Here is a list of all the postings Frank Skilbeck has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ailerons extending to wingtip|
It was quite common in WW1 planes but as aerodynamics became more understood then ailerons weren't extended to the wings tips. I suspect part of the reason is that designers take great care to avoid/reduce the vortex that comes off the wing tip, caused by higher pressure from underneath the wing "leaking" round the wing tip. This causes drag so anything that reduces this will increase the speed of the aircraft.
If you look at slow flying aerobatic models then it's quite common to extend the ailerons to the wing tip, but drag isn't an issue for these models as they aren't chasing speed.
|Thread: Take off problems|
A clubmate built a Zero with a 35cc petrol engine and had a very experienced large model flier do the maiden flight, he noted that he had to hold in right rudder quite a while after take off. Once it had climbed and leveled off it flew lovely and was quite a pussycat to land, but needed right rudder applied during and the takeoff and climb out.
|Thread: A newbie trying to save some money|
Er even on cars and motorbikes in countries that drive on the right use their right foot/hand to operate the throttle.
From what I understand is that mode 1 is a natural follow on from reed radios where the controls were all operated by switches then 2 channel proportional radios which had separate sticks. Since then it all depended on who taught you to fly.
|Thread: Buying cheap new or (slightly) cheaper s/h?|
Yep you should be able to bind multiple Rxs to your Dx5e.
The advantage of the Dx7 will be that the receiver will be bound to that memory so if you select the wrong model it won't work. Also each memory will store all your servo and trim settings, so when you switch models all control surfaces will move in the correct direction and you won't have to re-trim the model.
|Thread: Setting Flaps on 8fg & what does offset do?|
"Offset" offsets the control center position, so if you have a flap surface that can move up and down (i.e when mixed with ailerons) you can use the full travel to say give 20 deg up and 80 deg down, with the "normal" centre at 30 deg down and then use the offset to move the control surface mid point to 0 deg, useful on gliders.
If all you are doing is setting flaps up on a power model where they only move down and aren't mixed with ailerons etc then you can ignore this.
|Thread: A newbie trying to save some money|
Nothing wrong by trying to do a bit of future proofing, but the best money saving advice I can give is to join a club where you will get help and instruction. The best way to learn is the buddy box method and if none of the instructors can buddy to your chosen radio then you'll either get no flying or destroy aircraft trying to do it solo.
|Thread: Futaba 10j Motor Cut|
It offsets the center position of the servo, if you didn't have it when you switched the mix in then the throttle would go to half, now if goes to the offset position. It's usually used on flaps on gliders where you have a lot of down flap in butterfly and a small amount of up flap, coupled with the ailerons or reflex for more speed. It allows you to fully utiliise the servo travel, so if you have flaps that go 80 deg down and 10 degree up, you can set the center of the servo position to 35 deg (then 45 degree up and down from the center) and use offset to offset the servo/flap by 35 deg so it then moves 10 deg up and 80 deg down.
Unless it's my Astro Hog which has a single aileron servo driving out board ailerons via bellcranks, very old school.
|Thread: IC or Electric for Ripmax DeHavilland Tiger Moth|
There's an electric one flying here looks like it flies very nice.
Rudder gyro might not be the correct solution, but lots of aileron differential would help (similar to the full size) and initiating turns with the rudder. All part of the appeal of flying a scale model.
|Thread: Well this could get interesting|
Well if Gatwick is anything to go by, why bother actually flying a drone, just get several of your members to phone up and say they have spotted a drone within the FRZ, job done. If you want to get a couple of pilots in the act too, a couple of helium balloons should do the job.
I wonder if there are going to be laws against drone reporting hoaxs brought in anytime soon.....................
|Thread: Led light controller from dyna|
Reading the description on CMLs website suggests they can be switched between constant and flashing.
|Thread: BMFA number|
As a club secretary I know some of our members don't log onto the BMFA membership page, so I send them their membership card/insurance cert by e-mail, so they can print a new one off every time they lose it
|Thread: Laser Appreciation Society|
Leading or trailing edge, if it's the former then the lead will need to go on the tail.
|Thread: Brian Winch|
Sad news indeed, Brian seemed to have been around for all my modelling life and I can't think of anything he's written that I didn't enjoy.
|Thread: Needle valve settings, generally...|
Having just watched our club diesel expert flick starting a PAW 149, then too much or too little fuel and you'll flick away to no avail, best to see if you can find somebody with the diesel technique.
|Thread: Wot 4 xl so it's a OS 91 surpass or DLE 20 petrol......Thoughts and advice needed|
I've just removed a DLA 32cc from a Seagull Maxilift and put in a Laser 150, the DLA 32 started and ran well, but was very noisy and destroyed two silencers (well more like exhaust gas deflectors) the standard one and a pitts style one.
If you go the petrol route don't forget to budget for a decent silencer especially if your site is noise sensitive.
Petrol is more economical that glow fuel, but don't forget to budget for the new fuel pump and make sure that you have a good fuel can otherwise your car will stink on regular pump petrol.
|Thread: Old Fuel|
Just a brief update, I've run a couple of engines using this old straight fuel, one a Laser 150 on a 50/50 mix of new 10% and the old fuel to give 5%, engine ran fine. and an OS 55AX on this fuel with a dash of petrol, again the engine ran just fine.
Re the dash of petrol, this was because I read somewhere that a dash of petrol could help with starting (there was an article in RCME about this a while back but I can't remember which issue).
Both engines flick started quite easily (using a stick to look after my pinkies!).
|Thread: Electric Cars.|
Here you go **LINK**
|Thread: solartex alternative|
I've just started using Diacov 1000 (the same stuff they use on microlights etc), but there isn't a UK supplier so I got mine from here **LINK**
Goes on better than Solartex, but it only comes in natural so you'd have to paint it.
|Thread: Prop size and efficiency|
Ecalc is a fairly good comparison tool, here's some selections I ran for looking at prop motor combinations for a scale model
Prop 16x8, battery 5000 mah 6s
Thrust – 5.7 kg
Power – 1300 w
Amps – 68 A
Rpm – 8,100
5060-380 Kv motor
Prop 15 x 10, battery 5000 mah 6s
Thrust – 4.8kg
Power – 950w
Amps – 45 A
RPM – 7,280
Put a 16 x 10 prop and
Thrust – 5.5kg
Power – 1130w
Amps – 55A
Rpm – 7100
Prop 16 x 10, battery 5000 mah 6s
Thrust – 6.2 kg
Power – 1300 w
Amps – 68 A
Rpm – 7,500
With a 16 x 8 prop
Thrust – 5.3 kg
Power – 1200 w
Amps – 58 A
Rpm – 7,750
note Ecalc also gives you a theoretical speed but as all motor/prop combinations gave adequate speed I didn't note that down.
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