Here is a list of all the postings ASH. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Repair of a Hanger 9 P-51 Mustang.|
Nice work Paul. It's always interesting to see how these kinds of repairs are done.
It is a handsome model.
Mike T, which H/D HK electrics did you have success with?
|Thread: SLEC Chipmunk build blog|
Hi Tim, I have the same Chipmunk made by Apache Aviation which I bought already built, so I'm looking forward to your build. Mine has the one piece wing.
|Thread: Classic Aerobatic Model Photo Thread|
Cheers Martin, using carbon fibre dowels and strenghtening the whole area seems the way to do it.
So, A Space must be found either side of the section removed. I had thought of 'twist & turns' on the front but it might get complicated. Anyhoo, it's a future project - model's still in it's box..
Thanks Martyn, I'm the same with my eyesight. Struggle with orientation at a distance so prefer larger wingspan models nowadays. The pink is nice, suits a pattern model.
All beautiful models. I love the classic/retros, they look sleek.. like proper aeroplanes!
I really like the Racketeer, the design and colour scheme are superb as with the Mama Mia. What green is that Jamie? And the Dusty Pink film Martyn?
I have a semi-scale Seagull Piper Comanche with heavy oleos which I would like to replace with electric retracts. My main concern is with the nose retract. The front wheel obviously has to fit into a section of the wing.
So I take it a cut out is made in the leading edge of wing? How then is the front of the wing held on to fuselage without dowels? And does this not weaken the structure to aerobatic stresses?
How did you do it on your Flea Fli Martin?
Edited By ASH. on 05/09/2019 19:26:14
|Thread: Powered by Laser, a gallery thread|
Thanks for sharing Jon, they really do look the part. Excellent pictures.
Never heard of the Avia FL3 before. Any specs on the model?
Edited By ASH. on 29/08/2019 17:05:09
|Thread: New Poll - sticky situations.....|
i hate the stuff, but have to use it for mylar hinges.
I always keep debonder close by, just in case.
|Thread: Broken servo arm screw|
This is an interesting thread.. I have a few high torque metal gear Futaba which I'll be utilising in the near future. Never thought of using any locktight. I suppose for petrol engine models it's important. I will use PTFE plumbers tape, which is what I use on all manifold and silencer threads. It works perfectly.
I'm sure you'll get there Don, just persevere. Dismantling the servo as suggested may be the answer.
|Thread: Seagull Super Chipmunk ARTF|
Keith, on the PT19 you could try looping a longer carb line over the engine mount and then down and up to the inlet nipple, (securing with tie-wraps). It's worked for me. I do it on all installs. It's a fallacy to believe the carb line has to be short and direct as possible.
You could also reduce tail weight on the Chipmunk by replacing the 2mm long heavy metal push rods with 2M carbon tubes with couplers and ball joints..
Edited By ASH. on 19/08/2019 16:14:41
|Thread: How to Straighten Horizontal Stabilizer?|
Cheers Pat, that's some serious surgery you're talking about!.. I'll think on that. I'm trying to visualize the '..loose rectangle of wood'.
The whole joint is weak both sides, maybe the film wasn't even removed. The instructions say to only screw the tailplane on.
Edited By ASH. on 05/08/2019 23:43:05
Cheers Bob, I know you're a master model maker.. Glad to know it's been done before.
It's funny, I've never had a problem before buying used models. Usually it's minor work to do, re-plumb fuel lines, strenghten in places etc etc. Wings have always been square!
I bought the Calamato outdoors, checked everything else but didn't think of attaching the wing and viewing. Never mind. Apart from this it's a cracking model. It has a SC61 up front, may run it for a few flights just to hear it scream - it's been a long while, then replace with a nice 91 4st. Just don't want to risk a dead stick with the 2st. Thinking of putting an intelligent onboard glow on to avoid that. What do you think?
Taking your suggestions on board Bob, I will make the necessary cuts and do the job properly. I was thinking of making it an anhedral tail like the classic pattern planes
PS. doesn't look like it has an elevator joiner. the rudder definitely doesn't have enough movement for knife-edge loops etc.
Edited By ASH. on 05/08/2019 23:28:03
The stab is slotted in from the rear a third of the way up. It is meant to be secured by two screws underneath which were not used. Only a small triangular section in front of the stab has the film removed so I presume it's glued there too and slots in somewhere. The fin comes fixed to the fuse. The underneath of the fuse is sheeted so not really keen on opening it up there unless I have to. The stab is out about 2cm at the tips - very noticeable.
What do you think about triangular stock underneath for support - bit naff? An alternative is bracing rods if there is anywhere secure to fix them.
The model is the Kyosho Calamato 60, the older version. I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow.
Edited By ASH. on 05/08/2019 22:30:22
Thanks Andy, Alex. Unfortunately it's out by quite a lot. The left side needs lifting so was thinking of sawing underneath that wing half and perhaps wedging a thin strip of ply there and see if that makes much difference. Very fiddly! Otherwise I'll have to cut it all out and realign. A fine hacksaw blade is the answer.
I am so particular on getting everything squared and lined up whenever I've put together a model. It's a basic. Now I find myself having to fix someone else's handiwork. It has to be done I can't live with it as it is. The model has a beautiful long tail moment and so deserves it.
Just bought a low wing sports model and realized the tail plane is seriously out of line and not parallel with the wing. It is also very flimsy. I want to cut it out and fix it squarely and securely. The glue used is yellow so I presume Araldite or something similar
Has anyone attempted this and how easy is it to do?
I just don't want to start hacking away and make a mess of it all. I was also thinking of using triangular stock underneath for more support.
Your thoughts and opinions appreciated.
|Thread: Online magazine viewer problems|
I feel exactly the same as Gordon the OP. This was brought up back in February and nothing has been done so far.
Can we please have the previous viewer back pronto.
"if it's not broke don't fix it".
|Thread: SIG Kadet LT-40 Build - My first proper build!|
My thoughts on this.. If you are building from scratch then it's going to be a 'keeper' so why not have all the 'bells &whistles' in place now to use later. Your first model is like your first love..! Never forgotten and ways thought of fondly...
Hi Nu Me, I would always go with separate servos for ailerons trainer or not. Many advantages, you can use them as flaperons (both ailerons down) or better still - spoilerons (airbrake, both slightly up). It's more fun to fly slow and low as you progress. Also, you can just glide, my 3kg high winger can stand still in a stiff breeze engine on idle. So much fun. Also, you can programme in differential if you want.
It shouldn't be difficult for you at all with your skills. Just position them correctly.
Ps. Going off piste can be quite dangerous.. but not in this case.. 🙂
Edited By ASH. on 23/07/2019 14:10:27
|Thread: Slec/Apache Chipmunk kit advice.|
My Apache Chipmunk has a one piece wing and I can just about shoehorn it in into my saloon car, The fuselage is quite large too but it all fits in okay.
I was just thinking - perhaps when Tim gets his Chippy made,(which shouldn't take too long knowing his build speed) we could all get together for 3 ship (or more) formation flying! It would be spectacular seeing a number of fifth scale Chipmunks all flying together at scale speed. And who knows maybe we could put on a display at W&W's..And have Slec sponsor us
David, what servos' are you using in yours, and what engine?
|Thread: SIG Kadet LT-40 Build - My first proper build!|
There's a certain way to carry fuselages indoors - tail first!
Edited By ASH. on 20/07/2019 13:45:58
Transparent Yellow would look gorgeous, with a hint of brown or green trim for the vintage look..
I prefer No11 blades.
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