Here is a list of all the postings Andy Blackburn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Andy's F-86A Build Thread|
Paypal has just informed me that my wood pack has been dispatched, so I thought I'd better get my two penn'orth in before somebody else has the same idea.
I'm planning on an F-86A; this one was the first to shoot down a MiG (Lt Col Bruce Hinton, 17 December 1950, Korea).
The A model has a much smaller fuselage bulge around the stabiliser (conventional elevators) which shouldn't be a problem, and the canopy windscreen has a V-shape, a bit like the back of a cricket bat. I'm going to have to make a new canopy plug.
Dunno what I'll cover it in yet, possibly Profilm (for reasons of speed and practicality) if I can arrange a suitably-sized bank loan.
Edited By Andy Blackburn on 13/08/2019 09:55:32
|Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan|
Pete - it's up to you, of course, but I think you'll be absolutely fine as long as you use some light wood - by which I mean 6-7 lb cu/ft - for most of the structure, particularly that aft of the wing. And remember that a lot of the wood gets planed and sanded away.
It'll fly differently to the smaller JP and should be more efficient, but what you don't want to end up with is something that doesn't carry momentum through manoevres.
Just my two penn'orth.
|Thread: Wing section help|
At 1/4 scale (!!), that's about an 8.14 ft wingspan and an average chord about 1.32 ft; that's pretty big. However, I'd be inclined to stick with a bona fide slope soaring wing section because the problem with very large models that have thick wing sections is that they're often relatively light, so often end up being a little bit slow.
If it was me I'd go for the thickest available proven PSS section (not a lot wrong with E374, but I seem to remember reading that RG15 is designed to work even when thickened up quite a lot, possibly as much as 15% but I could be mistaken), mounted at a reasonable angle on the fuselage with possibly a bit of artistic sleight of hand at the wing root. And washout, of course...
|Thread: Jet Provost 1.5metre Andy Blackburn PSS Plan|
You could, should you be so inclined, make the battery box but use it purely as an assembly aid - just tack-glue the formers to it and then remove the box as soon as the sides are in place.
(far too big, of course...)
Yes, it's 1/8 scale (1.5x 1/12 scale) with minor enlargements to wing and tail areas as discussed.
Are they, though? If the MTBF of a hall switch is of a similar order of magnitude to an ordinary switch then there probably isn't a problem, but all I'm saying is that I've not seen any actual evidence.
Pete - I think you're going to need a bigger servo for the elevator unless you're running on 6 volts; the estimate on the plan is 3.2 kg/cm for the elevator, which I'd regard as an absolute minimum.
> I Halls Electronic Switch
you choice, of course, but I would encourage m'learned friend to carefully consider the mean time between failure (MTBF) of the hall-effect switch when compared to that of a purely mechanical switching device (e.g. a large toggle switch), which according to MIL Handbook 217 F is likely to be somewhere around 500,000 hours.
There are a couple of points that I feel really should be made at this juncture;
|Thread: Flair Fokker D.VII Build|
That does make me feel slightly better...
Er... no, not as such. Not yet, anyway. I have acquired some lozenge-printed solartex which will be fine for sport scale, just need to find a gap in a very crowded build schedule to finish it off.
|Thread: An Introduction to the PSSA 2020 Mass Build Project|
Sorry, it's just that I want to do an F86A so wasn't sure how much work was involved. If it's the early slatted LE then that would be great, just leaves the chisel-profile windscreen, smaller stabiliser fairing and separate elevators, all of which looks do-able.
The only problem I forsee is that a November start will conflict with my Indoor Scale FF Nats entries for next year; I'll just have to learn how to build quicker!
P.S. - Good reference for the wings, MK1
Phil - for the benefit of those of us who can't resist changing things and doing one of the early versions (i.e. meddling), is the design based on the later "solid" 6-3 wing with a small wing fence (which could easily have been left off to keep things simple), or is it the original wing with slats?
I suspect the latter, but would rather not make the assumption.
Edited By Andy Blackburn on 12/07/2019 17:08:27
|Thread: Cambrian / Cambria Funfighter-----which to choose!|
I think the choice is probably a matter of taste, but the the Cambria kits tend to be more focused on outright speed and generally have thin wings (something similar to RG14, but somebody will no doubt correct me). The Cambrian kits generally have thicker wings (which look remarkably like Eppler E374) and the Hurricane that I have half-built (also for electric) has wings skinned in what looks like Beech veneer.
Build the one that you think looks best.
|Thread: Another AB Canberra|
Firstly, I'd just like to say that no money changed hands in exchange for Scotty's glowing (but vastly exaggerated) testemonial...
My two pennorth on the finish; the problem with dope and tissue is that you can put in a lot of effort and you can get a good finish, but it's almost as susceptible to dings as film so on a slope model (when there will definitely be some rough and tumble), you have to question the effort/benefit ratio of dope and tissue.
For that reason, I'd seriously consider film or glass/acrylic or glass/epoxy over dope/tissue. If the chosen colour scheme is film-able, then (personally) that's what I'd use, and I'd have to live with the dents.
> ...very pure aerobatically, surprisingly quick and fabulously satisfying to fly.
That would be your extremely large and unwieldy 2x version? Perhaps sir might consider the plight of the poor fool who has to launch it and provide somewhere to hold it, or at least get some sort of a grip. Otherwise I fear that we may eventually find ourselves with a low-speed piloting challenge as it pops out of my hands like a damp orange-pip...
|Thread: Taranis 9 channel|
+1 for the X9D - I think it's an ex-JR case, sits very nicely in the hands, sticks are good and you can get some hall-sensor gimbals if you really feel the need to spend the money. One thing that really helped me with the programming was the Open Tx User Manual - I can't stand trying to learn stuff from videos...
|Thread: Ripmax Phase 5e|
I've got one, but when presented with a nice new shiny thing...
I've just had a look at the instructions; it looks as though it should be possible to make a new nose from balsa & ply that replaces the cowl and spinner, and is attached using new M3 bolt holes through the existing firewall, with hex-head M3 bolts screwed in from the inside of the fuselage using a ball-hex driver. Subject to seeing the kit and finding some film of the right colour, I think I might have just talked myself into that, actually...
Edited By Andy Blackburn on 09/05/2019 21:15:30
Had the same thought myself - it looks quite nice.
|Thread: CAA registration consulation|
I've written to all of the required recipients, although Baroness Vere and Richard Moriarty both got real letters sent via recorded delivery because i think that has a bit more impact.
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