Here is a list of all the postings Graham Bowers has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Prostate Cancer|
I was recently diagnosed with prostate cancer after presenting for a test. I had no signs or symptoms, I just thought it would be a good idea following a chat with a friend - we are both mid sixties. I've been on hormone therapy for 6 months and have just completed a course of radiotherapy.
Hopefully I've dodged a bullet, as I did have a bone scan that came back clear.
I'd encourage any men in the susceptible age range to get tested.
|Thread: NCFM Moth build advice|
Rob is very helpful, I expect he could answer your other questions.
No connection to the business other than a satisfied customer for other stuff.
By the way, lam film is sometimes called "New stuff". Its not that new any more, but is probably a useful term to use in a search phrase..
|Thread: motor upgrade help please|
Is it worth popping a new set of bearings in the original motor? I know you have a new one on the way, but you'll have a spare for next time, or another model.
In the DC wires between the battery and ESC. Measure both current through and voltage across, even if separately. I'm not convinced you will have 11.1 V at wide open throttle for long, but the numbers will tell. The 3 wires esc to motor have a chopped up waveform that a multimeter will make no sense of. Being conservative I'd not want to put much more than 30A through a budget esc.
So, is it a case of "great minds think alike", or "fools seldom differ" ?-))
Oh, and I'd probably try the 6x4 first.
That looks more like it.
Depending on what prop you use, you may end up pulling more current than stock, so careful you don't pop the esc. I know its more expense, but I really do recommend the use of a wattmeter. If you don't fancy splashing out right now, hopefully somebody in your club could let you use one. If overpropped a leccy motor will just pull more current and can cause damage to the esc.
Edited By Graham Bowers on 31/07/2016 20:04:23
I'm afraid your replacement motor has too low Kv. Off the top of my head, I'd have expected 2200Kv would be needed.
The actual prop speed is going to be about 75% of the theoretical Kv * Volts value. So at 11.1V the prop speed would be 11.1 * 1400 * 0.75 = 12000 rpm as close as makes no difference.
You don't say what make of prop you have, but APC are good props and publish good data, so a 6x4 at 12000 rpm may be expected to produce 0.7 lb of thrust but the same prop with a 2200 Kv motor (11.1 * 2200 * 0.75 = 18000 rpm) may be expected to produce almost 1.6 lb of thrust. A big difference!
It has to be said that assuming 11.1 V under load may be optimistic and the only way to really know what is happening is to use a wattmeter. These are instruments that will tell you the voltage, current and wattage under static conditions and really should be in the toolbox of every leccy flier.
I'm not sure where you read that an outrunner can't do much more than 15000 rpm but its simply not true.
Hope this helps
|Thread: SLEC building jig problem|
Definitely gas/ vapour from the substrate trapped under the film. In a past life I saw this under vinyl decals on non-metallic bodywork. The fix was to use porus vinyl for the decals to allow the gas / vapour to permeate through and escape.
Whilst we have never met, I am delighted for you both.
|Thread: Urgent and important petition - Please sign|
Signed and copied to a conservation FB group I frequent.
|Thread: Help my sanity!|
Others have mentioned ensuring the correct video modes (PAL/ NTSC) and channels are selected. All I will add is that rather than cycling through bands / channels and hoping to find a match, actively select the correct band and then cycle through the channels. The immersion VTx operates on band F, so band F channel is 5800 MHz, but band A channel 4 is 5805 MHZ, almost no separation so you'll get a pic, but not a good one.
I assume you are using the supplied antennas and I also assume that they are compatible with the VTx / VRx, but another little "gotcha" is that it is possible to have a mixup between SMA and RP-SMA antennas such that the antenna will screw on to the VTx / VRx but neither the antenna or VTx / VRx has a probe that engages with the corresponding receptacle. This probably makes no sense yet but male RP-SMA will physically fit female SMA, see pics if following link http://blog.oscarliang.net/difference-sma-rpsma-connector-antenna-fpv-copter/
I doubt that is the cause in your case, just one to remember.
|Thread: Flyable conditions Moel Famau|
I'll be in the Moel Famau area tomorrow 7th May so have been watching the forecast for the last few days. As of now, the forecast for Ruthin is WNW 7mph veering NW 8mph. Is it going to be flyable please, for an M60 for example?
|Thread: Centering the Elevator?|
A strong second for using a servo tester for initial setup - after getting one I wish I had done so years ago. If it works OK on the servo tester then you know its a Tx setup issue. I sometimes used to get weird offsets when I didn't set up the servo travel in my transmitter properly.
|Thread: Crimping Tool for servo extensions|
I too use the HK one but find if I position the connector in the tool to crimp the insulation, the platens that crimp the conductor are too short and leave a mm or so uncrimped. I just move the connector in the tool and crimp again. I'm using servo type connectors btw, some I bought from a club member and some from HK. Anybody else find this?
|Thread: What did you want to do as a kid, when you grew up, what would you chose in hindsight ?|
I wanted to go to sea, so I did as an engineer in the merchant navy. I had some enjoyable jobs in engineering shoreside afterwards and retired at 57 just over a year ago. I'm pretty happy with my choices, but if I was doing it all again I would consider law and work as a corporate lawyer in industry.
|Thread: Wing loading|
If you already have the bigger engine or if you can simulate it by adding lead wrapped around it then the practical method of shifting stuff around to maintain the CG and measure the new weight (and so wing loading) may be best, depending on the specifics of your model.
All I'll add to the above is that by knowing the weights of the engines, the weights and range of positions of the moveable bits (batteries, servos, ballast for example), the weight of the entire model and CoG location its possible to calculate if and by how much you'll need to make ballast adjustments. The biggest advantage of the calc method is that its possible to get an answer on the viability of the project before spending any money or doing much balsa bashing. It would be awful to make the mods and find out at the end the model was too heavy.
Hope this helps rather than confuses, but if you wish to proceed down the calculation method (known as taking moments) and need more info / help, just ask.
|Thread: Classic Veron Impala glider|
|Thread: APC Prop Data|
Brilliant, its back, thanks. This excellent resource disappeared for a while.
Remember, under load you only get about 80% of the theoretical (KV*V) rpm.
To prevent the release of the magic smoke, do check the actual performance with a Wattmeter. I like to verify speed with a tachometer too.
|Thread: How many of you still own/fly your first plane/Helli|
I still have my first ever engine, a DC Merlin that went into a KK skystreak 26 C/L model I built around 44 years ago, now long gone.
I also still have my first sloper, predictably an Impala and believe it or not, the box it came in. Last flew around 6 years ago but in flyable condition - that's the model, not the box
I also have the engine that was in my first R/C power model. I don't think I ever knew what the model was as it was donated by a friend, but the engine is an ME Snipe.
|Thread: Help needed|
I too believe it is probably a fuel system issue but before doing surgery I'd be tempted to do an engine test by strapping a new fuel tank to the side of the model and use new fuel tube, thus eliminating the old fuel system.
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