Here is a list of all the postings Robin Colbourne has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 2 vintage engines, what makes please?|
The bottom one looks very similar to the 1938 Cleveland .488cid 'Tom Thumb' made by Bunch. Scroll down to the eighth picture here: 1930s Model Aircraft Petrol Engines
I'll see what I can find for the other one!
|Thread: Insanity seems to be setting in|
They'll be making them with bomb doors soon! :-D
|Thread: 1/4 turn wing fixings|
Demon Tweeks who do stuff for motor racing do Camloc parts at reasonable prices. Camlocs
These U clips, with a bit of Dremelling to allow the prongs through, might work as the retainer:
Otherwise bolt a U clip each side of the wing bolt hole and modify the bent up edge of the clip to form a ramp either side of a dip for the prongs of the wing bolt to rest in.
The ST Models MX2 uses a pair of 1/4 turn fasteners to retain the wing. They sell for about £3.50 a pair, so not cheap, but possibly cheaper than buying other types if you have to get more than you need. They are also quite long.
|Thread: Ripmax DARE-U FunFly|
Hi Daniel, If you put the captive nuts in F1 you should be able to try each of the engines, if you get an identical mount for each. Out of your engines, I would probably have gone for either the Irvine 36 or the Super Tigre 34, however either of the FPs should do fine.
Daniel, I think you must be telepathic, as I very nearly suggested in my original piece that you use mini servos. My original had them on the ailerons, and I'm quite sure those Tower MG-90S servos would be ok on all the surfaces.
As both Balsa Cabin and SLEC sell 48" balsa in all the sizes you need for the spars, D-box and trailing edge, why not build the wing in one piece, and do without the dihedral brace/wing joiner? I'm sure the original was two piece only to get the kit in a smaller box. You could thicken the spar web in the middle three bays to say 3/32".
Edited By Robin Colbourne on 06/03/2020 22:24:33
I had a Dare U with which I did a lot of flying. It eventually died when I tried to mix flaps and elevator; it all went pear-shaped and dived straight in. I have another one which was built by a friend, who copied mine, and was then given to me when he gave up flying. Unfortunately I'm not living where that one is at the moment, so I won't be able to measure it up for a while.
As a rough guide on wood sizes, I would say:
Fuselage sides & formers: light 1/8" or 3/32" if you want it light.
Spars" 3/8" x 3/16"
Ribs and inner spar webs: 3/32", or 1/16" if you want it light
Leading & trailing edge sheeting and cap strips: 1/16"
All control surfaces: 1/4" square
Fin & Tailplane, Soft 1/4" sheet
F1 Front Former & Undercarrage mount: 2 laminations of 1/8" Ply (you could probably go thinner, say 3/16" total )
If you are making the wing removable, some 1/8" fuselage doublers from the nose tapering away to nothing about 3" behind the wing would help.
Don't forget to put 3mm captive nuts in for the engine mount and undercarriage. This will save you a lot of heartache later.
Edited By Robin Colbourne on 06/03/2020 16:05:18
|Thread: Your experience of Banggood delivery time?|
The impression I get is that the sellers either aren't aware of the Royal Mail's ban on delivering Lipos, or just take a chance on some getting through and refund on the rest. The Royal Mail must have one enormous pile of seized Lipos somewhere!.
A friend was telling me how several of the people with whom he works get their orders from BangGood and Aliexpress sent to their office, as they aren't home when the postman arrives. Given the long delivery times, most have usually forgotten what they ordered, so its a bit like 'Secret Santa' when they open their parcels!
|Thread: Where can i buy 2mm pushrods 750mm long|
Christopher, I haven't tried carbon pushrods myself, I've always used snakes, or, in the old days, 1/4" square balsa pushrods (which I wouldn't recommend). On throttle linkages, I've used bicycle bowden cable inner with soldered-on snake ends, in tube similar to those in your picture
If you drill a hole in a piece of wood the size of the threaded end of the snake end, then put it in a vice with the open end pointing up, you can stand the carbon rod in it vertically. The epoxy will then form a nice fillet and not run down the rod. When you do the inner one on the model, slide the rod in from the tail and have the model pointing nose down to do the same. You can have the snake end attached to a clevis and the servo arm on the servo, so that end is fixed. The weight of the carbon rod should hold it in place, or you can rig up a rubber band at the other end pushing it in.
Edited By Robin Colbourne on 04/03/2020 10:57:08
|Thread: Merco Engines|
Here is Mike Billington's Engine Test of the Como 51 in control line stunt form, courtesy of Sceptreflight: Como 51 Engine Test
|Thread: I have Got This Far Should I Just Fly it|
With regard to propeller rotation for a twin, both the P-38 Lightning and F-82 Twin Mustang reversed the direction of rotation between the prototype and production aircraft. In the case of the F-82, the airflow over the centre section was so bad that the middle part of the wing between the two fuselages was stalled and the prototype could not leave the ground!
|Thread: all good things eventually come to an end !|
Stuphedd, I can appresiate the pain you're feeling. At RAE (Royal Aircraft Establishment) Farnborough we had much the same, with the use of taxiways as runways and large grass areas for thermal soarers, There was enough space that the gliding club and aero club could use the appropriate into wind runway without us getting in each other's way. The bi-annual airshow did put a damper on things for a few weeks, but we could live with that. The change from an MOD airfield to a business jet airport was the death knell for the club. Weekend operations were the beginning of the end. Nowadays a row of hangars stands on our usual site.
Edited By Robin Colbourne on 24/02/2020 21:25:42
|Thread: Is this weather ever going to get better!!!!!!!!!!!!!|
Romeo Whisky, I love the DUKW. If I ever won the lottery, which, given that I don't buy the tickets, is rather unlikely, a DUKW is what I would buy! I blame Airfix for this particular obsession.
|Thread: Centrifugal clutch pads - from where ?|
You could try Bonz-MX, formerly 'The Ped Shed' They sell spares for Chinese quad bikes, engine driven scooters and mini motos. The most recent phone number I can see for them is 01252 378398 They are in Mytchett, Surrey GU16 6DJ
Otherwise, what about theses 52mm clutch shoes? 52mm Clutch Shoes
Edited By Robin Colbourne on 06/02/2020 19:36:52
|Thread: Thin Ply|
Nigel, In the design you are building, What is the thin ply used for?
If thin ply is the only thing that will work, and you only need tiny bits, can you get some scraps from a fellow modeller or just buy the ply and keep the rest 'in stock' for your next build?
There is a usually more than one way to skin a cat!
|Thread: Balance point help, advice needed for a Flea!|
According to this Flying Flea Design Notes
Henri Mignet started with the CofG at 41% of the front wing chord, and eventually moved it to 50%, so it may well be that if you are applying conventional aeroplane C of G rules, you've got it too far forward.
|Thread: OS FSR engines|
'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'!
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!