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Member postings for Mike T

Here is a list of all the postings Mike T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What size to print plans without a scale tab
21/06/2020 13:37:17

In my experience, unless you are very unlucky, the plan will print out to the correct size when printed at "100%".

Open up the pdf on your computer and set the view to 100%. On your screen, it may not be 100% exactly when measured with a ruler (on mine, the display is a little undersize and needs to be set to about 103% to measure correctly).

However, if you print a section of the plan at 100% in your print settings, your printer should produce it accurately on paper at exactly 100%. If you print a section with known dimensions (wheels, spinner as Stuart suggests) then you can test your plan for dimensional accuracy and either tile-print it yourself or send it to your commercial print shop with confidence.

Edited By Mike T on 21/06/2020 13:44:20

Thread: what control horn
17/06/2020 13:11:08
Posted by Andrew Cousins on 16/06/2020 14:21:17:

Thanks guys very helpful so far. I have just read on the plan ( a different sheet to the wing build) the plan states that the aileron throws are 1 1/2 inch up and 1 inch down. So as i under stand it offsetting the pivot point back (towards the T/E of the aileron) might actually help my situation?

Nope! With your servo arm zeroed (equal arc either way) you will get more down than up which is a BAD THING. If you do as others suggest and offset the servo arm (towards the wing L/E), you will compensate for this BUT to get the actual differential you want you will have to move the arm further forward again, which is going to get messy, ugly and mechanically inefficient. Get the geometry right in the first place and you'll be fine.

I'm glad there are swept forward horns available, but ask yourself - do you want placky tacky horns on your nice 1/4-scaler? smiley

Thread: Saito exhaust
17/06/2020 12:46:37

John - thanks for the info/advice. I did a search after I posted and a lot of Slimlines popped up - but as you say, at a price!

I think first order of business will be to get mine running on the bench to see how bad the problem (if any) is likely to be. The muffler is a 'massy' affair and the obvious solution wuld be to decouple this from the engine - but even flexi-pipes are very expensive!

BTW - I notice that McGregor/Hobbyplastic sell a Saito header pipe with a flange type fitting intended for a pipe, presumably designed to overcome these problems...

Thread: what control horn
16/06/2020 13:52:11

You need a horn that is angled forward of its mounting plate, but I'm not aware of any commercial types being available.

As I usually top hinge ailerons, I frequently have to mount a horn well behind the pivot point axis, so I make my own. Cut a suitable horn from 2-3mm paxolin or fibreglass board and slot the ply plate to glue this into. I usually size the 'glued-in' bit so it ends up flush with the top surface of the aileron, to give maximum gluing area.

The lever part of the horn is angled forward so that a clevis hole drilled in its end lines up with the pivot axis. (If you use copper-clad board, like me, you can solder a small washer on to pack-out the area that the clevis pin goes through.)

PS - what Peter says is right, of course, but my solution addresses your point about keeping the clevis pivot point and the hinge axis in line...

 

Edited By Mike T on 16/06/2020 14:00:15

Thread: Saito exhaust
16/06/2020 13:05:29

Oh dear! My latest build (an old ARTC 'Nuttn Special' kit) is going to be fitted with a Saito 125 bought specifically for the purpose frown. Still, forewarned is forearmed I suppose!

@John S - can you recall what make model your Pitts muffler was and who you got it from?

Thread: Minor irritation
16/06/2020 02:17:41

Thanks for the input chaps! I must admit I thought my adblocker was disabled for this site, as I always see the ads on the right hand side bar - which I have no problem with as I want to support the site!

Switching my adblocker (uBlock Origin) off revealed the FMS banner and corrected the layout (thanks John and Denis!)

PS - FMS may be a bit miffed if their ad is the only casualty of ad blockers...

Edited By Mike T on 16/06/2020 02:18:48

Thread: cable tidy
15/06/2020 14:45:43

Or there's this, as an alternative:

expanding sleeve

Thread: Minor irritation
15/06/2020 14:34:15

Why does this happen?

cockup1.jpg

cockup2.jpg

1st pic is Firefox, 2nd is Chrome.

Is it my settings, or yours?

Edited By Mike T on 15/06/2020 14:35:11

Thread: Need a new fuel pump (glow fuel)
13/06/2020 18:32:08

I've never had a joy with electric pumps - they either leaked and/or failed.

For many years I used a (well-rinsed) swarfega dispenser pump mounted in the cap of my fuel canister. When that eventually failed (plastic fatigue) I replaced it with a longer-stroke equivalent from a food dispenser supplier on ebay. Delivers 30cc per stroke.

