6 servos there is something wrong with it.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 14/09/2011 21:53:38
I would say that a 4 cell nickel battery is the most common type you will find used on a glider like a Pike Brio (in the UK anyway).
On all my 3m models that I've owned (e.g tragi, ascot, extreme, freestyler etc) I have used either AA Nimh or 2/3a Nimh - depending on what will fit in each model. I have flown the model in both slope/f3f and some of them in f3b(winch) with no problems.
It just sounds like your battery is faulty or there is a potential fault in the wiring somehow(?).
A 4.8v nickel battery does not require a regulator as stated above (neither does a 5 cell/6v one).
Capacity is not the same as being able to deliver high current. e.g a 2500nimh "AA" only has a max discharge of about 7amps. Where as a 1500 "2/3a" battery might have a max discharge of 15amps. While the 1500 might not last as long it would actually work better if there was a heavy current draw. That being said I have never had problems with AA batteries either.
The other alternative is LiFePo4 batteries, which may or may not need a regulator - that's a whole other thread!
I think that either your 2500 nickel is faulty or the Lipo is masking a fault in the wiring (or servos etc) with it's superior abiliity to delivery current (although maybe not as the regulator would blow out (possibly?)). That seems the logic to my mind anyway.
|Thread: 15mph wind on a good slope|
|was it cold?|
|Thread: Sloping Off|
I thought the bee had carbon ribbon spars.
As for the instructions on sas models - they are okay but I think there are points where basically everyone ignores them in particular the "ban" on ballast which is basically nonsense!
on the fusion I had I could not work out the spar stopped so far short of the wing tips unless it was purely to save money by supplying it in 1m lengths.
Edited By Tom Satinet on 13/08/2011 21:00:15
Edited By Tom Satinet on 13/08/2011 21:01:54
yes, and I thought that was what the instructions said.
The middle of the wing is obviously the part under the most stress.
sorry to disagree, but the reason the JP si has structural strength is that the rear part of the model is not EPP, it is a more rigid, but less deformable foam (EPO?). That's why you have to glue the EPP bit on the front to give it some degree of survivability, although in reality the model doesn't have the toughness of a full EPP model like the Wildthing or Bee. I guess it is easy to build and cheap though.
Full epp models like the bee, wildthing, m60 etc etc, require strengthening spars. TBH there is a reason that nearly all the rest of the foam slope models are all epp - that's because it's better!
If you built an epp model with no spars it would be like a dead fish!
|something to watch out for with the model is that the pocket for the RX tends to cave in with repeated nose strikes.|
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!