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Member postings for Andy Blackburn

Here is a list of all the postings Andy Blackburn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Phil Beard's F-86 Sabre Build Blog
18/08/2019 15:56:32

Try the Squadron/Signal monographs - most of them are available from amazon, there are a couple of the In Action series (#33 and #126), there an F-86 walkaround and also a "Fighting Colours" series.


Thread: Balsa skin on wing
16/08/2019 19:33:29

I think making the skin in one piece (for each section that has the same taper - so one piece for the inboard parallel section and one for the tapered outer section) is the only way to get a good finish - each wing skin can be joined and then finish-sanded flat on the bench before attaching the skin. If you try and sand it after its installed the wing, the skin will just bow inwards between the ribs and it won't be flat.

I've used PVA & stacks of magazines in the past, but now use medium CA, sticking the spar first and then using a long straight edge to roll the skin down onto the ribs by pulling the straight-edge back towards the TE whilst pressing it down to the skin, then doing the same for the LE.


Thread: Cambrian ME109 Funfighter electric build
14/08/2019 11:10:27

Ooh, nice. Will be watching this one.

Thread: X9D+ 2019 or Q X7S?
14/08/2019 08:28:24

Cautionary note: I'm not an expert! However...

  1. The X9D is based on a JR case so the ergonomics are really nice; ramp the stick tension up as far as it'll go and it feels as nice as my old JR DSX9. If possible, see if you can have a play with both Transmitters before parting with cash.
  2. Documentation is not good for those (like me) who loathe fast-forwarding through videos to get to the part that you want and then missing it. However, this manual Taranis X9D Plus OpenTX User Manual 2.2 helped a lot.


Edited By Andy Blackburn on 14/08/2019 08:29:04

Thread: Andy's F-86A Build Thread
13/08/2019 13:07:20

Thanks! The early black and white markings scheme isn't often modelled on Korean War Sabres, it's usually the later yellow bands. And most plastic kits seem to be the later models (E/F) so I thought it would make a nice change.

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 13/08/2019 13:07:52

Thread: Sciabola or Italian Sabre
13/08/2019 09:56:33

Nice colour scheme on 4-50. smiley

Thread: Andy's F-86A Build Thread
13/08/2019 09:52:20

Paypal has just informed me that my wood pack has been dispatched, so I thought I'd better get my two penn'orth in before somebody else has the same idea.

I'm planning on an F-86A; this one was the first to shoot down a MiG (Lt Col Bruce Hinton, 17 December 1950, Korea).



The A model has a much smaller fuselage bulge around the stabiliser (conventional elevators) which shouldn't be a problem, and the canopy windscreen has a V-shape, a bit like the back of a cricket bat. I'm going to have to make a new canopy plug.

Dunno what I'll cover it in yet, possibly Profilm (for reasons of speed and practicality) if I can arrange a suitably-sized bank loan.

Edited By Andy Blackburn on 13/08/2019 09:55:32

Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan
10/08/2019 12:10:16
Posted by Peter Garsden on 10/08/2019 07:22:55:


I am thinking of putting some lightening holes maybe in formers, the taiilplane, and maybe the fin. Don't want to offend our designer, but there is a lot of wood, and the JP is famous for flying in marginal conditions.

Pete - it's up to you, of course, but I think you'll be absolutely fine as long as you use some light wood - by which I mean 6-7 lb cu/ft - for most of the structure, particularly that aft of the wing. And remember that a lot of the wood gets planed and sanded away.

It'll fly differently to the smaller JP and should be more efficient, but what you don't want to end up with is something that doesn't carry momentum through manoevres.

Just my two penn'orth.


Thread: Wing section help
09/08/2019 21:53:44
Posted by Monz on 09/08/2019 21:05:11:

Busy planning the next build, a quarter scale BF109 E4, and a bit stuck on which section to use.


At 1/4 scale (!!), that's about an 8.14 ft wingspan and an average chord about 1.32 ft; that's pretty big. However, I'd be inclined to stick with a bona fide slope soaring wing section because the problem with very large models that have thick wing sections is that they're often relatively light, so often end up being a little bit slow.

If it was me I'd go for the thickest available proven PSS section (not a lot wrong with E374, but I seem to remember reading that RG15 is designed to work even when thickened up quite a lot, possibly as much as 15% but I could be mistaken), mounted at a reasonable angle on the fuselage with possibly a bit of artistic sleight of hand at the wing root. And washout, of course...



Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan
09/08/2019 09:45:01
Posted by Andy Meade on 09/08/2019 08:43:35:

No problems, I've not printed anything yet. I will either delete the battery box (it's a poor fit for LiFe cells) or modify it heavily to miss the seats and pilots. I'd like to keep the full depth detail if possible as the airframe is a decent size.