Thread: Boulton & Paul Defiant
26/05/2020 16:54:58
Posted by Cuban8 on 26/05/2020 16:38:29:

IBy the way Mal MvR = Red Baron - Manfred von Richthofen.

Yup! His unfavourable opinion of the Brisfit after his Jasta's first (successful) encounter with them led German pilots to believe they were easy meat - and they suffered badly as a result, after the Brisfit crews learned how to properly exploit its performance.

When I was a kid my favourite WW2 fighter was the Defiant. I was most indignant when told they were not very good! Had sufficient fighters been available to provide cover for them, their effect on the German bomber formations could have been devastating.

26/05/2020 15:51:50

The performance with the early 1030hp Merlin was marginal with the turret - additional forward firing guns would have been out of the question. If the Griffon had been available in 1939...

It's ironic that the design philosophy that the pilot positioned the a/c to give the gunner his best shot is the same doctrine that prevailed for 2-seaters in WW1 until the advent of the Bristol Fighter, which the turret-fighter concept was intended to emulate and update. The Brisfit's early sorties saw it being mauled (and condemned as useless by MvR) until it was realised that it should be flown like a fighter with the gunner taking his chances!

Thread: Ben Buckle kits.
26/05/2020 12:29:20

I'm sure a couple of degrees either side won't do any harm. Good luck with the rest of the build! smiley

24/05/2020 15:04:40

The advice on your plan seems to me to be singularly unhelpful, as the 'tip' of the wing is at the 1/3 chord point, just aft of the main spars! If you pack it there, you don't get washout, you get dihedral...

In the absence of any better guidance, I'd suggest packing the TE at the last rib before the tip, but I don't understand why Buckle's version requires it while 5 others of varying sizes, don't!

Thread: Unrecognisable ARTFs - new paint jobs!
24/05/2020 14:42:13

@kiwikid - I love the "Luft '46" fantasy wing, and the AW35 looky-likey!

I was gobsmacked when I saw the opening pics in this thread. I've posted these on another thread, but they seem more suited here:

Skipper1.jpg

Skipper2.jpg

Thread: Ben Buckle kits.
23/05/2020 16:54:56

None of the (5) Playboy senior plans on Outerzone mention the need for washout.

Does the BB plan indicate exactly where this 1/2" should be measured from? The outer panel trailing edge, from the polyhedral break to the tip is almost entirely curved, so at what point would you pack up your 1/2" !?

It would make more sense to pack the inner panel TE - except that no other plan asks for washout anywhere...

Thread: Map of RC UK suppliers
19/05/2020 18:43:57

Thank you for that, Mike H!

I've bookmarked your website/page now - you have a fantastic resource there!

19/05/2020 14:24:32

Is there an up-to-date working link to this map?

Thread: Sopwith Pup refurb
16/05/2020 16:57:40

You'd have to be a real rivet (or stitch) counter to worry about it, but IIRC, on the full size (and not just Pups) the stitch spacing is closer on the ribs which are in the wash of the prop. I.e. the first half-dozen or so out from the fus. Can't remember where I read this, sorry...

Thread: Looking for fine control snakes
16/05/2020 16:50:58

PTFE tube. Select small dia. steel, stainless steel or carbon rods to suit. As used on DLGs:

PTFE Tube

Thread: How to smooth the glue lines between balsa sheeting?
13/05/2020 14:30:57
Posted by Allan Bennett on 10/05/2020 20:58:38:
Mike T, ensuring no glue anywhere near the surface is, for me, easier said than done. If my planks/strips are a nice close fit then whatever glue I use will wick up, or be squeezed up, to the surface. How do you prevent that? The best I can do (and do do) is to wipe off the surplus immediately.

The last time I planked, I ensured that the edge of each plank was a good fit to its neighbour, then glued it only to the underlying formers. However, I did it this way because I intended to glass cloth over the top, knowing the resin would join the planks as part of the process. If you are using thin (say 1/16" ) planks, then I agree it will be difficult to avoid the glue creeping up, but giving it your best shot should minimise the problem.

Re aliphatics - I'm using Titebond which is relatively thick and while it is easy to wipe off obvious surpluses, still leaves a fine coating, hence my earlier comment. If you use the very thin Deluxe Materials stuff, then I agree it sands well, but I find that it tends to bead up on the surface when being applied and needs encouragement with a finger or brush to flow.

I reiterate though, unless you are using very hard timber (which is unlikely if you are planking), then any suitable glue is going to be harder than it, so it's best kep from your top surface as much as possible.

 

Edited By Mike T on 13/05/2020 14:32:24

Edited By Mike T on 13/05/2020 14:32:58

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