Here is a list of all the postings Bill Brownlie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How do you hold those Tx sticks?|
May the 4th be with you all,
I started off with thumbs on fixed wing and found it OK but totally useless when I moved on to try helis a couple of years later. Had to re-learn with my fingers. Using fingers also means using a neck strap for me.
|Thread: Harmon rocket|
Not done much for a couple of weeks, been away working. But just before I did I had a few flights with the HR and spoke to one of the club gurus about the loops. I was trying to fly them too slow. A bit more speed on the way up and it was rock steady, throttle off at the top and she floats round into big circles. Really beginning to enjoy flying her.
Its always blowing like the clapper where I fly. Its on a moor at the edge of a range of hills and the wind is always up even when its a summer breeze every where else.
I damage the U/C plate and the very thin(1mm) ply bulk head just behind it where the front of the wing slots in on a dead stick landing just after take off on the second flight. I've rebuilt it 3 times now. First two times I tried to keep it as light as the original set up,just stuck some fillets behind the plate, but the U/C just came off on landing. I've fixed it again and it won't come off this time. I reduced the U/C width and fitted a 3mm overlay onto the former. If I crash it again the U/C and the bulk head will be the last men standing. Still to touch up the covering and its ready to go.
No problems with flying it it handles realy well and floats in. If anything its getting it down is the problem especially with the wind recently, almost lands vertically like the Wot 4s up here.
I've been flying the HR quite a lot recently as I'm still having problems with the renegade, another story.
I'm realy comfortable with the HR now. Took some weight off the tail and kept the negative aileron setting. Still bring it in quicker than the floaters (Wot4, etc) but had no problems with it, it flys fast and sounds great with the OS. I'm practicing for my Silver Certificate (Scottish equivelent of the "B" but much harder) and I find the HR not so good at precision Loops. Need to fly it too fast to get a decent Loop without it wandering. At least I need to fly it fast!!!!
|Thread: RCM&E 2010 Hobby Awards|
1 BRC Hobbies
3 Seagull Edge 540(Any of them)
|Thread: Harmon rocket|
mmm??? I've just read a couple of other threads which say the same as you.
I've just finished a blackhorse renegade that I bought recently while waiting for the glue to dry on the HR repairs. After building it up I checked the CofG and was laying strip after strip of Lead on the nose to get back to the recommended position. I was at the bottom end of the engine size(46) and expected to add some weight to the nose but not this much. So I went back to a calculator I have and did the sums which came out at 25mm further back than the recommended position in the manual. This took the majority of the weight off and I've only had to add about 75gms.
Been thinking about the HR I have an OS55 up front and have added some weight to the tail to counter-balance. I think I'll re-calculate the CofG tonight. Could be I'm flying her tail heavy
Got one of these for Christmas. Flew it 3 times now, crashed it twice. It drops a wing like nothing else I've flown. Had to bring it in very fast then remembered the old article about turning the ailerons up a notch. As I had them on separate channels this ment setting some negative flap in to the normal position to raise th ailerons up about 1.5mm. This has the effect similar to wash out and was very effective.
After my initial distrust and growing dislike I'm now warming to it again although I don't find it the easiest aerobatic plane to fly. It is very fast and has a tendancy to need a lot of rudder control (short fuselage), nice to look at though.
|Thread: The 2010 Photographic Competition|
Some Photos from Penicuik Club 2009
|Thread: Are we an ageing hobby?|
1 Age 58
2 IC Sport, IC Scale, IC Aerobatics, Electric Sport, Electric Scale, Slope, Heli Electric, and Heli IC
3 Started 4 years ago at 55. Always been involved in aviation but first flew my Ripmax 40 Trainer 4 seasons ago. Still getting the hang of things, Built plenty of ARTF, a couple of Wot 4s and into my 2 year on a Flair Harvard Kit that I keep starting and stopping
|Thread: The 2009 RCM&E & Modelflying.co.uk awards|
|1.Best High St Retailer Marionville Models, Edinburgh
2.Best Mail order Midland Helicopters
3.Best Distributor Ripmax, especially their Futaba repair team
4.Best Kit Seagull - Edge 540
|Thread: ARTF quality|
Here's a novel idea. Why don't we use the consumer protection legislation that every one else uses. If the goods are not fit for purpose then return them.
I've been flying now for about 3 years. the first ARTF I bought after my trainer could not go above half throttle without the tail end trying to shake itself to bits. Among the club everyone agreed that I needed to cut out the tail, strip the covering, fit more basla or sheet with single ply etc to sort it out. I suggested I just take it back to the shop and get my money back which seemed to horrify most of my fellow members who were used to dealing with such poor quality themselves.
I took it back and after arguing with the shop owner who recognised the tail problem but couldn't follow the logic that it was his responsibility and not mine to sort it out. I suggested to him that he returned it to the distributor but he was very reluctant to "upset them". He did give me a refund and promtly stuck the model in the window as "second hand, needs some work". I often wonder if I should have bought it back at the reduced price and fixed it up. But then lifes two short to consider all decisions again and I think I would have been pushing my luck with the owner who has been really helpful ever since..
|Thread: Side and Downthrust|
I've been flying now for about 2 years. I've flown various ARTFs and never worried about thrust lines, assuming as you say that they are built in where necessary.
I'm now starting to practicing for my SIlver and finding difficultiy with loops that slightly cork screw. I'm now looking into all the balancing issues with my current model and wondering how you actually measure the thrust angles accurately.
Anybody got a method for setting up a datum line on the plane and also what you use as a clear reference on the engine to get the measurements accurately.
|Thread: The November Grand Prize Draw|
Don't Pick ME
Or if the reverse Psycology doesn't work then do pick me.
|Thread: Win a brushless motor and ESC|
|One more attempt to convince me to try electric?????|
|Thread: New Wot Trainer|
I was getting some flutter from the tail when pulling out of loops. Put it down to soft balsa in the tail which was very flexible. I sheeted the tail with a single ply sheet on the bottom. THis added enough weight to allow me to take the lead off the tail and it balanced nicely. Have now flown it for some time and its great fun. As you say it floats on for every. I had a dead stick with it last night and it glided ages right back to the field with no problems.
Really pleased with it now after fixing all the problems. Other guys in my club have sent theirs back as they were unhappy with the quality and strength of the wood.
|Thread: The September Grand Prize Draw|
Put me in the Draw please
|Thread: The August Grand Prize Draw|
|Count me in|
|Thread: Measuring motor output|
Good to see some real numbers around the electric motor mystery. Why can't manufacturers produce these numbers in Watts or BHP to give us a chance of figuring out the power we will get from them.
One slight comment, I notice you are measuring the dc input to the ESC which is not really the electrical power input to the motor. So the eficiencies you quote are for the Motor/ESC combined. You would need to measure the 3-phase input to the motor to get its power in figure.
|Thread: The July Grand Prize Draw|
Ta muchy for the free draw. Put me in
|Count me in|
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