You could, should you be so inclined, make the battery box but use it purely as an assembly aid - just tack-glue the formers to it and then remove the box as soon as the sides are in place.


08/08/2019 08:43:11

(far too big, of course...) smiley

08/08/2019 08:42:46
Posted by Phil Cooke on 08/08/2019 08:13:09:


Without the drawings in front of me perhaps Andy B can confirm - this is a 1/8th scale model?

Yes, it's 1/8 scale (1.5x 1/12 scale) with minor enlargements to wing and tail areas as discussed.

07/08/2019 17:08:54
Posted by Andy Meade on 07/08/2019 16:01:39:


Surely the MTBF for the switches are 10,000's of times greater than a slope model's lifespan? I'd wager we aren't even breaking into the 100's of hours use per year.

Are they, though? If the MTBF of a hall switch is of a similar order of magnitude to an ordinary switch then there probably isn't a problem, but all I'm saying is that I've not seen any actual evidence.

07/08/2019 11:58:33
Posted by Peter Garsden on 02/08/2019 22:48:38:

Jet Provost 1.5metre Version


3 Hitec HS85mg Servos

Pete - I think you're going to need a bigger servo for the elevator unless you're running on 6 volts; the estimate on the plan is 3.2 kg/cm for the elevator, which I'd regard as an absolute minimum.

> I Halls Electronic Switch

you choice, of course, but I would encourage m'learned friend to carefully consider the mean time between failure (MTBF) of the hall-effect switch when compared to that of a purely mechanical switching device (e.g. a large toggle switch), which according to MIL Handbook 217 F is likely to be somewhere around 500,000 hours.

05/08/2019 08:59:59

There are a couple of points that I feel really should be made at this juncture;

  • It's obviously a bit big, but I can't help that; Peter was quite insistent that he wanted a bigger one, I did try and convince him that size isn't everything but he wouldn't be dissuaded.
  • I haven't built one, I've just drawn the plan. Peter is - courageously - going to do the first build.
  • Every plan I've ever drawn has had some sort of c*ck-up somewhere on the first version of either the plan, the parts or (usually) both. Obviously, the member of staff responsible is always ritually tarred and feathered but this doesn't seem to have hand any effect on the error rate.
Thread: Flair Fokker D.VII Build
19/07/2019 18:44:45
Posted by Maurice Dyer on 19/07/2019 13:42:30:

Mine was ten years in the finishing....And lozenge was valspar Matt emulsion

That does make me feel slightly better... smiley


19/07/2019 08:46:56
Posted by Gary Binnie on 18/07/2019 20:42:07:

Old thread alert! Did this model get finished?


Er... no, not as such. blush Not yet, anyway. I have acquired some lozenge-printed solartex which will be fine for sport scale, just need to find a gap in a very crowded build schedule to finish it off.


Thread: An Introduction to the PSSA 2020 Mass Build Project
13/07/2019 09:06:48
Posted by Phil Cooke on 13/07/2019 07:50:05:

Andy - I have asked Martin (as designer) to confirm for us here, but the panel lines lovingly applied by Gordon to the prototype model in the photos above would appear to accurately reflect the 4-panel slatted L/E of the earlier design.

I'll come clean and state I had never appreciated so much development had ever gone into the Sabre wing and that there were indeed 2 different plan forms!

embarrassed The shame...

Sorry, it's just that I want to do an F86A so wasn't sure how much work was involved. If it's the early slatted LE then that would be great, just leaves the chisel-profile windscreen, smaller stabiliser fairing and separate elevators, all of which looks do-able.

The only problem I forsee is that a November start will conflict with my Indoor Scale FF Nats entries for next year; I'll just have to learn how to build quicker!


P.S. - Good reference for the wings, MK1

12/07/2019 17:05:39

Phil - for the benefit of those of us who can't resist changing things and doing one of the early versions (i.e. meddling), is the design based on the later "solid" 6-3 wing with a small wing fence (which could easily have been left off to keep things simple), or is it the original wing with slats?

I suspect the latter, but would rather not make the assumption.


Edited By Andy Blackburn on 12/07/2019 17:08:27

Thread: Cambrian / Cambria Funfighter-----which to choose!
23/06/2019 15:06:37

I think the choice is probably a matter of taste, but the the Cambria kits tend to be more focused on outright speed and generally have thin wings (something similar to RG14, but somebody will no doubt correct me). The Cambrian kits generally have thicker wings (which look remarkably like Eppler E374) and the Hurricane that I have half-built (also for electric) has wings skinned in what looks like Beech veneer.

Build the one that you think looks best.

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