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Member postings for Mike T

Here is a list of all the postings Mike T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Full-Size Lancaster at Woodsprings today
15/07/2019 00:13:55

The crowd on Saturday got 4 passes! (I thought any more than 2 made it a 'display'?)

The big Cubs were superbly flown and in very close proximity. I couldn't take my eyes off them (mainly in case debris started coming my way).

The Bishop's Reds display was superb too, notwithstanding an u/c failure on their first outing.

Thread: Droning on at the F1...
15/07/2019 00:07:05

"Northamptonshire Police officers and drone specialists from Northamptonshire Fire and Rescue Service detected the devices earlier today, Saturday, July 13, using drone detection and pilot detection software...

Policing commander for the event, Superintendent Dennis Murray, said: “The specialist software has so far proved extremely effective. We have been able to detect the drones and locate the pilots..."

Excellent news. The technology now appears to exist for stopping illegal drone flights, so the rationale for requiring registration or testing has just disappeared. I hope this is brought to the Select Committee's attention!

Thread: Local club attendance
02/07/2019 01:12:05

We have 20 members and we've been at our current field for nearly three years. I'd consider the facilities pretty good. The most cars I've seen there is 7. I'd prefer more members to turn up as my main concern is that regular non-attendees may eventually decide it's not worth it and leave, which would really screw our finances.

I'm seriously considering some kidology and putting the word about that we're restricting our numbers and starting a waiting list for new members. The lure of exclusivity!

Thread: Thunder Tiger GP42
02/07/2019 00:46:25
Posted by Richard Acland on 01/07/2019 23:12:11:

... is this a reliable engine

I have one in my favourite hack, a Precedent Funfly. It's over 20 years old...

Thread: Spinners for brushless.
23/06/2019 14:17:22

Due to the need to accommodate backward nations still using the 'imperial' system, there is confusion over the conversion used to get from 1/8" (a common 'imperial' shaft size) to metric, which is either 3.17mm or 3.2mm, depending on how accurate your manufacturer feels...

The problem with 3.17/3.2mm shafts is that you can never guarantee what you are getting. Some sellers will advertise a "3.2" but you actually get a 3.17 and vikky verky.

The easiest way around this is to use motors with at least a 4mm shaft. DYS are usually good for oversized shafts, size for size. 4mm is unambiguous and I've never failed to get a good fit, either with the collet or grub screw type of adaptor or spinner.

One thing to beware of with collet-type spinners is the collet adaptor itself. On some, the threaded portion for the prop nut overlaps the shaft hole, leaving perilously little metal holding the whole caboodle together. Hobbyking do a superb pointy spinner, ideal for the Skystreak, which is ruined by this defect...

Thread: Elevator joiner wire plastic tube bearing
19/06/2019 02:23:54

Spot on...

18/06/2019 19:32:33
Posted by Gary Murphy 1 on 18/06/2019 15:28:43:

... The elevators are shown with a 1mm gap at hinge (too much/little?) The plastic tube moves along the wire freely bearly touching the tail. The filler block will push up to the tail leaving no gap. Should I go and glue OR cut the plastic tube away and use the Vaseline tip?

Lastly is 1mm gaps at hinges enough to allow be fore covering,never got this far before?

Look at your plan. It shows the joiner wire inset into the elevator LE. The Nylon bearing tube is likewise inset into the 50mm balsa cover piece. Follow this and you should end up with a gap the width of the wall-thickness of the nylon tube, but hey, this is balsa we're working with!

Cut all your grooves/holes/hinge slots to get a nice fit. THEN cover and then fettle it all to fit nicely before gluing.

(BTW, I agree with Peter re supporting a joiner of any significant length)

Thread: CofG
14/06/2019 13:46:12

Sounds a tad nose-heavy to me, but clearly nothing to worry about. I'd much prefer that to a 'galloping gertie' rearward CG. You could try moving the batt. back a bit. I'd be looking for a steady non-rollercoaster descent.

IMO you can only live with a marginal CG if your elevator set-up, from the servo gears to the hinges, is completely free from play or backlash. This ensures precise return to the trimmed setting when the control is centralised (accurate gimbals on the tx are vital too). And most setups aren't like this...

Thread: Junior 60
13/06/2019 15:50:58

Mine has an OS40FS. I re-engined with this after giving up on the Speed 600 + gearbox! I fly mine "conventionally", i.e. its repertoire includes loops and rolls, even rolling circles (if the sometimes fractious engine is going really well...)


j60 (3).jpg

(wish you could still get those Bolly Clubman props...)

Thread: Hammer F3 build (another another) - glider newbie
01/06/2019 14:34:17

Part 2!

The original importer of the Blejzyk kits (Rob from Flying Dog - now no longer about) insisted that the short, kit-provided box and bar was adequate. I just went a little bit further, to be sure...

If you manage to bend the vertical bar in this, then you're right, I reckon you have a write-off. To use an old aviation expression, "damage would be confined to the entire airframe"...

01/06/2019 14:29:07
Posted by MikeQ on 29/04/2019 07:07:51:

Hello Mike

hows that work then? Are your two boxes 'straight across' ... as in, no dihedral between the actual boxes sitting inside the wing panels and hence no chamfering of the blade required. If so that would force the boxes 'higher up' in the slots, at the panel roots, given the dihedral of the actual panels? Otherwise you'd have to chamfer both sides of blade, which would leave empty spaces in the boxes so to speak.

I was wondering, with the way the instructions are, what happens if you end up bending the blade what with it being glued into the wing? But I guess if you get to that point the wings would probably be a write off anyway?



Edited By MikeQ on 29/04/2019 07:09:04

Edited By MikeQ on 29/04/2019 07:09:51

Edited By MikeQ on 29/04/2019 07:10:59

Sorry Mike - I've only spotted your question just now!

There is enough slack in the wing cavities to put the wing joiners in and still allow for a little 'cosmetic' dihedral.

IIRC, I cut the brass box to length (much longer than suggested in the instructions!), plugged the ends then epoxied it into both wings at the same time - not too much adhesive at this stage - just enough to hold everything in place. Leave a 5mm gap between the wing roots. When well set, hacksaw through the joiner box to separate the two wings. You can then put the wings on their tips and dribble epoxy into the voids around the joiner boxes - a heat gun helps. When that is done you can cut a well-fitting slot in the ply wing root ribs and epoxy these on. When that is done the ribs can be trimmed to profile and the edges of the joiner boxes filed/sanded flush. (NB - this assumes you've installed the wing bolt blocks first!). Then you can cut/fit the carbon incidence pegs (missing from my kit too!)



Thread: Mount for an older small brushless bell motor
01/06/2019 12:57:47

8mm motor mount - Robotbirds

...lots of others listed...

Edited By Mike T on 01/06/2019 12:58:25

Thread: Warning X8R RX - do not use with CDI on IC powered 'planes
30/04/2019 18:04:04

I'm a long term fan of FrSky, being an 'early adopter' from the time when Rob Carpenter (aka 'Giant Cod' ) first brought them in to the UK.

IMO, bringing out a new range to cover defects in an existing product (which they then continue to sell) is an appalling way to treat your customer base, when the very least they should do is offer cost-free no-quibble swap outs for the defective products via a model media wide recall campaign.


Edited By Mike T on 30/04/2019 18:04:45

Thread: Hammer F3 build (another another) - glider newbie
28/04/2019 22:22:57

The joiner boxes are quite loose to make it easy to get the adhesive in and to cancel out any alignment errors when you bring the wings together while the epoxy is setting.

FWIW I baulked at the limited length of the wing joiner and got a length of Graupner 'blade-in-box' joiner from Gliders. Both my wings have the brass box!

Thread: U/C fixing
26/04/2019 10:14:20
Posted by Allan Bennett on 25/04/2019 20:50:55:

A friend of mine at the flying club used that solution, but the trouble is the nylon bolts keep breaking almost every landing. He wants to use larger diameter nylon bolts, but the captive nuts are inaccessible so he can't change them until the bottom plate comes off again.

An old friend had a Wot4 with the u/c bolted this way. A less than perfect landing was accompanied by a sharp 'click' followed by many expletives.

Proper nylon bolts will snap near the head as Don says and I'm convinced that coloured ones are worse due to being adulterated by the pigment, so I always use the 'natural' (off-white) type.

You could try using the bolts made by SLEC, which seem more flexible. I'm pretty sure these are polythene or polypropylene.

Thread: Wash out
26/04/2019 09:49:52

Agree with all the comments about DB's design - stick to it!

If the wing has 'relaxed' after unpinning, don't worry - some washout is still there. Just make sure that the other panel relaxes the same amount. If it's a bit out, don't worry, this can be corrected at the covering stage, using heat if you are covering with film/'tex, or dope if you are going Trad. Brit.

Thread: Holding screws in
26/04/2019 09:43:39
Posted by Tony j on 25/04/2019 20:23:42:

Hello Mike

thank you for your reply I am using metal screws through a wooden side screwing into a steel captive nut

Kind Regards

Tony J

If you are 'only' holding a canopy on, then without mucking about with your installation too much, the best I can suggest is that you replace the steel screws with nylon ones. You might have to try several (or several brands) to find ones which grip nicely in the captive nut threads throughout the length of their travel. (Hope that makes sense!)

PS - if nylon screws don't work, try nylon bolts...

25/04/2019 13:04:31

It's an obvious question (so obvious in fact that nobody has yet thought to ask it), but what material are you trying to fix into? I think I'd need to know that before offering any advice on stopping a screw from working out of it...

Thread: Where's all the stock?
25/04/2019 12:41:23

If any retailer is sitting on £50k worth of stock that nobody wants to buy, then I respectfully suggest they are holding the wrong stock!

I find it particularly annoying to google an item that I want only to find 'out of stock' when I click on the link. The OP is right - many UK sites have whole categories showing 'no stock'! It doesn't win them any friends!

Edited By Mike T on 25/04/2019 12:41:40

Thread: Beware - Scammers
25/04/2019 12:35:11
Posted by Peter Miller on 25/04/2019 08:59:53:

...You do this and then six moneths later the bank says "It was a forgery" and they take all the money back from you.

Someone tried this one on me many,many years ago....

<<sigh>> Not this old bunkum again! cheeky

As I've said before, times have changed, the law has moved on.

Google UK cheque clearing cycle. In short, after 6 working days, the money is yours, it can't be taken back (unless it is proved that you were party to the scam). NB this applies to the UK only; the law is probably (in)different in less civilised parts!

See this link to the org. responsible for this process in the UK: Bankers Drafts

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